...and if so, what might they be? I'm aware that it needs cruise but are there any gear mesh/alignment problems that preclude it being a good runner?
How are the sounds? We have the N&W Class A from the same catalogs and it sounds great.
|
...and if so, what might they be? I'm aware that it needs cruise but are there any gear mesh/alignment problems that preclude it being a good runner?
How are the sounds? We have the N&W Class A from the same catalogs and it sounds great.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Watch out for broken flywheels! They seem to snap on this loco and may make your $500.00 + loco into a screaming bullet if using TMCC.
The blind drvers are wide and flat (not beveled), they will short out over most turnouts (switches). Otherwise no opertional problems other than lack of cruise you mentioned.
Sam,
All the issues stated above is true. The sounds are not that great either. My preference would to buy the MTH version and upgrade it to ps2 or you could wait for Lionel or MTH to re- issue it.
Broken fly wheels was not a problem with the scale t-1. That was a problem with the first edition of the LIONmaster T-1.
I have the Lionel scale t-1 and I really like this engine. I upgraded it with cruise using an err board. It was a simple swap of the motor controller board. The only issue is the middle drivers. They are not beveled and can short out on switches. I took my t1 apart and cut a bevel on the middle drivers and I do not have any issues with it. It can creep through my Ross 072 switches without a hitch. Sounds are decent but smoke is not that great. I may upgrade the smoke unit at some point. Its a very heavy engine. It can really highball too since it has large drivers.
I have this engine and love it. I don't have the wide driver issue because I have very wide radius switches.
Joe, what ERR board did you use and how much did it cost? Does it use a sticker on the flywheel for timing?
Watch out for broken flywheels! They seem to snap on this loco and may make your $500.00 + loco into a screaming bullet if using TMCC.
ERR uses counter EMF for speed control. No tapes or tach sensors are needed.
Joe, what ERR board did you use and how much did it cost? Does it use a sticker on the flywheel for timing?
Cool!
I was able to use the cruise commander M. Its a direct replacement for the motor driver board. Its a real easy swap out. And like Marty said, it monitors the EMF for speed control. It runs real sweet with cruise control.
The board was 89.95. You have to get the following kit:
Cruise Commander M Kit for MB-036 / 089
- Steamer kit for wireless tether
You will also have to upgrade your r2lc to version 8. I believe that engine came with revision 7.
Thanks for the tips!
I have one very nice looking but the smoke output is poor and it hates Atlas switches!
Looks nice on the shelf.
Gunny
Thanks guys, I have one departing OH tomorrow and am really looking forward to it.
Is the smoke 'repairable' with the tip shown on Lionel's site?
Several have mentioned the chuffs being sub par. Would the reed switch help or is the actual sound bad?
Another question if I may - why hasn't reissued this beast in RS5 or Legacy in the past 12 years?
I would love a step by step fix on how to the bevel the drivers...I have this locomotive and I can only run it on my upper loop without switches. I love the whistle.
Scott Smith
I have seen two copies of this engine operate satisfactorily as is on both Gargraves and Ross Turnouts that were the 100's or larger numbered turnouts . Folks that seemed to have the problem with driver shorting seemed to be running on turnouts with a curve in the design, such as an 072 . I believe it also ran ok on Lionel switches.
As to the rerun question, I was thinking that this locomotive was one that might have been a subject in the MTH-Lionel litigation and settlement of some years past. There was a story about how the parts for this loco were made in Korea and sent to the US for assembly as the litigation got started.
My T1 looks and runs great. My only issue is no cruise which I will add with ERR. The sounds are OK for an engine this old. I don't care about smoke. I only use it for a few minutes, mostly to show visitors, and then turn it off. I don't like breathing it from any engine. I'm trying to limit any future health challenges.
Curious, how many chuffs per rev on the Lionel model?
The prototype just like a simple articulated would be more often then not some cadence of eight. Only four when both sets of engines came into perfect sync.
Heres Johns video His seems to run and smoke well.
My t1 runs perfectly quiet. My only issue is the smoke. I redid the wicking and it still smokes poor. Based on the video, I probably have a bad smoke resistor. I'll either replace the smoke resistor or put in a lionel smart smoke unit so it puffs.
I would love a step by step fix on how to the bevel the drivers...I have this locomotive and I can only run it on my upper loop without switches. I love the whistle.
To bevel the drivers, I would assume the proper way would be to pull the wheels and put them on a lathe. I did not want to send the engine out so I improvised. I stripped the locomotive down to its frame and wheels. I then used a dremel with a grinding bit attached and put it against each blinder driver. I then turned the wheels by hand while holding the dremel steady. I got a nice bevel on each wheel.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership