Not sure the post is in on the new forum format...but a while back one of the genius amongst us ( CandO ???) put a magnet on his plastic re-railer so that couplers were open when the car hit the rails. A simply great idea!
Anozira RR is Gragraves, 3 rails stanless steel. I am concerned about leading into a 3' high tressle. Ever have a $400 engine fall 3'? No? Does something to your heart when you hear it happen.
Now I understand what you're looking for....My layout will have my trains spanning my stairwell, 9' above the stair treads. I am already using this on the bridge on our modular club layout. It's Gargraves, stainless steel GAR102TRESTLE, $8.71 for a 37" piece. You won't be derailing on this!!!
I have tried finding an "0" re-railer track section without any luck at all. .
Me too. I've been looking for years. I know I remember one on Daddy's layout in the '50s. Here's a photo of the Flyer 2 railer, but I can't find a 3 railer. Who made the 3 railer? I keep this photo for a pattern to use when I make my own.
You might want to get a couple of "railers" and integrate the ends into straight sections of track on approaches to the trestle. Additionally, .25" plastic inserts on either side of the center rail with flange clearance would keep equipment safely positioned as it crossed the trestle.
Interestingly enough, we haven't had anything derail approaching any of our bridges at the club. Even my scale-wheeled stuff hasn't had issues with any of the bridges.
I've seen the item Susan posted for HO as well, but not O.
I think Matt has the answer. Make 'em.
I've been toying with the idea to flank my switches with something similar. For no apparent reason I occasionally get a derail on a light car, they would be re-railed automatically with the right pieces added. It would save the breaker popping and me having to crawl under to reach them. My knees don't like the crawling any more.
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