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Originally Posted by prrhorseshoecurve:
Sorry but I don't know what you mean by shortening up the center rail. For insulation, I would use the plastic pins so the rails keep aligned. Remember the rails are hollow and over time may tend to lean out esp if you constantly run heavy die cast locos, especially steam locos.

Shortening it a bit so the next section doesn't touch it. I've read some people do that then add a little super glue to it.

Originally Posted by Moonman:

The plastic pins have the gap center filler. Hard to tell from their photo what that measurement is.

 

If you cut and create the gap you damage the track for possible reuse. It will work. If it arcs, you may have to trim a little more after installation and testing.

 

The pins are best, but you can do it either way.

Thanks Carl, 5:40 in the morning so I gave up on it for the night lol. Figure I better order those pins so hopefully they can get here soon.

Lance,

 

   You mention the center rail, you don't do anything to the center rail. Either use the plastic pins or cut one of the outside rails. Then run a wire from the outside rail to say a gate, then connect another wire from a power source to the gate. The gate will go down when the wheels complete the electrical connection to the gate.

 

JohnB

I can understand removing the pin and shortening up the center rail.Thats how the insulating sections are made on Fastrack.Makes perfect sense.NickOriginally Posted by Lancer:
Just curious what's the best way to do it? I wasn't sure if I HAD to use the plastic pins or not. Also, regardless of pins, do I need to take the dremel and shorten up the center rail a little bit or...?

Thanks!

 

These styrene strips were inserted in an existing set-up to provide an isolated activation rail. I used a dremel to cut the pin/provide a gap in the rail.   Installed, they were glued in place, with CA (Cyanoacrylate), Super glue, and then trimmed to the rail contour.  The isolated rail section is used for automatic non-de-rail, DZ 1000 switch motors.

Last edited by Mike CT

Every place I have a insulating pin or rail cut in the outside rail I paint the end of the tie next to the insulating pin/cut white.  I use the ends of the center rail in gargraves switches  for the center insulating joint.  I checked each switch for wires on the bottom side and cut wires as needed.

I use the plastic O gauge pins from Gargraves now. I used to use K-Line's S gauge plastic pins and cut them down a little on the sides to fit O gauge Gargraves track.

 

To keep proper alignment in the curves I have found it best to use the plastic pins rather then any other method.

 

While talking about Gargraves track don't forget that all three rails are separated electrically from each other.

Also Gargraves switches differ in certain years as to whether they have center rail power going all the way through the switch rails or not.

 

Lee Fritz

 Years ago I had 2 DCS channels isolated with a lift out bridge. No insulator. Over time what was once a slight gap now had the center rails slightly touching. Didn't really notice an issue till I blew a fuse. Didn't realize one blew. Now one channel was trying to handle way to much track. My DCS signal wen't totally south. Spent a few evenings and finally saw the problem. A little more trimming and some styrene and it won't happen again.

Originally Posted by rockstars1989:
I can understand removing the pin and shortening up the center rail.Thats how the insulating sections are made on Fastrack.Makes perfect sense.Nick
I am interested in this comment.  If true, it couldn't be used to run accessories like the tinplate insulated track can, correct?  Because the wheels wouldn't be acting as an on/off switch.  The current would be in both ground rails steadily.

 

 

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