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overlandflyer posted:
Greg J. Turinetti posted:
..

More boxes!

And these boxes still had the numbers of their contents stamped on them.

R? ... red?

i've got the "short" line version ...

Flyer pass 3141

Flyer pass 3142

 

Yes,

The R designates red.  As you probably know you have the 3140 and the 3141. I can't make out in your photo if the cars are numbered. They are in remarkable condition.    I don't  have any that nice in my collection, and I tend to shy away from the 4 wheel cars.  My collection would be huge if I decided to collect the 4 wheel variations too.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Greg J. Turinetti posted:
overlandflyer posted:

R? ... red?

i've got the "short" line version ...

Flyer pass 3141

Flyer pass 3142

Yes,

The R designates red.  As you probably know you have the 3140 and the 3141. I can't make out in your photo if the cars are numbered. They are in remarkable condition.    I don't  have any that nice in my collection, and I tend to shy away from the 4 wheel cars.  My collection would be huge if I decided to collect the 4 wheel variations too.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

the silver on red doesn't show up too well, does it.  the coach is 3141 and the obsv is 3142 actually.  i have a few 4 axle cars, but i prefer the 4=wheel versions.  even though prewar Flyer is far from any "scale" size, i have the same strategy about space conservation.... especially when i figure in Marx and Hafner, too!!

glad you posted the "automatic coupler" picture.  i think i heard that the curly-Q couplers weren't called that in the 30's, but i wasn't sure if "automatic" referred to that one or the later link/ pin.  the catalog pictures do not really indicate much.

53E2FFE3-7200-4934-8FC7-68C86830D1C4715DDF3C-5CF9-4CE5-B3B2-F6586D1064CBA3706B5B-7925-4C0E-9214-352808525CFA4C787134-FB4E-4A2F-9701-9F2F1CC5EFB6DAEFF21F-9AB2-48BD-94BF-4FEC08B29540

Hello. Something new that I didn’t know I needed until I saw it. Question is, if anyone out there has one, how does one get inside of it to change the bulbs if / when that is ever needed? Luckily, I only had to tinker with the top one. The cap comes off to access the top bulb, but no clue how to get to the middle and bottom layer.

Happy Easter / Passover! - Chris

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PhillyChris posted:

53E2FFE3-7200-4934-8FC7-68C86830D1C4715DDF3C-5CF9-4CE5-B3B2-F6586D1064CBA3706B5B-7925-4C0E-9214-352808525CFA4C787134-FB4E-4A2F-9701-9F2F1CC5EFB6DAEFF21F-9AB2-48BD-94BF-4FEC08B29540

Hello. Something new that I didn’t know I needed until I saw it. Question is, if anyone out there has one, how does one get inside of it to change the bulbs if / when that is ever needed? Luckily, I only had to tinker with the top one. The cap comes off to access the top bulb, but no clue how to get to the middle and bottom layer.

Happy Easter / Passover! - Chris

Well now you did it. I need one too! Who knew?

George

Robert S. Butler posted:

Here's another one of those uncatalogued American Flyer sets from the 1930's.  The set box number is 376X.  The cataloged set (and this listed only in the 1931 dealers price list) that is the closest match is the #909 Express Electric set.

Set #909 - Express Electric - Illustrated in the Dealer supplement for 1931

909_Express_1931

 

Set #376X

1930_31_AF_Set_376X

  The difference between the two is the engine heading the set.  #909 has AF #1090 which looks identical to #1097 but, carries the number 1090 and instead of the words "American Flyer" on the emblem in the upper center of the cab side has "Empire Express". 

Here are a couple more uncataloged sets with 1090/1097 engines

NWL

Hi Fellow Tinplaters. Happy Easter or Passover all.

Finally...This is the best part of my day after a $1,500 car bill. I convert that in my head to 2.5 prewar switchers, which then really aggravates me! Serenity now as George Costanza's father would say! 

Here is one of my prewar #228's with a Dorfan boxcar. 

IMG_1132 [1)

Tom

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Thank You @Arne  Fischer is certainly the one of the brands I was considering it could be , but with your research you seem to have hit the nail on the head Until it is in my hands I wont be able to truly check but it really does look like there is no actual "fish" trademark above the Made in Germany, so I wonder if Fischer was doing a "plain Jane " version for a UK distributor perhaps ... So frustrating when they do that !

I have to admit these weekend threads are my favourite across the entire interwebs .. Such GORGEOUS and diverse stuff just keeps appearing every week .... Sigh.. if I see another Issmayer my head might just explode with envy !!!

Just something about the cartoony yet historical appearance that makes me want one so badly

 

Some European-flavor O Gauge fun. After some repair work Saturday I got both my Ikaria tram and the Zeuke electric locomotive running. The Ikaria tram was made in Brno, Czechoslovakia, early 1960's. I picked it up at York, but found it was not running. Correcting an obvious wiring error solved the problem and it zooms around just fine, although it can get stuck on the one end of the layout where I have 0-32 curves. More on Ikaria from the Binns Road website: www.binnsroad.co.uk/railways/tioka/index.html

The Zeuke electric loco and cars was an Ebay find. Zeuke was made in the former East Germany. The engine arrived with the plastic motor mount cracked, but was repairable with some disassembly as seen in the photos. Note the multiple sets of triple electrical pickup shoes underneath- Zeuke O gauge was configured for operation on 3-rail track that had all the rails isolated (which is how they did reversing), requiring some internal rewiring for use with regular 3-rail track. Zeuke used mainly Bakelite construction, including the wheels. Not the best runner, but neat looking and a fun piece to go with the Zeuke streamlined steam loco I picked up a while ago.

Ikaria tram and Zeuke electric locoIkaria tram sideZeuke electric loco and train 2Zeuke electric loco and trainZeuke electric loco disassembled 2Zeuke electric loco disassembled

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Zeuke electric loco and train IMG_6706
Ikaria tram

PhillyChris, is there any chance that the whole thing is being held together by the nut/bolt combination on the piece of insulated material on the bottom?  It sort of looks like if you unscrewed that and also unscrewed the nut/bolt that looks to be the feed for the live wire that the whole assembly would slide out.  This, of course, is just a guess but based on your pictures it looks like the only way to take the light fixture apart.

First picture: picked up the Ives Railway Lines water tower on ebay. Needs some pieces yet to complete but it’s still a nice addition. The trailer house I got from my Pop’s attic, one door opens on each side. Nice pieceA79173EB-8726-41DB-B131-BE95E9D3021A

Marx Gravel Truck(wind-up) and what I believe is a Hubley dump truck. From pop 

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Ives Railway Lines Chair Car #551. Need to get couplers for it, but plan on adding it to  my Ives/Bing consist.

02FB8E9D-ED1E-4ED9-9C03-6D4F4324AD11

Up front: Corgi Major Series Construction Crane. 1 wind-up Ambulance And a Friction racecar(Fance #55)- made in Japan. On the right is a Portland cement truck, behind that is a Boston Red Sox car. In the middle: Matchbox Crane and a Tonka construction car. In the back is a wind-up Marx tank.

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Somebody Stop Me !!!

Found ANOTHER variation of the late 20's Karl Bub loco ... and seriously for less than 10£ (13US$) How can you say no ?

Just missing a side rod on one side and a bit of cab straightening...

So now we have THREE variations of the same loco

#1 with Bright Chrome boiler dome, blobby rivets, and Bright Nickel front, 10 Spoke wheels, Cab lever

#2 with Normal Nickle dome, small neat rivets, and Black boiler front, 12 Spoke wheels, Cab lever

#3 with Bright Chrome Boiler dome, blobby rivets, and Black boiler front, 6 Spoke wheels, Side brake lever

#1

#2

 

#3

 

They must have gotten free beers at lunch at the Bub Factory

I would guess at chronologically ?

#3 earliest, #1 next, #2 last? I dont think there is more than a few years between them tho?

Jon G posted:

Found this at York.  Had to replace the crossarm, but thought it was pretty neat.  Love the wording.IMG_20190419_222522160

JON,

A number of years ago, I did very much the same thing.  In my case, a friend just kindly handed the AFMCo. No. 2206 to me. I replaced the cross arm and did a mild restoration. Zinc pest in the die cast cross arm is a common problem with these. Some fun, hey!

Bob

2206 v3

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Last edited by Bob Bubeck

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