022 Switch fixed voltage

wlee posted:

. . . These switches have never been serviced, so I am wondering if this could be a sign that they need servicing.  Should the switches work reliably at 14V fixed voltage?

Yes.  My O22s get serviced and tested before going on the layout.  They'll operate reliably on 12 volts but I give 'em 14 anyway.

Pete

I use the constant voltage plug on the side of the switch and try to give my 022 switches about 15 to 18 volts from my post war ZW. The 022 switch works best in my opinion with the constant voltage supply hooked up to it, that way you go slower through the switch and have no derailment.

FYI; service your switches because they will work at a lower voltage with proper lube and cleaning. Don't forget to clean the parts that look like long pieces of copper inside the switch and the points that make contact with them. Also clean the rails with a light sand paper or eraser.

Lee Fritz

wlee posted:

the 14V fixed output of the transformer (posts B and F on an old model K style unit)...

Try B and G posts on that transformer to try 16 volts.

Also, how have you phased that Type K with the transformer used to control the train(s)?

The transformer used to control the trains is a CW-80.  To phase the two transformers, I connected an 18 gauge stranded copper wire from the "B" terminal of the Type K to the Track "U" terminal of the CW-80.  The Track "A" and "U" terminals of the CW-80 are connected to the lock-ons at various points in the layout (with "A" connected to the center rail).  The Accessory "B" and "U" terminals on the CW-80 are not used.

I partially disassembled the switch tonight, and have posted pictures of what I found.  On the switch motor, it looks like there are a few contact points (circled in black) that could use some cleaning up.  On the underside of the switch body, the crimp connection on the bottom right I circled looks troubling, as it has some corrosion and looks like it's partially opened up (as compared to the other crimp connection at the top right).

Also, there is a metal plate attached to the switch body that is fastened by what look like 1/8" hex head screws (at least they are smaller than the smallest 3/16" nut driver I have on hand).  I'm assuming there are items under there that also need to be examined for a proper servicing.  I found a post on another forum with very detailed instructions on how to service these switches.  It includes details on re-soldering the connections, but I'm a bit reluctant to do that as the existing solder connections look pretty good.

I just happened to be reading the Greenbergs Lionel Repair book, the newer version of K-Lines original printed about 35 years ago.  Anyway, I was reading about servicing O22 switches.  The talk about making sure there are no burrs on the swivel lamp cover, proper tensioning of the copper strips and checking the two slots, shown in your first photo that are guided by the two rivets.  

One other thing mentioned was to clean everything with Carbon Tetrachloride, a product I haven't heard of in many years.  I recall having some a long time ago and hearing how dangerous it is.  I'm still here.....LOL  

I ultimately removed the metal plate and found one solder connection that was broken.  I fixed this and cleaned and lubricated the rest of the switch.  The mechanical function seems much better now, but I'm also seeing a problem with the remote three-wire remote switch controller.  At times, both lamps will go out on the controller.  I've checked to be sure the lamps are not loose (they are the screw base).  When this happens, I do not read any voltage across any of the three terminals on the switch motor.  Also, the controller will no longer work the switch, and the auto-derail feature no longer works.  If I manually throw the switch with the lantern head, the lights will usually come back on and everything works again.  This would seem to indicate a loose connection somewhere but everything I can see looks OK.  Is there anything within the solenoid assembly that should be checked?  It's riveted into place, and I'm not sure how to remove it short of drilling it out.  Thanks.

wlee posted:

I ultimately removed the metal plate and found one solder connection that was broken.  I fixed this and cleaned and lubricated the rest of the switch.  The mechanical function seems much better now, but I'm also seeing a problem with the remote three-wire remote switch controller.  At times, both lamps will go out on the controller.  I've checked to be sure the lamps are not loose (they are the screw base).  When this happens, I do not read any voltage across any of the three terminals on the switch motor.  Also, the controller will no longer work the switch, and the auto-derail feature no longer works.  If I manually throw the switch with the lantern head, the lights will usually come back on and everything works again.  This would seem to indicate a loose connection somewhere but everything I can see looks OK.  Is there anything within the solenoid assembly that should be checked?  It's riveted into place, and I'm not sure how to remove it short of drilling it out.  Thanks.

Have you swapped out the remote control unit with another one and see what happens? Sometimes the remote control unit may have a minor issue like the electrical points inside it need to be cleaned.

Information about switch controls that I have found useful; never try to use an 027 switch control with an O gauge switch, also K-Line switch controls are somewhat different then Lionel switch controls.

Lee Fritz