I know there are many methods for connecting drops to the bus. What I'd like to know from those in the know is what is the best method that creates the least resistance and voltage drops?
I'll be using 12 gauge stranded copper for my bus. I'll be using Legacy. Planning for DCS will not need to be a consideration as I have no plans to install it.
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These are certainly easy to use and very effective...
Good luck getting suitcase connectors on 12 gauge wire, though.
I guess I could get some 14 if I went that way Rob.
Charlie, for 12 ga wire, you should use the blue version. The red ones are for 16 ga and maybe 14 ga. Yes, they are difficult to use on 12 ga. Sometimes it takes multiple tries, but when you do get them on, they work great.
Yes, sorry, wrong flavor. 3M makes these that are for #12 wire. I'm certain that there are other brands as well.
Ok. Suitcase connections are one option. Others?
There's always Wago Lever Nuts.
There's always Wago Lever Nuts.
Sorry John, but I see two drawbacks to using those. First, you have to cut the bus wire at every feeder to make the connection. Second, cost.
I've tried soldering too, and never again! What a pain.
There's always Wago Lever Nuts.
These keep showing up, I think I'm starting to like them. Might have to try a few and see how they work. They look like a really nice idea.
I'm not a big fan of the suitcase connectors, have seen improper use with those also, wrong size, not crimped tight, etc. I suppose they are probably ok if the correct size for the wire is used and they are crimped properly. The Wago's look much better to me, FWIW.
I read about the following method in an article written by an HO'er:
Bare about 2" of your feeder (18 gauge for mine) and about 1.25" of your stranded bus (10 gauge for mine). Poke a hole in the middle of the strands of the bus with a nail or other pointed object and feed the feeder through the hole and wrap the feeder around the bus and restore the whole junction to its round shape with needle nose pliers. Then wrap with electrical tape. Positive connection without cutting into the wires. Not particularly fast but very sure.
Ed
If put on correctly Wire Nuts are all you need. Easy to use, easy to remove, easy to replace.
I use yellow crimp on barrel connectors.Buss is #12 and drops are #14.Never had a problem.
After 43 years as an electrician the correct wire nut is the best. I like the Ideal 451 & 452 the best
Ken M
After 43 years as an electrician the correct wire nut is the best. I like the Ideal 451 & 452 the best
Ken M
I also like wire nuts. Personally I don't like anything that's crimped, too much margin for error especially if one is using the crimpers they include with those connector kits. Wire nuts can also be taken off, something else can be added, then re-used. Also, I do kind of like the Wago's.
Posi-Tap Connectors have been my favorite. No need to crimp wire, they hold extremely tight and are reusable if you need to make changes. Once connected to the Bus, you can add four feeder wires to them.
They work great with Legacy/TMCC and DCS.
Whats the matter with terminal strips?
I use Post-Taps for the ground and suitcase connectors for everything else.
I have to thank Brian for posting the Posi-taps. Those are interesting.
I will second posi-taps from Brian but I would not use suit case connectors.
do you have to cut the buss wire, to put the Posi-Taps on ?
do you have to cut the buss wire, to put the Posi-Taps on ?
Clem according to the directions you would not cut the bus.
Brian,
I have never seen Posi-taps before, but they look like an excellent device! Where do you find them?
Chris
LVHR
This has Scotch 33+ or Scotch 88 Electrical tape. Both are easily $4.50 a roll. Good quality tape that is easy to work with. Note that the tape is usually (back rolled) off the stock tape to form a smaller roll that is much easier to manipulate around the wiring to be insulated. Note the black tape areas.
do you have to cut the buss wire, to put the Posi-Taps on ?
Clem according to the directions you would not cut the bus.
You out just unscrew the bottom cap from the body, slip the wire into the cap's channel, then screw the body back onto the cap. A metal pin inside the body pierces the wire to make the connection to the bus. Then unscrew the top cap to add the feeders from the track. Strip a little insulation off the ends of the feeders and insert into the body. As you screw the top cap on it twists the stripped wire around the internal pin and locks the wires in place. They are very tight connections and are great for command control wiring.
They are very quick connections and easy to use!
I also like the Posi-Lock connectors for splicing inline.
Brian,
I have never seen Posi-taps before, but they look like an excellent device! Where do you find them?
Chris
LVHR
Chris, I have seen them at Walmart and some auto stores, but in small packages. I order right from the website in bulk and have them delivered to my door.
Thank you Traindiesel, from the pictures I couldn't tell if it was a slot for the buss wire.
Clem
My pleasure Clem! I like how easy they are to connect with no mess.
Posi-Tap Connectors have been my favorite. No need to crimp wire, they hold extremely tight and are reusable if you need to make changes. Once connected to the Bus, you can add four feeder wires to them.
They work great with Legacy/TMCC and DCS.
I've used them for all my electrical connections. I have some 10 gauge wire for the main feeds and they work great. Very easy to use and they make positive contact easy.
do you have to cut the buss wire, to put the Posi-Taps on ?
Clem according to the directions you would not cut the bus.
No need to cut the bus wire. They simply make the connection when you tighten the screw cap.
I likely have 50 or more on the layout. None have failed. I have also used them on outdoor power equipment with the same success.
When doing multiple drops from a buss wire, is it best to make the isolated sections (center rail isolating pin) no longer than 5 sections of Gargraves, with the drop from the middle (3rd) section of rail? Is there a better scheme?
On my 2-rail old-fashioned DC layout I used two 10-gauge buss wires, then wrapped and soldered short 16-gauge feeders that run to terminal strips where the 18-gauge rail drops connect (one feeder for each section of rail, no matter how short). I interconnect the terminal strips for several sections of rail, to reduce the number of soldered connections. Doing all this was a lot of work to begin with, but it has been absolutely dependable for many years, and it has been easy to change connections at the terminal strips, if necessary (to create a new isolated section, for example).
For all of our layouts (5), I've used 14g stranded for the buss lines and 18g stranded for the feeders.
I've used the 14-18g suitcase connectors with no issues at all. Used Channel-lock pliers to seat the lance in the suitcases firmly and evenly.
I used butt connectors (14 gauge feeders) to a centrally located barrier terminal strip for my power districts. I also (sparingly) used suitcase connectors for certain feeder pairs. I've used suitcase connectors for my switch machine bus (20 gauge). All of these were on the first version of the Panhandle.
For a friend's layout, I used barrier terminal strips (cut the bus) and 14 gauge zipcord. Feeders are attached to Atlas track connectors (18 gauge?). This provides a neat look under the layout, although it does involve a lot of crimping.
For the next version of the Panhandle, I'm seriously considering barrier terminal strips (point to point bus) or the Posi-taps. The feeders are GarGraves track pins with pig-tails.
In any case, I am planning on investing in a professional level crimping tool - something with a mechanical advantage (instead of relying on my arthritic hands for strength). Any recommendations?
George
The Posi-taps look really nice and very interesting, but I haven't yet gotten around to ordering any to try out. Guess I need to get on the stick here with the ordering. The others her using them seem to be quite satisfied.
I also use Posilocks, I use to use suitcase connectors, but Posilocks are IMO much easier to use, especially when reusing, probably more expansive, but quicker to install, which is important when time is money.
Chad
"I've tried soldering too, and never again! What a pain."
How do you mean "What a pain" ? Maybe you were not taught how to do it correctly?
I can solder a splice in about 10 seconds that will never fail in your lifetime, and afford a zero resistance connection. All you need are clean wires, a good mechanical joint, the correct solder and an iron with enough wattage. In fact, even if you are lacking in any one of the above requirements, you will still get a good joint, albeit with a little more time expended.
Arthur P. Bloom posted:"I've tried soldering too, and never again! What a pain."
How do you mean "What a pain" ? Maybe you were not taught how to do it correctly?
I can solder a splice in about 10 seconds that will never fail in your lifetime, and afford a zero resistance connection. All you need are clean wires, a good mechanical joint, the correct solder and an iron with enough wattage. In fact, even if you are lacking in any one of the above requirements, you will still get a good joint, albeit with a little more time expended.
Absolutely correct Art. Here's how to do it properly.
Here's how a good solder joint should look.
wild mary posted:Here's how to do it properly.
No question solder is the way to go in most circumstances. However upside down under the layout with hot solder falling on my face or hand etc, I'll take the Posi-Tap for hooking in to the bus any day of the week. I've had zero issues and running trains for some time know. It's a very solid connection without risking cutting the bus wire or disturbing strands on the bus wire.
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