Culvert Loader 6-12982...Lionel Tip?

A suggestion ... inasmuch as the TALK TO US feature at Lionel LLC now seems overwhelmed or short-staffed, contact Mike Reagan at TRAINWORX EAST:

FYI, Mike R. is a former illumerati at Lionel.

Mike Mottler   LCCA 12394

This was from back in ~1998, think Mike R was still running TAS then, so may not have detailed recollection on this piece.

From (foggy   ) memory, I seem to recall there might have been something relating to adjusting the position of the micro switch that is mounted on the beam.  This switch triggers the trolley changing direction after the culvert drops.  (or perhaps triggers the direction change, thereby dropping the culvert on the way back, like I said slightly foggy memory )

-Dave

Dave...

You're probably on the right track (no pun intended!).

But the trolley begins its return BEFORE the culvert drops.  Not by much, but enough so that only by keeping the railroad track tucked close to the structure wall is the drop close enough to the center of the car to avoid having the culvert roll to a catawampus position.  If I were to shave off the ends of the track ties (gargraves) I could probably bring the car even closer to proper drop position.  But, then, there would be other interferences of cars/engines using this same spur track with the accessory......not good.

I'll see if I can find this microswitch you refer to.  Perhaps it can be moved to allow the trolley carrying the culvert to overshoot the car/track center line a bit on its initial traverse.  Then, if the trolley begins its return before releasing the culvert, the drop point will be more in keeping with where it should be.  Maybe?

Thanks, again, for the help!

KD

KD, mine had the same issue when this first came out. I sent it in to "Meeshagan" way back when. The fix was indeed, as described by Dave, moving the micro switches located on the overhead rail to a tiny bit more inward position. I could see the original tiny holes on the rail that were left from the original mounting position when the unit was returned to me.

John

The micro switches just dictate the stop positions on each end. The claws should release as soon as it starts traveling the other direction.   There was an issue with the culverts having very sharp edges.  So they didn’t drop when they should as the sort of hung on the claws. Check your culvert edges.  I just sanded mine to a smooth almost rounded edge and the culverts started dropping perfectly.  May not be your issue but a quick fix if it is.

I remember them sending me a whole replacement crossbeam with switches. As the original beam holes were fixed.

Yea I just drilled new holes in the crossbeam and moved the switch over.

John Meyncke posted:

KD, mine had the same issue when this first came out. I sent it in to "Meeshagan" way back when. The fix was indeed, as described by Dave, moving the micro switches located on the overhead rail to a tiny bit more inward position. I could see the original tiny holes on the rail that were left from the original mounting position when the unit was returned to me.

John

 

John...

Any chance you still have the Loader and could take a close-up photo of the rail showing the old/new micro switch mounting holes/screws?  Not asking for disassembly of anything....I can interpret dimensions from a photo of the rail just as she stands on the accessory.

If you don't have the accessory any longer, or posting a photo not possible, perhaps another forumite might have this 'Michigan' modification to share a photo thereof???

I think i'm getting closer to a solution here!

KD

Gweedo posted:

Yea I just drilled new holes in the crossbeam and moved the switch over.

Can do!....   Any photo/dimensional help?

Thanks for consideration!

KD

SandJam posted:

The micro switches just dictate the stop positions on each end. The claws should release as soon as it starts traveling the other direction.   There was an issue with the culverts having very sharp edges.  So they didn’t drop when they should as the sort of hung on the claws. Check your culvert edges.  I just sanded mine to a smooth almost rounded edge and the culverts started dropping perfectly.  May not be your issue but a quick fix if it is.

Sean...

Maybe this does indeed have something to do with the variability, if nothing else.  I've been working with one package of the culverts...8 of them...and tonight I checked the edges.  Yep, I find some of them have burrs, sharp edges.  On my way to the workshop now to clean them up.

I believe the positioning of the micro switch is another key step.  I hope I can get some photo/dimensional help in this area, too.

KD

Looks like I  drilled the holes for the switch 1/4" out,  away from the building. This is loader from around 1998 or so. Wow didn't know about the pipes back then. Might have been a easier fix.

KD, I'll take a photo set of my rail and switches to show how Lionel repaired it and email it to you in the morning. It has worked flawlessly for years since they fixed it.

John

Looks here:

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...e28b44361646474c4a2d

Lionel may have the modified cross beam in stock. I would call them. 

I need to close out this thread on a very positive note. Problem Solved!! 

...with a shout out to John Meyncke who emailed photos of his modified culvert beam/track showing the new switch position.  THANKS JOHN!!!

John graciously agreed to have me attach his photos to this thread so others who might experience this culvert drop issue will have the information to make the change.  The two holes (I used a #47 drill bit) were moved outward on the beam by 0.40"....based on John's photo with the taped scale attached.  And that resulted in a MUCH better drop of the culvert into the car!...

As John pointed out...look closely at the first photo...Lionel apparently made two sets of holes in determining the best micro switch position.  The screw heads show the second...successful...holes to be about 0.4" from the original set.  

The last photo shows a further modification John made to his loader.  He removed the man holding the trolley control tether, and replaced it with a railing/platform of sytrene construction, painted a matching red.  Well done, John!!

I also want to give a shout out to Sean...  He was spot on with the rough edges/inner surface of the metal culverts.  Cleaning them up with a jewelers file and emery paper made them smooth as a baby's butt, and I've no doubt it aids in the smoothness of the release.  Thanks Sean!!

This experience reminds me why this forum is so valuable!!

Time to celebrate!

KD

Well, I'm glad I was able to include my finger tip in the photo ( to give a sense of scale...)

Lol,

John

I have a different problem on my loader. The gripper will release the culvert at different times along the beam. sometimes after  moving 2 inches, sometimes half way to the car. Any tips on correcting this?

GPTOM...

Try backing off the two screws on the top surface of the motor drive.  For clarification, check the second (middle) photo above....there are four (4) screws on the top horizontal surface of the traversing unit.  The two closest to the beam end....back those off about 1/4 turn and see if your problem improves/changes.  

If I understand your problem description, you're losing your culvert on the way TO the car.  I can't relate to that.  All of my problems...and apparently John/Sean had the same...seemed to be regarding proper release of the culvert at the start of the return to 'home' position.  Even there, I had a bit of residual variation between the plastic traversing motor drive and the sheet metal frames of the claw, which moves somewhat independently.  Relaxing those two screws a mere 1/4 turn seemed to have a benefit in helping this, too.

(Update March 5, 2018:  As it turns out my suggestion in the above two paragraphs is worthless and totally off the mark in retrospect!  See my entry below, same date, as to what REALLY improved the trolley motion!!!)

But, the biggest gain, far and away, was moving the micro switch mounting.

I've decided that this whole scenario is not unlike a lot of Lionel's accessories.  There's always some improvement one can make resulting in more reliable operation.   OTOH, sometimes the variation (Milkman throwing the milk cans out the door of the milk car, having them land helter-skelter......always good for smiles, giggles, laughs.

KD

GPTOM,

also check to see if the interior of the beam surface is clean and free of debris or sticky stuff. I've noticed when the drive wheel or guide wheels encounter resistance it might be causing the claw to open at the point of obstruction.

Like my friend KD implies, endless adjustments...a lifetime of enjoyment. Keep us posted on your progress,

John

I have filed the inside of each culvert. It appeared that some had done some grinding. Do I need to grind the weld on the inside? I still need to check the beam. Thanks for the help.

I think the drop micro switch has already been been moved to the outside