On my former layout I initially used MTH Realtrax and found that in order for the Marx stuff to run through switches, I had to trim the frogs, which had no effect on modern equipment using them....So...Are there any switches of a contemporary make that allows Marx to use them without modification?
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I think this has been discussed on here before. Early Marx engines, with the gear
teeth down to the bottom of the driver flanges won't clear Lionel and other switches but later Marx will. Marx switches, only available in 0-27 and O-34?, of course, will clear early and late. I THINK those previous postings named others that will work.
Ross makes a tinplate switch but I can't remember if "fat gear" engines will go through it or not. If it doesn't work with them, I don't believe there is anything new that will work with them off the shelf.
Myself, I prefer the old Marx manual switches with the metal bases and switch stands. They are simple and they seem to work.
J White
Prewar AF switches will also work. Early Gargraves switches will work, at least as well as they work for anything else.
I always check this question out with fingers crossed.
And I doubt that you don't know what I'm gonna write, but you never know who else reading. And I know you would like to use the turnouts as designed(to turn off a line).
But if you have only lefts, or only right turnouts in one of lionel 0-27(at least). You should be able to run the Marx one direction, straight thru the turnout(green signal/no curve), by keeping the gear to the full length outside rail.
On a temporary (1 - 1/2 years) layout, I used a few of the Marx O-34 plastic switches and it was very disappointing how roughly the trains ran through them. Marx trains should run well through Marx switches, right? I thought so, too. I was educated/schooled in reality.
So...Are there any switches of a contemporary make
Hi Bruce,
my recommendation won't fill the bill as they are vintage, but I use Lionel 1121 (not to be confused with the 1122) switches on my O Gauge layout - no guard rails, will accomodate any engine. The only draw backs are that they are O27 (I shim them up to match the O tubular track I use), and the tight radius of the curve - but if you are running mostly Marx, Hafner, and other prewar tinplate, that shouldn't matter much.
Does this mean you are getting ready to rebuild?
david
On a temporary (1 - 1/2 years) layout, I used a few of the Marx O-34 plastic switches and it was very disappointing how roughly the trains ran through them. Marx trains should run well through Marx switches, right? I thought so, too. I was educated/schooled in reality.
Every manufacturer has there hits and misses... and the plastic O34 and O27 switches were a definite miss for Marx. However, the earlier metal switches work great.
One option I haven't seen mentioned is the MERKUR switches. I haven't personally tried them, but they are made like the old-time toy train switches as opposed to the realistic switches with frogs and guardrails that give the fat-wheel Marx motors fits. I would be interested to hear if anyone has used them and how they worked with vintage tinplate...
From the looks of the design, the Merkur switches should work. They look like the straight and curved rail assembly swivels just like Marx metal and prewar Flyer switches do.
Early Gargraves might be the cheapest thing to try if you want wider than 27 inch diameter.
Dave
The 034 switches are plastic and have same issue as the plastic 027 switches, in other words they S@%K. What I did on an older layout I had was use the early metal 027 switches, but with a little massaging, used the 034 curves. The 333's did not have a problem with this set up.
Steve
Electroliner,
Check out the post by blue comet at the bottom of this page. It concerns switches for fat wheels https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...51#42398302348432851
Guys,
You were correct about the plastic Marx switches! They do S^~K..
It seems the trains only like to go one way thru the plastic switches, even going the opposite way, It's a crap shoot..
I have quite a few now and wish I knew that earlier...since I don't have locomotives with the fat wheel only the Marx 333 and K-line copy, would you suggest Gargraves Switches....
I don't really want to learn all the lessons the hard way with track and switches but am on a low budget...If you know what I mean..your thoughts are valuable...Great advice Guys!
If you are not going to run the phat geared type loco's, most switches will work fairly well. Fastrack switches though can be iffy due to the short span of the collector. I have seen a few just sit there and go back and forth 1/2 inch straddling the switch pivot. This is due to the Marx reverse unit switching very quickly with even a split second loss of continuity.
Steve
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