Cuyahoga #4070 Project: Repaint Needed B4 Decals?

Don't forget the "burning river".  It'll make everything correct.  And, a 1:48th scale of mayor Ralph Perk with his hair on fire.  

Oh!

 

I recently uncovered my art school supplies, and I also have tubes of both Acrylic ivory black and regular white by Grumbacher and Galleria.

 

Will these do alright, or should I find engine black to better match the engine and tender? If so, should I find it for spray paint or conventional brush painting?

I decided that the acrylic paint I have on hand is suitable enough for the additional painting.

 

Now here comes the HARD part: decals.

 

I did find a font called Chapaza which very closely matches the lettering on the engine's cab and back panel of the tender. I do have PhotoShop, but I don't have an InkJet/Laser printer. I still need help getting the logo for the tender, and also need help with the lettering on the number boards and the KEEP OFF details.

 

I know there's a LOT of decal companies out there, and many on the forum. I do need help getting both that specific font and tender logo as decals that I can purchase and use. If anyone can help me for the most difficult part of the project, that is very much appreciated.

Your decal issues will be solved by new forum sponsor LBR.  Several of us here have used him--he's fast, accurate, and great communication.

Currently at my local Micheals, and looking at black spray paint. For those who know paint better, what type of Testor's paint would match best for the engine and tender? Flat or gloss Testor's black?

I like Tamiya Flat Black on my steamers. Number boards can be printed on your computer.

I relented and bought the glossy Testor black. I guess I'll see if it work to match close enough.

 

Also to show how much work has progressed so far, I added all the white paint I needed to the engine and tender. Don't worry, I'll be covering the handrails when I spray paint the spots I will be renumbering. Next step is the decals, and I will be contacting LBR to see if they can get the logos and correct-font numbers I need. Needless to say, the white paint makes an ENORMOUS difference.

 

 

*sighs* Blowing the dust off both the thread and the project.

 

I tried removing the GTW logo off the tender with denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. It worked a little, but definitely not enough to remove it from the tender.

 

Anyone else have experience with a better liquid to remove logos and lettering in preparation for repainting or relettering?

If you're planning on removing all the paint and starting all over, i've used brake fluid to dissolve paint from die cast.  If you have some plastic parts, check on a hidden location with just a bit of the brake fluid to see if it will attack the plastic.   I have also use "Aircraft Stripper" to remove paint prior to repainting, but you must clean it all off before trying to paint over it.

 

Paul Fischer

 

Alright guys, I managed to remove the lettering I didn't need. It doesn't seem the black paint was damaged really, only some scuff marks that didn't remove the black. Should I still consider repainting?

If is all you have are some scuff marks, you can use some rubbing compound and polish the scuff marks out. It will probably leave the area you polish shinier than the area around it though, and you will have to touch up the rivets.

I think that would make things easier. Fortunately, I have some touch up black polish for this, and makes a bit more sense than repainting the whole tender for a little spot. Now off to order decals!

The polished surface will be good for water-slide decals. When you clear coat over the decals, the polished area's will become a lot less pronounced. If you don't have to repaint, don't, imo.