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Another method is an LM2596 DC-DC regulator module.  These go for 99 cents on eBay with free shipping but will take a couple weeks to come from Asia; search eBay for "LM2596 module".  They can deliver 1000 mA or more of current so should be able to drive quite a few signs.

 

You add a bridge rectifier in front of it to convert AC to DC, adjust the voltage to 4.5VDC or whatever (you need a meter), and you're off to the races.  These modules use switching regulator technology which effectively eliminates heat issues which can be an issue with linear regulators (such as the LM7805 or LM317) when dropping large voltages as you would if going from 14VAC to 4.5VDC.  But as the guys say, if only driving a small load, a linear regulator can be expedient.

 

ogr lm2596 45

If experimenting before final installation, I add screw-terminal connectors for quicker connect/dis-connect.  You can use 4 diodes instead of a bridge if that's what you have handy.  These are illustrated in the upper module in the photo.

 

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  • ogr lm2596 45

Thank you all for your very helpful advice.  (this forum is sure a great place for getting quick answers).  I like Stan's LM 2596 approach. Stan, am I correct that in your accompanying photo the  upper module is a LM 2596 but just with screw-terminals connected on both ends?  Could I power three Miller signs with one module. If so would I wire them in series or parallel?

Bob

Why not just buy this?

#4804 Converter Module
#4804 - Converter module. This unit
will replace your battery pack. It will let
you run your signs off track voltage or
your power pack. Accepts an input
voltage from 5 to 17 volts, AC or DC
and outputs the required 4.5 volts for
our signs. Will run up to 6 signs.
<form action="" method="post" name="Form84" style="margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;">
<colgroup><col width="247" /></colgroup>
<colgroup><col width="38" /><col width="123" /><col width="11" /><col width="66" /><col width="9" /></colgroup>
 
 #4804 - Converter module 
 
   
  $12.95
  
 
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Definitely can't go wrong using a Miller power supply for a Miller sign!  Note that the Miller module is conveniently pre-set to 4.5VDC output whilst the eBay adjustable LM2596 modules requires a voltmeter to set the output voltage.  It wasn't clear initially that you were using Miller signs or what specific voltage and current capability you needed.

 

As for the LM2596 module, I see you can now get one that includes the bridge rectifier but it runs about $6 shipped (from Asia) - search eBay for "LM2596 AC module".  So these would be AC or DC input, and adjustable DC output.  I'm sure the price will eventually come down.  And for those that like the convenience of screw-terminals, I figure a version will also appear soon enough.

 

lm2596 ac input module

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  • lm2596 ac input module
Originally Posted by bobbycakes:

I have a couple of billboards that require low DC voltage to operate and I would like to wire them directly to an accessory AC transformer. Is it better to reduce the AC voltage with diodes first and then connect a bridge rectifier or the other way around?  Or doesn't it matter?

Bob

Bob, I know you got a better solution, but to answer your question, Rectifiers are just diodes oriented to produce DC from AC.  The rectifier can also be made via 4 diodes, as seen on some of the products above.

Using diodes to drop voltage is a crude way to do it, but it would be best to rectify AC first than use diodes to drop DC voltage.  You would need less diodes as polarity is already set.  This is how a QSI bottom board does it.  Rectifies AC to DC than uses 4 large diodes to get a lower DC value for the motor.  G

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