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I finally got approval to rebuild my train layout in our 21 x 20 family room. The first version was an L-shaped dogbone design with return loops and curved modules 7 to 8' deep and storage underneath. A nice design for a dedicated train room, but since my wife wanted to use the room for other things it had to come down. Fortunately I built that layout in sections- I was able to save my 2 x 6 rectangular modules, but the return loops turned into trash being stored outside.

 

I decided my second attempt would be an around-the-walls with a max depth of 24-30". The curved modules are made to the same 24" depth, but split into 45 degree turns to make them easier to move, store, and make it possible to configure the modules into different shapes. I'm also planning to add a lower level with a staging yard and a transition grade. Track is currently Lionel Fastrack for mock up purposes, but I will be switching to Atlas code 148 and 155 2-rail with a studrail once the final track design is set.

 

Geno

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Last edited by 72blackbird
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Nice job so far.

 

The around-the-walls method gives you a nice long mainline and realistic flow between scenes.

 

My layout is about the same size as yours (20 x 30) and here's what I found out about lower level staging yards ( I have two) since you're planning on building one.

1. Make sure you have enough separation between levels but not TOO much. (see #2 below) There WILL be problems down there every now & then and you really need to be able to both see in and reach in to fix things. There's about 14" from railhead to railhead on mine.

2. The grade up to the layout is going to be steep. Mine is 5%. We just don't have enough run length to get the grade percentage down much lower. One, dual can motored diesel with traction tires can pull about 10 average length/weight cars up that grade, and two locomotives can pull almost 20. Die cast freight cars (like some Intermodal cars) reduce that number significantly.  Overall I'm very happy with how mine performs. i just had to buy a few more locomotives to make it work (darn it!! &nbsp 

 

A helix is the best way to do this, you could make a great looking double-deck railroad with 2 feet between levels, but it looks like you and I don't really have the space for one.

Again, nice job so far. I hope some of what Ive learned helps you with yours.
- RICH

Last edited by richtrow

Paul,

Thanks for the kind words. I used 1 x 4's split down the middle and planed down to 3/16" thick. The inner layers are 1/4" luan- to not see the ply layers on top, I ripped the luan to 3" wide, and made some 1/2" tall, 1/4" strips of the same material as the 1 x 4's (pine or VG Fir). Once you glue and clamp them on top of the luan, it looks like a single piece of 1 x 4 once it's dried and finish sanded.

 

To keep the shape of the curve, the module is built in a jig. The 7/16" OSB subtop also helps to keep the curved side boards from spreading. I have stringers ripped to 2 1/2" tall, spaced about 16" o.c., and 3" long gussets on every stringer. I use a Kreg pocket screw jig to  drill holes to tie the stringers to the curved fascia- it's also glued as well.

 

Geno

Originally Posted by richtrow:

Nice job so far.

 

The around-the-walls method gives you a nice long mainline and realistic flow between scenes.

 

My layout is about the same size as yours (20 x 30) and here's what I found out about lower level staging yards ( I have two) since you're planning on building one.

1. Make sure you have enough separation between levels but not TOO much. (see #2 below) There WILL be problems down there every now & then and you really need to be able to both see in and reach in to fix things. There's about 14" from railhead to railhead on mine.

2. The grade up to the layout is going to be steep. Mine is 5%. We just don't have enough run length to get the grade percentage down much lower. One, dual can motored diesel with traction tires can pull about 10 average length/weight cars up that grade, and two locomotives can pull almost 20. Die cast freight cars (like some Intermodal cars) reduce that number significantly.  Overall I'm very happy with how mine performs. i just had to buy a few more locomotives to make it work (darn it!! &nbsp 

 

A helix is the best way to do this, you could make a great looking double-deck railroad with 2 feet between levels, but it looks like you and I don't really have the space for one.

Again, nice job so far. I hope some of what Ive learned helps you with yours.
- RICH

Hi Rich,

I hear you on the radical, toy train grades needed to make the transition from upper to lower levels. I'm planning to set my lower level 12" lower than the main level, currently set a 40". I know that is tight and will limit viewing, especially with a 22-24" deep deck, but like you said, with limited room comes compromises. I'm considering more grade run to lower it even a bit lower, but I'll mock it all up before I build anything. I figure I'll need to run along all four walls to get down to a 28" elevation, which means another lift up bridge in front of the doorway.

 

I also need a return loop, which easily be added inside the room, but it would have to be removable when not running trains. I'm planning for my staging yard to run along three walls, so that should give me plenty of yard area.

 

I also have alot of diecast intermodal equipment, so pushers and maybe even a mid train slave unit will be called for. I look at it as prototypical- all good to me! I t will be interesting to say at the very least how my engines with scale wheels will handle a long intermodal stack train- good thing I'm building a layout that can accomodate 3-rail engines too. I will need that rubber -tired traction.

 

I'd love to see pics of your layout- feel free to post them here. Any helpful ideals are greaty appreciated.

 

Geno

 

 

Marty,
It's interesting you mention your shelf layout- my wife wanted me to build a shelf layout in our bonus room, but if I did that when she would have blocked me on a free standing layout. If I had gone that route I would have gone through the wall, down the hallway and into our bedroom. There was no way she would agree to that, so my only option was a ground-level layout.

She agreed to the layout provided that it wasn't anchored  to the walls, and that it could be removed if we use the room for other purposes. So far so good.

Geno

A thing called "life" forced me to take about a month break from the layout- I went up to Oregon for about two weeks to visit my Father, whom a doctor gave 24-48 hours to live (he beat the infection, and with another hospital and God's grace, he is now recovering). I returned on 12/9 and started a new job- two busy weeks later, my boss gave me the week off for Christmas and New years. Time to get back on the layout.

I got the remaining curved modules done, the final pieces of track I needed to complete the trackwork, and I can now run trains on my layout. I've found some dead spots, so Il'll need to add some drops to raise the continuity around the whole layout. I want to run trains on the layout for awhile and see how I like it, before I commit to the scale rail track and the studrail. I will post video once my main wiring is done andt trains are running smoothly.

Geno

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Thanks for the kind words guys. I'm looking at other layouts now, noticing the level of detail in them, and quite honestly feeling overwhelmed. Where is a good place to start? I enjoy running trains, but clearly I want my layout to be more than just a huge loop of track. Any suggestions? I'm thinking I want to model scenes from railroading in the LA area, since I live here in SoCal.

Geno 

Last edited by 72blackbird

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