Tether wiring pin guide? Thank you G! added video

Joe, Why would pin out matter in this case, you are custom wiring so color is how it is done?  The harness are typically straight through so Pin 1 is Pin 1 on the other end.

We need to know what the donor parts came out of, Engine are wired differently.  In general though, White and Yel are motor and pin 9/10.  Red and Black AC power Pin 7/8, Gray and Orange 5V and Tach return Pin 5/6, Smoke fan Green 4 and PCB Ground Blue 3, Smoke Heat return Brown 2 and Purple which could be HL, PV or MUX is 1.  G 

Thanks G.

The board set is a spare? Most of the parts are brand new. They are going into a UP Challenger made by someone else. I just thought I'd follow some type of protocol.

You are right, It should not matter. If I end up selling the engine some day (when I'm gone?), I didn't want anyone switching tenders and messing things up. Not sure I could prevent that anyways!

I use the tethers in TMCC upgrades all the time.  I just wire the heavier #22 wires to the motors and the roller and frame, and then select the colors for the other functions from the remaining wires.  I typically double-up the wires for smoke as the wires are pretty fine.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I use the tethers in TMCC upgrades all the time.  I just wire the heavier #22 wires to the motors and the roller and frame, and then select the colors for the other functions from the remaining wires.  I typically double-up the wires for smoke as the wires are pretty fine.

yeah, thanks. I see that the motor and pickup wires are thicker. I think the wire for the smoke units work out fine the way the board supplies power to them thru the tether. I've never seen one fail other than a poor solder joint.

I just like heavier wire going to any high current device.  Other than smoke, anything else is very low current uses.

I can't double up any wires as there's not enough? I can't remember how to wire them. I usually get a upgrade kit and it's all done for me. I should have tried to get that tether assembled. Instead, I bought a straight tether to try. There's only ten wires and I think I need about 13 already. I remember that the seven pin harness did not send all the wires thru and there were some jumpers but I can't remember where?

2 wires to the motor, 2 wires for the pickups, that only leaves six left??

 I think I need to jump stuff together? Like the LED headlight positive and maybe the tach? Is that blue tach wire positive?

I can't send stuff to the frame (negative) because this is 2 rail and I need to reverse polarity when she's pointed the other way!

What does PC ground #3 go to?

They show a pair of diodes on the tether in the upgrade kit instructions. What's that for?

The diodes "regenerate" the PV voltage in the locomotives, it saves them from having to have another wire.  They connect to either side of the motor as one side is always PV, it changes with the direction, hence two diodes.

I have installed PS/2 in several 2-rail steamers, and I had no issues with the standard tether, why are you needing extra pins?

You mentioned doubling up the wires to the smoke unit. Where do you get extras from?

You must need less wires with TMCC?? No tach right?

You have 10 connections.  2 for motor (Wht and Yel).  2 for AC power (red and black).  If your tender has pickup roller you could eliminate the red and gain a wire.   3 for tach Gray, orange and Blue).  Gray is doubled up as fan motor 5V, use green for fan motor return.  We have used 8 wires now.   Brown is smoke heater return.  Purple on your harness is the last wire and it can be Head light control.  You need to make sure this wire goes into the 12 pin connector on the board to the Headlight slot.  Most likely it was a MUX connection.  Your now at 10 wires but you do not have PV for heater element or Headlight.  (MUX board in engine generated this) So wire diodes in off the motor leads (at motor if you have room, or with extra wire) to create PV.  Send PV to heater element and as the PV to your  Headlight.  Add 300 to 470 ohm resistor in line if you want to use LED HL.   Make sure all the wires go to the right spot in the engine.  Again, knowing what engine the harness came out of would help.   G

Sorry I confused you, you missed this statement in my reply where I doubled up wired. "I use the tethers in TMCC upgrades all the time."

Obviously, when I use them with DCS upgrades, I wire them as they're designed.

Right and remember most steamers being upgraded have a factory lighting board that run the markers, number board & interior lights.  If you don't have a factory lighting board then suppose could use a patch board and rig up your own cv board...or perhaps GRJ may have something already made that he sould sell you.

This is an older Williams 2 rail Challenger. The number boards are solid and don't light. The markers are just decoration also. I suppose I could replace them and add all the lights. I'll be happy just to see her run. I probably have never triggered the cab light on many of my steamers. I like the new ones with ps3 that go off automatically and the headlight gets brighter.

 At some point, it's just easier and better to buy a new MTH steamer. I keep getting side tracked. I would like to get them with ps3 and whistle smoke. I have bought so many used older models, I could have a fleet of brand new ones. Ah well, it keeps me busy.

Thank you G!! again!

I thought this was way over my head. I sat back and looked at what G was saying with each wire. After realizing that there's positive voltage going up there already, I tapped in and doubled stuff together. I had some stuff wired wrong so I just kept going over and over before applying any power.

 I actually stood back as far as I could with the engine on my bench in pieces. I connected everything and applied power. To my amazement and surprise.....everything works.

Well I'm testing in conventional first. I had shorted the 12-11 and 12-12 for sound as I don't have any pots connected. I forgot to short pins 12-1 and 12-10 together. When I did, the smoke unit came to life too. Now I still have to assemble everything but hey, she fired up.

 I hate electronics. It frustrates the heck out of me. I just upgraded a 3rd Rail Niagara last year and could not remember how I connected stuff. I just followed the kit's directions on that one. I like to build when I can. I spent all I the cash I had and I have boxes of extra parts. I even have a factory shell for a G scale Challenger here. It had factory fresh boards and a battery inside that I borrowed for this engine. So I figured I have more than enough stuff to upgrade this Williams 2 rail DC engine. I just had to connect everything. Yuck!

I owe U G. Let me know what you need????

Your welcome, Glad you got it. G

I shot a quick video to show her run....

I may have to adjust the stripes.

Well that was worth the trouble......

she went around the very first curve on the layout and shorted out. I have to inspect the lead and trailing trucks closer. I don't think they are the problem. I think the main driving wheels shorted on the side rods. The brake shoes are insulated so I don't think it was them.

 I tried adjusting the stripes to speed her up and she seems to now skip a few. I tried playing with the gap but I think the stripes are just wrong now.

 I wish I just had bought the new MTH PS3 Challenger! Urrggg. Soldier on.....

I hate these old steamers! My memory lapse struck again.