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Hi Guys,

 

If one wanted to build a small switching layout with Atlas 0-54 track and turnouts, run three small scale size locomotives in command control at one time, what locomotives or brand would be the best to consider if planning to convert to Kadee couplers? Keep in mind I know some locomotives would have to be converted to command control (TMCC).

 

Many Thanks.

 

Rick.

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You should watch the videos I made about switching with kadees There's a couple different videos. I use Atlas engines with the electro claw and converted some Lionel diesels to kadee as well. Either way will work, some just require more work than others as far as the conversion. The claw does mate up with kadees, so I can use cars with 805's and engines with the 3 rail electro coupler.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjTfq3XU15o&feature=plcp

Rick,

 

I've converted all my engines, 1 Atlas, 4 MTH, and 1 WBB to Kadees and fixed pilots.  All took a certain amount of work (drilling holes, etc), but not hard if you have the tools, time, and are comfortable with doing that type work.

 

Here's my RailKing Imperial 0-6-0 with Kadees on front and rear:

 

 

 

And here's my RailKing NW2:

 

 

Both engines will make great little switchers on any layout.  Both are PS2 and run VERY smooth and slow over switches.

 

I only have an Atlas GP9 so I can't help there, but I sure like it enough to recommend Atlas as well.

Rick,

 

Body-mounted Kadees on 40' freight cars will do O42 curves without problem - but, probably not much tighter than that.

 

50' cars can be pulled through O42 curves with just a flange rubbing on the underside once in a while. But the corners of the cars touch when backing up through those curves.

 

You should be OK with up to 50'ers with your O54 curves.

 

Jim

Last edited by Jim Policastro

Rick,

 

I have 054 on all my switching lines and 072 on the mainline.  The WBB E7 will not negotiate the 054 curves, mainly because of the steps that drop down from the cab doors and the way I mounted them.  The GP9 and others have no issues.  The 3rd Rail E7 I'm getting (hopefully this week!) says it'll negotiate 054 curves, but that may be without Kadees and fixed pilot.  I think the WBB E7 will too if the pilot and steps weren't fixed in place, but then again they're not made for switching duties

 

I wish I had designed my layout to have a simple large radius loop for running a passenger train around while having a more complicated layout below, just for switching.  I think that's why I've stopped work on the scenery, I may end up pulling it up and re-doing everything.

Originally Posted by Rick Bivins:

Thanks Jim P.

 

Now, would it be practical to use an end mill (milling table) to remove material from some cars such as K-Line die-cast two bay hoppers, drill and tap to install Kadee's there on?

 

Rick.

Rick, IF you could be certain of how much material to take off I would say that's the way to go, but most of my cars had to have shims added instead of material removed.

 

Maybe it was just from manufacturer to manufacturer, but I have some that have no shims and others that have almost 1/4" of shim.

I converted 15 of those beauties to 2-rail, and all needed a thick shim of irregular shape. So yes, you probably need an end mill to avoid going nuts with a Swiss file.  It is kind of too bad that K-Line did not make the scale casting like Lionel did.  One really nice guy did make them, but he wished to remain anonymous.  If you squint your eyes, you cannot tell these things from the Lionel 716 hopper.     

Rick,

 

Sounds like you're already on your way

 

1st thing, get a Kadee coupler height gauge.  I think they're $15 but worth it.

 

Next thing you know you'll be eye-balling each and every piece of rolling stock you have, checking to see if the trucks are the correct type and if they're in the correct time frame for your layout.  But remember...baby steps!

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