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I've learned a lot since getting back into this hobby last year. One area that I still don't get (and honestly have little interest in!) is wiring. I made the below layout and while it works it's got several dead/slow spots. Pretty certain I didn't use the right gauge of wire. The layout is current powered by a Lionel CW-80 though I also have a MTH Z500 100 watt brick/Z Controller combo I can use. My questions are:

1) What gauge of wire should I be using from my transformer to my barrier strips and from my barrier strips to the tracks? I noticed Atlas sells both 16 and 20 gauge. I think I used 22 gauge solid wire which might have been my big mistake.

2) I was going to run power wires to 4 points of each loop and also to each of the three spurs. Overkill? Too little? 

3) I'd like to be able to run two trains since I have two transformers. My understanding of block wiring is that I need to create a break where the inner and outer loops connect so power from one transformer doesn't meet power from the other. What happens when a locomotive goes from the outer loop to the inner loop? At some point one pick up roller on the engine would be getting power from one transformer and the other roller would be getting power from the other transformer. Wouldn't that cause a problem? 

 

 

 

 

5x10 FasTrack layout

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Originally Posted by SeattleSUP:

I've learned a lot since getting back into this hobby last year. One area that I still don't get (and honestly have little interest in!) is wiring. I made the below layout and while it works it's got several dead/slow spots. Pretty certain I didn't use the right gauge of wire. The layout is current powered by a Lionel CW-80 though I also have a MTH Z500 100 watt brick/Z Controller combo I can use. My questions are:

1) What gauge of wire should I be using from my transformer to my barrier strips and from my barrier strips to the tracks? I noticed Atlas sells both 16 and 20 gauge.

I think I used 22 gauge solid wire which might have been my big mistake.

16 gauge stranded would be sufficient. 22g is a little light.

 

2) I was going to run power wires to 4 points of each loop and also to each of the three spurs. Overkill? Too little? 

Try every 4ft. They'll run so smooth. Power and Common.

 

Yes, you can have things fry. I'll let the experts discuss the power division issue.

Last edited by Moonman
I SeattleSUP,
   I really like your track plan. Is it only 5' wide where the sidings are? What software did you use to design it?
 
Originally Posted by SeattleSUP:

I've learned a lot since getting back into this hobby last year. One area that I still don't get (and honestly have little interest in!) is wiring. I made the below layout and while it works it's got several dead/slow spots. Pretty certain I didn't use the right gauge of wire. The layout is current powered by a Lionel CW-80 though I also have a MTH Z500 100 watt brick/Z Controller combo I can use. My questions are:

1) What gauge of wire should I be using from my transformer to my barrier strips and from my barrier strips to the tracks? I noticed Atlas sells both 16 and 20 gauge. I think I used 22 gauge solid wire which might have been my big mistake.

2) I was going to run power wires to 4 points of each loop and also to each of the three spurs. Overkill? Too little? 

3) I'd like to be able to run two trains since I have two transformers. My understanding of block wiring is that I need to create a break where the inner and outer loops connect so power from one transformer doesn't meet power from the other. What happens when a locomotive goes from the outer loop to the inner loop? At some point one pick up roller on the engine would be getting power from one transformer and the other roller would be getting power from the other transformer. Wouldn't that cause a problem? 

 

 

 

 

5x10 FasTrack layout

 

No. The two front sidings are an added 12" I can't make the entire layout 72" because it would interfere with a bedroom door. I also can't go longer than 10' because there's a closet door on the opposite wall. I'll mount the switch controls and transformer under the front sidings. The layout was designed in SCARM which is free and easy to use once you read the tutorials. 

Thanks John. I watched the Lionel video on transformer phasing and fortunately I own the exact same three transformers so that all makes good sense. Would I connect one transformer to the outer loop and the other to the inner loop and then use blocks at the connecting switches? The Lionel video on blocks focused more on sidings and didn't discuss powering two connected loops so I'm still a bit fuzzy on that part. Will there be a problem if one throttle is set at say 30% and the other is at 50% and the train goes from one loop to the other (other than a change in speed)?  

I started with 22 awg solid and thought I was pretty smart. Then got some cheaply made wired rail joiners for my Atlas track on eBay and used them as drops all over the layout. I am now paying for the latter mistake especially in the "valley of death"  036 to 054 to 054 to 036 Atlas switches in series.

 

Take your time and plan using good quality items. My layout is small so 18 awg is stout enough and easy to work with.

In addition to phasing your transformers, try to keep the voltage of both near the same rate when crossing the gap or insulated pin in the crossover. It helps to have some inexpensive 0-25 range AC Panel Voltmeters, one for each power district. Available from Light Object for around $10 each. 

They also have 0-15 amp range panel AC amp meters for about $10.

 

I assume you plan to operate in Conventional mode.  If in Command Control you have no problem since both districts are at a fixed 18 VAC.

Last edited by Dewey Trogdon
Seattle is where I live and SUP stands for Stand-Up Paddleboard. Building wood SUP boards is my other hobby. A SUP looks like a surfboard but bigger (usually 12-18 feet long) and instead of laying down and paddling with your arms you stand and paddle. Here in Seattle we don't have an ocean so there are no waves to surf on. Plus you can use a SUP just about anywhere - lakes, rivers, etc. It's a great workout and a great way to explore waterways. I'm lucky enough that I can combine it with trains. There's a drawbridge in my neighborhood (Ballard) that I can paddle under and get some very unique underside views of trains going overhead. Also the main rail line that runs from Seattle up to Canada hugs the shoreline and the only way you can really see the trains outside of a couple of parks is from the water. If a big BNSF goes by and I'm close enough to the seawall I can feel it in my feet through the water. 
 
Originally Posted by rattler21:

SeattleSUP (a rather unique name),

 

Well I finished running wires this weekend and got my CW-80 connected. More feeders and stouter wire made a HUGE difference. I'm able to crawl my locomotives around the entire layout which will make positioning them next to operating accessories a whole lot easier. Only problem I'm having is there is one spot where my largest locomotive, a MTH GP 45, will die if I try to run it through at a walking pace. It's fine at a faster speed and the problem appears to be that the front roller touches the plastic parts of the crossover at the exact same time the rear roller is touching the plastic surrounding the magnet on the uncoupling track. Without enough momentum it stalls out and needs a manual nudgel Going to swap the order of the uncoupling track and the 1 3/8" connector and see if that solves the problem. 

 

I also still need to take a Dremel tool and cut a slot in the middle rail of the 5" piece between the outer loop and the crossover in the front left corner and then also pull the connector on the 1 3/8" piece between the two O72 switches at the top so I'll have the two loops as blocks and then hook up my second transformer in phase and be able to run two trains at once. 

 

Thanks again for the advice!!

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