Ceiling Lighting - New Construction

I installed dimmable, warm white troffers in the ceiling of my train room.  When I'm working on the layout, or just sitting in there reading, picking up, etc., the evenly distributed light works well for me.  I expect I will add track lighting to highlight specific scenes later on.

If you're leaning toward track lighting, I recommend LED fixtures because incandescents pull a lot more power and add heat to the room - something that may be welcome in the winter, but not so much in the summer.

I have recessed lighting throughout the basement where my old layout was. I put them on a dimmer that allowed me to have multiple lighting options. In addition, I used a wide variety of lights in the can's with directional eyes. I like it, still use it. 

I'm very glad I had dimmer-switches installed for all the lights, including for the buildings that light-up throughout the layout..

and, as you can see here...

I used track-lights and like them because I can reach up and redirect them, from time to time.

I would recommend recessed LED lighting.  Make sure it is dimmable.  Here is the ones I used in a recent renovation of three rooms in my home.  They're from Home Depot.

As you can tell from the picture, I'm partial to black ceilings and track lighting. The track lighting is 2 circuits, with 5000K LED bulbs.  l like the idea of being able to direct the lighting to a specific location on the layout. My only regret is not buying more fixtures. I also have recessed 4' fluorescent lights which were installed way before I put in the track system. 

The other thing I did was to paint the walls a much darker (richer?) blue than the traditional "sky blue" or "robin's egg blue". I like the way the clouds stand out against the blue.

Chris

LVHR

When you're starting from a blank slate as you are, enjoy the fabulous array of choices that are out there today!  It's a brave new world of sorts when it comes to lighting.  I'll echo what Chris said above re: black ceilings.  Mine are white.  But if I had to do things over again, I'd go with black ceilings.  If you're using acoustic tiles (i.e., suspended ceilings), black is usually a slight up-charge over the more common white options.

As for lighting, I would go two routes:  high-hats (or recessed lights) for "basic" room lighting, and track lighting for directing the light to specific areas of the layout.

There are TONS of options today that simply didn't even exist yesterday.  If budget is not as big a concern for you, take a look at the Philips HUE "smart LED" system.  I chose this route, and couldn't have timed my purchases better in that Best Buy and Home Depot had HUGE sales on these lights just this past Black Friday / Cyber Monday weekend.  Philips must have been having a special promotion, so the stores passed the great pricing along to consumers.  Lights that were normally $50/each could be purchased for $30/each.  Still not chump change, but a very timely discount nonetheless, since I was planning to purchase close to 3 dozen lights.    I purchased the BR30 HUE lights for my train room's high-hats and some of the track lighting as well.  The BR30 lights fit perfectly into room's recessed lighting as well as into PAR38 track-lighting units.  These serve both the basic room lighting needs, as well as broad directed flood lights on the train layout.  I also purchased PAR16 HUE lights that serve as narrower spotlights for those areas of the train layout that I wanted to highlight specifically. 

Now here's the kicker with a smart-system such as Philips HUE:  the lights can be programmed to change color (and intensity level) with your iPhone or iPad with readily available apps (i.e., from Philips as well as independent 3rd parties).  The effects are impressive, and I can't wait to try this all out on my new layout in a couple of weeks.  In particular, I plan to use white lights for daylight running, then switch to blue/violet lights to simulate night-time running... all with the same light units.  No need to purchase different color lights, because EACH light can produce an array of colors.  If you go with a system such as Philips HUE, be sure to get the latest "third generation" bulbs wherever possible, as they have more vivid color capabilities.

When it comes to track lighting, don't skimp on the quantity -- nor the quality.  As you will find out, good lighting is EVERYTHING.  I went with Lightolier track AND track-light head-units.  Lightolier has 3 track systems: two "older" style systems -- a "one circuit" track called Basic, and a "two-circuit" track called Advent.  More recently, their third system was introduced and is a much "lower profile" design called Radius.  The latter system being newer is slightly less expensive than the earlier systems, and the various special components like L's, T-s, ceiling clips (for suspended ceilings), and power-routing connectors are more readily available.

For the actual lighting head-units, I also went with Lightolier because the same units can be used on all three of their track systems.  I had the older 2-circuit track installed years ago on the dry wall soffits of our finished basement.  And when I chose to add additional lighting a few weeks ago directly on the suspended ceiling tiles, I chose the newer, low-profile Radius track and had it installed directly along the grids of the suspended ceiling. You hardly can see the new track it blends in so well.  And the Lightolier head-units work on either track systems, which is an added bonus.

The world is your oyster in terms of head-unit styles.  So I recommend going with a "complete system" rather than just buying one-off, Home Depot knock-off track lights.  The Lightolier lights I chose actually can be purchased in two or more pieces:  a head-unit that goes directly into the track, and then a shade attachment that can be one of several styles (cone, bezel, ring, etc...).   Additionally, accessories are available for each light head that allow for special light modification.  Many of my lights have hex cell louvers (or grids) over the light, so as to direct the light better AND reduce the glare of the lights when viewing them from the side.  When you have an around-the-perimeter-of-the-room layout design, this is less of an issue... since the lights will typically be directed toward the walls and/or train layout AWAY from your eyes.  However, when you have a walk-around, island layout in the middle of the room, you'll be walking around the layout and some of the lighting may be in the view of your eyes at times -- which can be a rather bright distraction depending on the height of your ceiling and your viewing angle to certain scenes of the layout.  THAT's where the grids/louvers come in VERY handy.  Trust me on this... they've made a HUGE difference, so I've employed them extensively with my lighting configuration.  So if these kinds of subtleties are important to you, go with a "system" that accommodates these light modifiers and allows easy configuration of light shade attachments.

Oh yes... one last word about the lights themselves.  Plan your purchases and light-switch controls carefully.  With incandescent and halogen lights, dimmers were fairly commonplace.  And compatibility was much less an issue.  With LED's, it's an entirely different story.  My train room has 4 light circuits -- controlled by Decora-style switches in a 4-gang box.  One of these is a Lutron dimmer that controls the one circuit of track lights that I chose to keep as the older halogen style, which lights up the walls of the room (including a colorful custom backdrop as well as train shelves).  The other three switches are simple on/off switches for the other 3 light circuits in the room.  Standard dimmers don't work with these smart LED lights.  Instead, these lights are dimmed through a special unit called the Philips Hub, which is actually a WiFi-based hub (connected to your whole-house WiFi router) that allows individual lights and groups of lights to be controlled/dimmed with your iPhone or iPad (or even voice-activated by Alexa and other similar technologies).  I'm not big on the voice-activated stuff... just isn't my cup of tea.  But I'm very impressed with what can be done using the iPhone/iPad to change light levels and colors in the room.  I've only just begun experimenting with this technology, but it's got great potential to run "scripts" that automatically run timed daytime-to-nightime sequences (and vice versa).

As I said earlier, the technology treadmill is moving at lightning speed here.  And much of this "smart home" stuff is VERY new, and only in its infancy -- or perhaps didn't even exist -- as recently as 5 years ago.  So have fun getting up to speed on these new technologies.  Don't rush into things.  Look at what's right for you.  And make your choices accordingly.    It'll be a big investment for sure.  Hope this helps!!!

Good lighting can make a WORLD of difference, and bring your enjoyment level of the trains and your layout's scenery to new heights that need to be experienced rather than just talked about in words.     

Thank you everyone so much for their input! I really appreciate the advice and the information. The picture really helps when describing the black ceiling effect. It really helps the colors pop on the layout and backdrop. 

I also use the Philips Hue Lights on my Basement layout, not the cheapest thing in the world, but I like what you can do with them. More than likely if I am able to I will have those be the primary light sources in the basement when we do get a chance to redo our basement. 

We went with tracks and halogen spots and floods; makes it easy to adjust lighting.  Nice warm even coverage that we can dim for evening and night time running.  Used the smaller lights and wire housings.

I can echo what Rocky Mountaineer wrote above. I would add Cooper/ Halo to the list of excellent quality track systems. The new Phillips LED's and smartphone app are pretty cool too. If you want some good advice go to a local lighting store or electrical supply house. They will steer you in the right direction. The cost of the LED's is steep but there's a good chance you will never have to replace them.

Two sets of lights- fluorescent for working, and tracks for running, are recommended also.

Notice the location of Frank's (Moonson) track lights. They should be placed behind and above the viewing location as much as possible to reduce shadows and glare for visitors.

Good luck!

Just throwing in my 2 cents.I know "incandescent" has become politicaly incorrect, but don't expect the "dimmable" LED replacements to dim like the old version bulbs.Nick

Halogen lights one can dim, in tracks on the suspended ceiling.  You can them aim them, spots and/or floods, to specific highlights.

Having them now I would not use a different system .... for ours.

Agreed, those lights are the way to go, but wow !  what a layout.  We're looking forward to further posts !

Eric,

   I have the new LED recessed lighting that can be dimmed in my new Train Room/Bar in our new home, and I love it.   IMO Dan Padova is right on the money with his suggestion of Recessed LED lighting for a Train Room seriously nice stuff both for working and running.

PCRR/Dave

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Eric,

   I have the new LED recessed lighting that can be dimmed in my new Train Room/Bar in our new home, and I love it.   IMO Dan Padova is right on the money with his suggestion of Recessed LED lighting for a Train Room seriously nice stuff both for working and running.

PCRR/Dave

 

Dave, I like what your saying, may I ask what the separation from one can to the other is? As in how far apart in all directions?

Mike G,

   I will have to measure for ya, I do not know the spacing, the builders installed them when they upgraded the building.  Remember also my ceiling is stark white and that makes a big difference in how many recessed LED lights you will need in your Train Room.

PCRR/Dave

Thanks Dave. 

"Two sets of lights - fluorescent for working, and tracks for running, are recommended also."

I wouldn't use fluorescent under any circumstances.  LED shop lights are available and use far less electricity and emit no UV.  I have found the 5000k LEDs to be excellent work lights - but they won't be on when the train run.  They just don't look right.  So, I use dimmable LED track lights.

Dan Padova posted:

I would recommend recessed LED lighting.  Make sure it is dimmable.  Here is the ones I used in a recent renovation of three rooms in my home.  They're from Home Depot.

 

These are basically the ones I used along with another brand. I am very pleased with the lights and they are pretty economical. The very first one I bought to test was something like $30 + the price of the can. The last ones I tried, were under $20 each. Lately I saw a quantity pack of four for something like I paid for one!

Big Mike G,

   Measured the LED Lighting placement for ya, 4 1/2' wide and 10' long center to center spacing, the LED's light up a big room and show off a running O Gauge Train very nicely.

PCRR/Dave

Thanks Dave! You rock! I will probably still put 6 total in my future 12' W X 24' L!

Big Mike G,

  Engineer-Joe is right get the good ones that can be used with a reastadt so you can adjust the light intensity, or you are going to have a super bright room!

PCRR/Dave

Vthokies2007-2011 posted:

Hi Guys,

  I am finishing my basement room that will host my train layout. It is all new construction, so I have a question. Is it better to put in recessed lighting or do track lighting for the layout? I am thinking of the following factors: evenly distributed light and presentation of the lights. I am weighing presentation more, as I have the ability to add as many lights to make sure lighting is evenly distributed. 

Thank you,

Eric 

Eric,

In my opinion, you need track lighting (two curcuit) at a minimum. Then recessed and LED's, depending on the layout.

Oh, and a black ceiling....

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Big Mike G,

  Engineer-Joe is right get the good ones that can be used with a reastadt so you can adjust the light intensity, or you are going to have a super bright room!

PCRR/Dave

Thanks Dave, I am guessing a reastadt is a dimmer switch?

Big Mike G,

   Roger that!  Guess I am just showing my age, dimmer switches are actually the same item.

PCRR/Dave

Thank you everyone for the posts! AUBV, the lighting along the backdrop is superb! I am going to install recessed lighting, and then potentially some additional track lighting where I can adjust the position of the heads. I will post some pictures of the room I am finishing. Not the best pictures, but here you guys go... Room: Left to Right. (Left side is a little nook that is pushed back).

Engineer-Joe posted:

Dan Padova posted:

I would recommend recessed LED lighting.  Make sure it is dimmable.  Here is the ones I used in a recent renovation of three rooms in my home.  They're from Home Depot.

 

These are basically the ones I used along with another brand. I am very pleased with the lights and they are pretty economical. The very first one I bought to test was something like $30 + the price of the can. The last ones I tried, were under $20 each. Lately I saw a quantity pack of four for something like I paid for one!

I am really happy because I just saw that my local Costco is now stocking these!

vthokies2007-2011 posted:

Thank you everyone for the posts! AUBV, the lighting along the backdrop is superb! I am going to install recessed lighting, and then potentially some additional track lighting where I can adjust the position of the heads. I will post some pictures of the room I am finishing. Not the best pictures, but here you guys go... Room: Left to Right. (Left side is a little nook that is pushed back).

Don't know where the layout is going but make sure you maintain access to the plumbing behind the bathroom in the first photo. It would be a shame to rip out part of a layout to fix a leaking pipe.

Bob

mike g. posted:

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Big Mike G,

  Engineer-Joe is right get the good ones that can be used with a reastadt so you can adjust the light intensity, or you are going to have a super bright room!

PCRR/Dave

Thanks Dave, I am guessing a reastadt is a dimmer switch?

Mike- watch that the dimmers are rated for LED's. Most everything is today but some older stock could still be floating around in the stores. The better ones have a low end adjustment in them that will allow the light to go down to almost 0 foot-candles before going out.

Bob

My still-in-progress basement train room (which will have an around-the-wall layout) has an open black ceiling, two 4-foot long LED fixtures down the open center for basic room lighting and for working, and LED track lights for layout lighting. Track lights are on dimmable switches. Basic benchwork construction begins soon...probably the day after Christmas. The benchwork is being built to my specs by the contractor who has handled most all of my house renovations since early August. Lumber, etc. for the benchwork was purchased today, including 19 sheets of 3/4" plywood, 32 2x4s, and a number of other items including trim for where the wallboard meets the open ceiling joists, etc. Ample electrical outlets are already installed on all walls, and the train room has a dedicated circuit breaker. A fascia will also be installed along the full length of the layout and he is adding off-the-floor storage shelves under all areas of the layout. 

aubv posted:

Vthokies2007-2011 posted:

Hi Guys,

  I am finishing my basement room that will host my train layout. It is all new construction, so I have a question. Is it better to put in recessed lighting or do track lighting for the layout? I am thinking of the following factors: evenly distributed light and presentation of the lights. I am weighing presentation more, as I have the ability to add as many lights to make sure lighting is evenly distributed. 

Thank you,

Eric 

Eric,

In my opinion, you need track lighting (two curcuit) at a minimum. Then recessed and LED's, depending on the layout.

Oh, and a black ceiling....

 

WOW! There are layouts and then.... there are these! Stunning.

I have to start over......

Fr44aming and insulation is looking great! 

Bob thanks for the heads up, I would have never thought to check!

Allan Miller posted:

My still-in-progress basement train room (which will have an around-the-wall layout) has an open black ceiling, two 4-foot long LED fixtures down the open center for basic room lighting and for working, and LED track lights for layout lighting. Track lights are on dimmable switches. Basic benchwork construction begins soon...probably the day after Christmas. The benchwork is being built to my specs by the contractor who has handled most all of my house renovations since early August. Lumber, etc. for the benchwork was purchased today, including 19 sheets of 3/4" plywood, 32 2x4s, and a number of other items including trim for where the wallboard meets the open ceiling joists, etc. Ample electrical outlets are already installed on all walls, and the train room has a dedicated circuit breaker. A fascia will also be installed along the full length of the layout and he is adding off-the-floor storage shelves under all areas of the layout. 

Allan,

Fwiw, Mahogany fascia looks nice.

vthokies2007-2011 posted:

Thank you everyone for the posts! AUBV, the lighting along the backdrop is superb! I am going to install recessed lighting, and then potentially some additional track lighting where I can adjust the position of the heads. I will post some pictures of the room I am finishing. Not the best pictures, but here you guys go... Room: Left to Right. (Left side is a little nook that is pushed back).

In the second picture, you can see the valance I had made to hide the LED's for this layout. Prior to this, the back drop had a very noticeable scalloping. 

When it comes to track lighting, a 2 circuit track should follow the front plane of the layout but set in about 1' from the front edge. You never know where you will need lights, that is why track light with very small fixtures works so well.

aubv posted:

vthokies2007-2011 posted:

Thank you everyone for the posts! AUBV, the lighting along the backdrop is superb! I am going to install recessed lighting, and then potentially some additional track lighting where I can adjust the position of the heads. I will post some pictures of the room I am finishing. Not the best pictures, but here you guys go... Room: Left to Right. (Left side is a little nook that is pushed back).

In the second picture, you can see the valance I had made to hide the LED's for this layout. Prior to this, the back drop had a very noticeable scalloping. 

When it comes to track lighting, a 2 circuit track should follow the front plane of the layout but set in about 1' from the front edge. You never know where you will need lights, that is why track light with very small fixtures works so well.

Are your LEDs the RGBY strip lights?