Car Works CB&Q VO-1000

im only powering one truck, tank drive killed the model’s appearance. Tsunami 2 on board, speaker needs enclosure.

Some added fuel tank details, the inside is filled with weights to improve traction. 

Yes sir, that is nice! Great job. 

This has to be one of my favourite switchers, so you have my attention!           cTr...( Choose the Right )

I have had All Nation single truck powered drives.    I was not happy with them.   No matter how much weight was added, they still did not pull anywhere near was a the 8 wheel powered ones would pull.      I hope yours works for you.    It should pull 8-10 cars on level track pretty easily.

It is a compromise...  I just couldn’t live w the tank drive... It pulls 2-3 HW brass cars with some effort... could pull 5-7 Atlas CZ cars easily. It’s a switcher, so I it’ll only pull a couple cars here and there but I agree with you...

For me this is a no, no..

Being an a 3RS (+/-) and not a 2RS, I'm grossly under-qualified to appraise the situation but that won't stop me from asking a stupid question:  What prevents you from powering the rear truck in the same manner, after replacing the single shaft motor with a double, and stuffing the electronics & speaker under the motor and inside the fuel tank?  More weights could be added on the rear to mirror those on the front, under the drive shaft, and you have sound/control, weight and 8 wheel drive.  I know that you're an artist and a collector, not a throttle puller, but still I cannot imagine you settling for second best.

The way these drives are set up, there simply isn’t room for a second drive tower because of the proximity of the cab

DRAT!

Not willing to quit, this easily, let me ask if the entire drive mechanism (motor & chain drives) could be lowered sufficiently to provide adequate clearance?  I'm sure this has occurred to you but, purportedly, the only really stupid question is the one not asked.

RTH! It's a matter of length not of height. I appreciate the insistence tho. Too much back slapping on this forum these days 

I thought about NWSL stanton drives but was adviced not go that route by a few fellow modelers.... 

Nuts.

Yeah, there's too much undeserved back slapping.  On the other hand, your "slaps" are well deserved.  So, there.

Santiago

Ditch those cute little lead weights and add a couple tungsten copper alloy cylinders in place.  Pull will increase dramatically.  Tungsten -copper is 1.5 times denser (heavier) than lead.  You can get virtually any size you need from Mi-Tech Metals:

https://www.mttm.com/tungsten-...y-crankshaft-weights

Crankshaft store:

https://store.mttm.com/cranksh...396324234.1568645918

Oh, and nice job by the way. 

Thanks, John. I'll look into it.

Nifty locomotive!   Housekeeping detail:   Burlington's Baldwins were concentrated (per locomotive assignment sheet from 03-01-55) on the Chicago Division (13 units), particularly switching Clyde Yard, and North Kansas City, MO (17 units).  Most - if not all - of Burlington's steam power came from Baldwin, so not surprising the Q threw some early diesel business to Baldwin.

Do you guys know where the bell was located on VO-1000 and particularly in Burlington ones?

I got an OMI can interior from Bill Davis coming my way! 

Added the rain gutters today...

As stated on the OP, this engine won’t be a blackbird it will be an as delivered all black version.