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Can you actually "throw" a switch with these, or do they rotate as another method is used?

NO you can't actually throw the switch. Only the lantern rotates. the arm and simulated mechanism is just a brass detail.


 The lantern on the right shows a typical breaking point. The mini "e washer" is missing and the brass housing/bearing insert broke.

Rowi-Swstnd2

Rowi-Swstnd1

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Last edited by prrhorseshoecurve
Originally Posted by Moodster08:
Does anyone know what the voltage is for these?

The two I have at home are reg. incandescant bulbs.  I use 12-14v to power.  Seems fine.

 

However, you might want to call Tom or Steve at Ross and ask.  They, like other mfrs. of items of this sort, may be contemplating a switch to LED's.  That would be fine with me, since I have a BUNCH more I'd like to add before my bucket list is done.

 

Besides, they are nice guys to talk with!!

 

KD

Last edited by dkdkrd

I now use mine as static lanterns on my Ross dbl #175 crossover.

 

i will look but think a photo I had was deleted.

 

but they look awesome and yes you can use a manual throw and yes they can show which way the switches are set for.

 

Dz or any other switch motors will work with the Ross #50 switch stand as they mount on opposite side away from switch motor.

 

you won't be sorry once lights are off it gives that Early Christmas Morning feeling.

Originally Posted by Bill Phillips:

Has anyone successfully installed these on an Atlas switch?  If so can you post some PIX?

The stand works great on Ross switches, but I also have quite a few Atlas switches.  Thanks.

I did a couple of NJ International switch stands on Atlas switches and linked them with small brass wire.

 

Good morning everyone, I have these switch stands on all my Ross Turnouts.

As a few members mentioned above they do look good at night.

 

They can be interesting getting the linkage set up so when the turnout is thrown the switch stand lantern turns all the way around and vice versa.

 

I use Caboose Industries ground throws for my turnouts and sometimes if the linkage to the switch stand is not correct the turnout points won't move all the way over and creates a derailment.

 

For me it took some time to get the switch stands setup properly but the do add detail and interest to a normally bland looking turnout.

 

I just send 12 volts to the lanterns to power them up.

I believe they tell you 12 or 14 volts in the instructions with the switch stand for long bulb life.

 

Another thing to be careful with is the wiring because the wires are very fine and I learned real quick to solder the feeder wires to the existing wires of the switch stand before the switch stand is installed on the turnout.

Not much fun under a layout trying to solder to these fine wires.

 

Has anyone that has used these switch stands found a source for the wire that is used for the linkage?

I have two stands that I cut the wire to short and tried different wires but not with much luck.

The original wire is very stiff and holds it shape once it is bent.

I tried some wire from craft stores but that's not the answer along with some different wire from wire feeder welders.

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

 

 Thanks in advance, Merry Christmas

Originally Posted by Phoebe Snow Route:

I'm probably a little late to the party on this on this one, but do the manual switch stands, like those of Ross, NJ International or Caboose come with the mechanism for connect to the points or do I have to supply that myself?  

The turnout itself should come with the throw-bar already attached to the points. Thus, a manual switch stand, is attached to the hole in either end of that throw-bar, depending on which side one desires the switch stand to be mounted. I use nothing but Caboose Hobbies manual switch throws on all my Atlas turnouts that are with in reach, otherwise I have an electric underneath the layout that operates the turnout.

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