How do I know which coupler to choose? I went to Kadee's website and promptly got freaked out. Also, how do you make the conversion? I haven't checked Youtube yet. Does anyone know of any videos or other source of instruction?
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You want to watch forum member Laidoff sick video on Kadee couplers.
Did you see/read the sticky above "How to convert to Kadee couplers"?
Hot Water posted:Did you see/read the sticky above "How to convert to Kadee couplers"?
Yes. That's helpful, but why 805? There are several model numbers of Kadees. Are they all the essentially the same, just different materials or colors? Also, as I was thinking about it, I'm not sure I can use Kadees. I have a relatively small layout with O42 curves and one O31. Will Kadees work on those radius? What makes Lionel too difficult for the beginner? I have numerous Lionel cars.
740 is the only one I use now. If you want to couple up to 3 rail couplers, use the 805. The 740 is compatible with the 805s, but if you want to do hands free switching.... the 805 does work better for that.
I use the 746 on cars like the auto racks or 89' flat cars, and some passenger cars because they have the extended shank.
805 primary for me. I'm sure I'll run into a situation where one of the other o scale couplers will fit but not to date. I've converted MTH, Weaver, and AtlasO cars with 805 with no issues. As Hot Water stated, check out all the threads here on how too.
Laidoffsick posted:740 is the only one I use now. If you want to couple up to 3 rail couplers, use the 805. The 740 is compatible with the 805s, but if you want to do hands free switching.... the 805 does work better for that.
I use the 746 on cars like the auto racks or 89' flat cars, and some passenger cars because they have the extended shank.
#740s for me as well.
Fronts of the motive power get Protocraft for looks.
only exception are the new designs for the truck-mounted Kadees, that get the #747s.
plenty of videos out there... oh Google!
thanks,
Mario
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Basil posted:...... but why 805? There are several model numbers of Kadees. Are they all the essentially the same, just different materials or colors? Also, as I was thinking about it, I'm not sure I can use Kadees. I have a relatively small layout with O42 curves and one O31. Will Kadees work on those radius? What makes Lionel too difficult for the beginner? I have numerous Lionel cars.
The 805 and 804 are the same - the former is metal and the latter acetal plastic - I use them interchangeable and neither have ever failed - some folks just are married to metal.
The other models are rather recent variations - effectively the same, but some are rather better for specific cars and engine situations.
The Kadees will work, but whether the cars will work on those tight a curve is very dependent on the car length - shorter cars will not be a problem; larger on body mounted couplers become one.
Is Lionel too difficult.....well, their products haven't got a very long track record of being intended for 2 rail scale conversion and some are very straightforward, some really close to being drop in ready, and some then are just a PITA.
I suspect that if you present specific cars and such information that there will be people here that can advise you not only on what model Kadee to use but also how to install them
Have you got a coupler height gauge? Sort of a must have item......
mwb posted:
Have you got a coupler height gauge? Sort of a must have item......
Thank you for the info!
If I have learned anything from the OGR, it's to learn first, buy second! I don't own anything yet, but am picking up interest in switching to Kadees. My last hold up will be the loss of remote couplers on my locomotives unless I keep them with a transition car. I really like those remote couplers on my proto 2 & 3 engines!
Basil posted:mwb posted:
Have you got a coupler height gauge? Sort of a must have item......
Thank you for the info!
If I have learned anything from the OGR, it's to learn first, buy second! I don't own anything yet, but am picking up interest in switching to Kadees. My last hold up will be the loss of remote couplers on my locomotives unless I keep them with a transition car. I really like those remote couplers on my proto 2 & 3 engines!
You might not even need a "transition car" as many of the various manufacturers "remote couplers", or properly referred to as "electro-couplers" will couple nicely with the Kadee #805 O Scale coupler. Not so with the newer #740 series Kadee couplers.
I still have the electro couplers on my engines . . . but I love/hate them too. Yes, I love being able to drop a train anywhere. But picking up, even a heavy train is frequently a "slam" operation. A single car? Forget that! You'll end up slamming them together by hand. So, are the electro couplers really worth keeping? I am coming to the conclusion that they are not. And they look just terrible!
It's a personal matter, and there are those here that bridle at any deprecation of the claws. Their choice. I find them hideous! That huge ole claw sticking out the pilot of a beautiful, otherwise scale, diesel is just grotesque IMO. On the tender of a steamer, they are tolerable.
I reentered the hobby a couple of years ago. Likely too hastily. Probably should have gone two rail but that's a decision hard to undo with thousands of dollars of locomotives and rolling stock already purchased. One thing I can do is to get rid of the claws. All my cars, with two transition cars as the exception, have K-Ds. I feel the locomotives soon will have as well and the transition cars will be converted.
When first starting to go to K-Ds, I was certainly confused. The best defense I found was overkill, meaning buy a selection of different K-Ds, extra springs and, of course, the height gauge. I also bought a goodly selection of screws, M72, 2-56 and a tap and die. I started using spacers cut from sheet styrene as spacers. A real nuisance. Ready made spacers are available and, while costly for what they are, are worth it in terms of ease of use and the neat install they permit. I found myself determined to do everything and some manufactures and vintages do not make it easy. The "nuclear option" is a Dremel and I use it ruthlessly! "But you can't go back?" No you can't. Not an issue for me.
Don't get discouraged at the outset. It will all make sense pretty quickly. You'll soon learn what you need most of and likely a few things you buy may never be needed.
Now, the wisdom of using KDs on 0-31 and O-42 is a whole other matter! That may not be wise at all! Or you may be OK with long shank K-Ds? It should not be hard to find out. Try two cars, a K-D draft gear box on one end of each. See what happens with the standard shank. No go? Swap in two long shanks and try again? Still no go? Maybe forget K-Ds for those curve radii then.
Watch Laidoffsick's videos as others have recommended. Very informative, he does a very good job of explaining the how to's of switching to Kadee's.
Terry Danks posted:I still have the electro couplers on my engines . . . but I love/hate them too. Yes, I love being able to drop a train anywhere. But picking up, even a heavy train is frequently a "slam" operation. A single car? Forget that! You'll end up slamming them together by hand. So, are the electro couplers really worth keeping? I am coming to the conclusion that they are not. And they look just terrible!
It's a personal matter, and there are those here that bridle at any deprecation of the claws. Their choice. I find them hideous! That huge ole claw sticking out the pilot of a beautiful, otherwise scale, diesel is just grotesque IMO. On the tender of a steamer, they are tolerable.
I reentered the hobby a couple of years ago. Likely too hastily. Probably should have gone two rail but that's a decision hard to undo with thousands of dollars of locomotives and rolling stock already purchased. One thing I can do is to get rid of the claws. All my cars, with two transition cars as the exception, have K-Ds. I feel the locomotives soon will have as well and the transition cars will be converted.
When first starting to go to K-Ds, I was certainly confused. The best defense I found was overkill, meaning buy a selection of different K-Ds, extra springs and, of course, the height gauge. I also bought a goodly selection of screws, M72, 2-56 and a tap and die. I started using spacers cut from sheet styrene as spacers. A real nuisance. Ready made spacers are available and, while costly for what they are, are worth it in terms of ease of use and the neat install they permit. I found myself determined to do everything and some manufactures and vintages do not make it easy. The "nuclear option" is a Dremel and I use it ruthlessly! "But you can't go back?" No you can't. Not an issue for me.
Don't get discouraged at the outset. It will all make sense pretty quickly. You'll soon learn what you need most of and likely a few things you buy may never be needed.
Now, the wisdom of using KDs on 0-31 and O-42 is a whole other matter! That may not be wise at all! Or you may be OK with long shank K-Ds? It should not be hard to find out. Try two cars, a K-D draft gear box on one end of each. See what happens with the standard shank. No go? Swap in two long shanks and try again? Still no go? Maybe forget K-Ds for those curve radii then.
This is excellent. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this response. Perhaps because I can relate to your third paragraph and could type those words myself!
