What's the deal with Neolube?

Most of this info was covered in my 'weathering' post but here it is again if any one missed it.

MTH PRR Hippo before........

And after.......

What is so great about Neolube?? It's a coating that is conductive, lubricats and sticks to about any metal. In the past I removed side rods, sand blasted them, painted and re-assembled. Lots of work. Neolube is just 'painted', I apply with a Q-tip, and you're done. It ain't cheap but I think a jar will do 10- 15 locos so it's worth it to save time and labor.

I have pictures but none that make a better example than above.  I love it.  Its not exactly a paint and not exactly an oil.  But whatever it is, it is very easy to apply, really lubes, does not hurt conductivity of drivers, and makes for a very realistic look -dark gray metallic color with just the right sheen (How many real locos had shiny driving rods or shiny wheels?)

Thanks for the posts. Looks like a great product. Will have to get some!

Lee was the one that told me about it......a GREAT find for sure. I got mine from PBL via a phone call.

Thanks Lee!!

Here we go...!  (Apologies to the suds-brewer.)

http://www.micromark.com/neolube-2-fl-oz,8383.html

KD

I saw this product in other posts. I ordered from Micro Mark on Friday. Knowing that it works well based on your posts made it a no brainer for me. Thanks for posts about the product, I would not have bought it if I did not hear of it on the forum. 

Hi

That stuff looks good.  Did you just cover over the 4248??

It looks great.

Thanks for sharing

tt

I applied the Neolube to the side rods and handrails. The rest is weathered with water based paint thinned 40/60 (60% thinner) with alcohol. I do spray over the numbers and lettering but not heavily and if I do get too heavy a rag with alcohol removes some.  I posted more info in my 'weathered loco' post.

hello guys and gals........

Does it rub off easy like paint ?

the woman who loves the S.F.#5021

Tiffany

Paint rubs off easy???

Easy??No...but I did rub some off when I applied it to a handrail and immediately handled it....some came off. But I have yet to have any rub off after a day or two drying.  It will get a low shine to it if lightly polished. 

hello Hot Water.............

yeah, i say EASY because when i tried to paint the driver tires which are made of carbon steel and is nickel-plated(the lionel and MTH engines),just on the side tires.  I cleaned it very well to be free from oil and gunk on it then after painting it on with good quality model paint after it dries in few days then the paint rubs off easy. 

the woman who loves the S.F.#5021

Tiffany

Tiffany.....When I was painting the side rods I had to sand blast them....and this did not work for driver tires!! This stuff adheres well and seems to 'stain' the metal. I run the loco at a slow speed and use a Q-tip to apply. Working so far!!!! Give it a try if you want to get rid of that nickel plating!

Hello AMCDave.............

Well i don't have any of those engines with nickel-plated drivers anymore but i will be picking up my Sunset 3rd Santa Fe #5021 2-10-4 very soon.  The drivers tires and flanges are one piece machined carbon steel but not nickel plated.  The driver tires looked like they are some sort of gray colored but the tire centers are black.  I would like to know how to re blacken the tires but not sure how to do it the right way without ruining it.  There's a picture of that Sunset 3rd Santa Fe 2-10-4 on ebay right now by typing "santa fe 2-10-4", you can see the pictures of the driver tires and you will see what i was talking about.   I wonder if a bottle of gun metal blue work with engine upside down running very slowly and applying the gun blue on the side tires with a Q-tip ? Any ideas ?

the woman who loves the S.F.#5021

Tiffany

Neolube is a fine graphite (carbon) powder in an alcohol suspension.  It was originally developed for Nuclear Reactor applications to ensure high electrical conduction and minimize corrosion in circuit breakers.  That Nuclear Reactor bit is why it is so expensive.   The minute carbon particles easily glide over each other, so it is also a lubricant.  After you apply it, the alcohol evaporates off, and the fine graphite powder sticks tenaciously to all the microscopic "nooks and crannies" on the metal surface. It is tough to get off because of that.  Conversly, it will not stick well to a very smooth, mirror finish surface.  The major downside is it will conduct electricity. So be sure you don't apply it over insulating gaps. (like 2 rail drivers!) It is really tough to get off.

Hope this helps

John hits the hail on the head.  I first wrote about Neolube here on the Forum back in 2002 (?) and the only problem I had was with it not permanently adhering to the shiny side rods on my MTH steamers as readily as other areas.  For side rods, I recommend Floquil <http://www.micromark.com/solvent-base-paint.html> grimy paints which can be brushed on.  Be aware that the Floquil, once brushed onto any porous metal and all plastics, is basically there to stay.

Bill

Assuming I really want to weather a loco well, I remove any mirror finish or too-shiny side rods, etc., and sand them with #1200 or #1500 wet dry sandpaper (made for finish work on automobile paint).  This leaves enough roughness that neolube then sticks well.

I prefer this to using floguil or any other "paint."

I don't know what you painted the tire edges with, but every single one of my steam locomotives have the running gear painted AND weathered. I rarely have to touch-up any tire edges due to paint chipping. 

Then again, I do not pick up my models by the wheels.