Ross Switch Wiring

What switches are giving you problems?  Are they long switches (#6/#8/curved)?

Are the switches pre-wired (RossReady)?

if powered, what switch motors are you using?

Ron

Check the Ross wiring diagrams to avoid that problem.

I have had a similar experience with one of my 26 Ross Premier switches.  They are nearly all #6 or #8's, and all ballasted in place.  One of the #8s had the prewired connector come unsoldered - I was able to repair it in place, but since then have avoided ballasting anywhere near the connecting prongs.  Hopefully that will lessen the likelihood, as I have NOT dropped power feeds to each of the 3 legs in every instance.

I used relays on my #8s to avoid dead spots within the switch with smaller equipment. They work like a charm. My track plan also called for drops at locations that happened to coincide with the location of my switches to deliver power on all three sides. All the better for me to just deal with the risk on the front end, as I hate to have to kick myself later when I go back to fix.

Len:

Would you please provide more info on your solution - what relays and how did you wire them. I will be running Ross switches so am interested in your solution.

Thanks

Joe

Joe,

Len’s description is real good; here is a picture that may help.  It is of the switch wiring I am using for my layout.  What Len is talking about is shown in the single switch diagram (middle one).  This is the same wiring as shown on the RCS web site, but this picture helps me keep my wiring straight. 

For the DZ-1008 repay, it gets its power from the red and black wires from a transformer.  It gets its control inputs from the DZ-2500 switch machine via the green and yellow wires.   For the relay function, power comes into the relay via the blue wire and out either the white or gray wire.  In my diagram, relay power comes from the center rail and is switched to the appropriate lead rail.  This is needed only for longer switches where a small engine will lose power crossing a dead lead rail. 

The primary purpose of the yellow and green wires is to support the non-derailing function of the switch.  If all you are after is non-derailing, you do not need the DZ-1008 relay.

Ron

Ron / Len:

Thank You

Joe