Skip to main content

Hi everyone,

 

A quick newbie fastrack question surrounding switch geometry, any assistance is appreciated! I'm doing some planning around a track order, and I was curious about the 0-60 switches. I've sorted that a 10" + 4.5" pair of straights equals an 0-60 switch, but I cant figure out how to build a standard passing siding out of the switches. I'm assuming an 0-60 curve piece will bring the siding parallel to the main line, however what straight length is needed to make even the 0-60 curve distance?

 

In other words: to make a passing siding (ignoring straight length) I need a pair of 0-60 switches, a pair of 0-60 curves, and what straight pieces?

 

Advice is appreciated- I'm surprised I didn't find this info in the switch manual?

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Thanks guys- I don't feel as crazy for not figuring it out now. A related question or two:

 

- So an 0-60 curve won't cancel out the switch curve and bring it parallel? (albeit not at the same straight length) if so thats a disappointment, and surprising that the 0-72 does somehow?

 

- on a similar note, if I placed an 0-60 switch at the beginning of a 180 degree curve, (meaning the switch curve is part of the 180 degrees) How does that shake out in terms of track? Do I need just 7 more 0-60 curves to complete 180 degrees?

 

Starting to think i shouldn't have gone 0-60 if they are hard to plan with...

 

Last edited by jpcanton

hey jp,

yes the 060 curve will bring it to parallel. Check the post above with the example attached.

 

No, the 060 switch is too long to replace a curve. You can see how it is longer than a curve section in the attachment. The workaround is to cut of some of the roadbed from the curve to replace the 1 3/8" half-roadbed. It could also be a straight section is you want to make the switch the last curve.

 

I try to stay with 036 & 048 or 072 & 084 to avoid the weird issue. Sometimes, you just can't, so you make it work.

 

That's why I didn't offer the outside passing loop off of the corner, because it doesn't work naturally. You can use any of the 22.5 degree curves or an 048 1/2 curve + and 048 1/4 curve to bring it to parallel. Depends on your engines.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • FasTrack 060 Switch

JP,

   Here is another way to eliminate any frustration on picking FasTrack Switches for your layout.  The Rockwell X2 Portable Table Saw can cut perfect Custom FasTrack Pieces, in any length and curvature you need to accommodate any of the different FasTrack switches you want in your layout design.  You can pick up one of these Rockwell X2 saws at Lowes for about $80.00.  This X2 saw can make custom FasTrack pieces so perfectly you can not tell them from factory made.  If you plan on designing and building FasTrack layouts for many years, this super light X2 is a great tool to have for building FT Layouts.

PCRR/Dave 

 

DSCN1319

Attachments

Images (1)
  • DSCN1319
Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
Originally Posted by Pine Creek Railroad:

JP,

   Here is another way to eliminate any frustration on picking FasTrack Switches for your layout.  The Rockwell X2 Portable Table Saw can cut perfect Custom FasTrack Pieces, in any length and curvature you need to accommodate any of the different FasTrack switches you want in your layout design.  You can pick up one of these Rockwell X2 saws at Lowes for about $80.00.  This X2 saw can make custom FasTrack pieces so perfectly you can not tell them from factory made.  If you plan on designing and building FasTrack layouts for many years, this super light X2 is a great tool to have for building FT Layouts.

PCRR/Dave 

 

DSCN1319

How do you deal with the connecting pins? Do you have some examples of cut track?

cjack,

I believe Forty Rod posted his method in 2012 and the same method is in the appendix to the FasTrack modular specs. v.2.

 

You cut out a piece of the center with 2 cuts to leave the desired length made up of the two remaining ends. They are joined by reaming under the rail of the cut ends with a 7/64" drill bit to clean out the plastic, inserting O gauge tubular track pins, putting super glue on the joint and pressing the halves together. After the first one, you can make good looking pieces.

 

Good for eliminating a group of fitters or the lengths that you can't make. A mini table saw with a cut-off wheel makes nice straight and clean cuts versus a hacksaw and miter box. I do ok with the miter box by clamping the track to the box with a quick clamp.

Originally Posted by jpcanton:

Thanks guys! Carl I missed your earlier post with the 0-60 curve and turnout, my apologies.

 

Looks like I can make it all work somehow. Go figure the oddball 60 is the size I need as several of my engines have an 0-54 minimum and space dictates that 0-72 isn't really an option. Murphys Law as usual!

Like I said, sometimes you have to use it. Do you want the switch in the curve for an outside passing loop? I'll work it out for you. If you look at the filler piece for the switch in the product photo, you'll see how the inside roadbed is trimmed. Do this for the adjoining piece and it fits like it should, replacing a curve.

Add Reply

Post
The Track Planning and Layout Design Forum is sponsored by

AN OGR FORUM CHARTER SPONSOR

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×