I always had to go back and deburr with a jeweler's file after cutting with a Dremel. Don't know of any slick way of cutting flush and smooth in one pass.

micro-mark's

PROXXON Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80 - YouTube

jaws fits Gargrave track

with a

Perma-Grit Tungsten Carbide Abrasive Blade For MicroLux Tilt Arbor Table Saw And Proxxon Chop Saw

I use a Dremel cut off wheel. But with any fine cutting, you have to clean it up. I use a file to take the burrs off the rail top and sides, and use a round file to clean the inside. It's something that has to be done. No difference than making a fine cabinet, and sanding the cut edges for a smooth finish.

RAY

I would suggest trying a very fine tooth hobby saw (hand held), non powered to actually cut the steel of the track.  Since the teeth are slowly abrading away the steel, there should be no flash to clean up.  Anyone ever tried this, and have a saw they like for this task?  If using a hacksaw blade, I would use at least a 32 teeth per inch. Problem with a hacksaw blade is that the are wavy, and cut with a wider kerf.  I don't know if they come any finer than this, but hobby blades should be available with more teeth per inch.

I also use a reinforced fibre cutoff wheel. Gargraves sells them specifically for this task but can be had from third parties too. The are about 1 1/2 in diameter and thicker and take a lot of abuse. Make your cuts then use the same wheel to clean up any burrs.

Pete

Yes, maybe a different cutoff wheel for the saw is worth a try.  I bought the HF saw and Rikon sander based upon forum member suggestions HERE and I really like both of them.

I may try another 6" cutoff wheel just for the heck of it as some of you have suggested.  Otherwise the jewelers file method is fine for the burrs and flashing..............OK, the Gargraves cutoff wheel is a 2" Gyros wheel for a Dremel.  I actually have those for mine.  I'll check the Proxxon wheel Alan suggested.

Thanks,

John

I think you are doing the same way we all do it. I don't put much effort into the sides. I usually go lightly around the edges with sandpaper or a needle file and give the top and insides of the rail head where the flanges contact a little more effort just to cut down on wheel wear and noise.

Going slower with a cutoff wheel will also reduce the burrs.

Pete

As mentioned above, a modeling file and a few swipes and you are good to go. I swipe down from the top of rail, catch the sides and swipe the cut face. Takes 10 - 15 seconds.

I use a Dremel and reinforced cutoff wheel for cutting GG/Ross, a "floppy Dremel sandpaper wheel" (not sure of the real name) for general burr cleanup and, if needed, a quick in-and-out of the "hole" using a round miniature file. It goes pretty quickly. You may also be over-cleaning the stuff. It looks worse from 2 inches away than when on the layout - it really isn't a "fine cabinet".

Don't forget the safety goggles.

I use the 1 1/2" Dremel EZ lock cutoff wheels with a flex attachment so I can get perpendicular to the track. I rarely need to dress GG but Atlas O is another story. On the Atlas cuts I drag a file across the burrs and that seems to be enough on the nickel/silver rails.

I place a small piece of plywood across the rails as a guide, when the EZ Lock hub rubs the wood I know I'm ready to begin the cut. I tap the joints closed first.

Get the cutoff wheel from Ross for a Dremel, it will last you the rest of your life, and any simple file will do.  You sure as heck don't need a mini chopsaw and a belt sander.  Yikes1

Sounds like I am fussing too much. I file all around each end of each rail for burrs and slightly taper the top of the rail where it butts the next.   If I am not careful though the file can mar the wooden crossties (I do slide them back out of the way though).

John

@Craftech posted:

Sounds like I am fussing too much.

Not really. We all like find a better way to carry out these undesirable tasks. Unfortunately this is one of those tasks that there isn't a better way to do.

This is an issue with every king of track.  Coincidentally I have been cutting tubular with a Harbor Freight cutoff and looking for a way to do this.  Tried stationary grinder, wire wheel and files.  Going to try a small grinding wheel on a Dremel next.  I think I did it this way in the past and it worked.

Bill

I found that taking your time with the HF chop saw was the key to cleaner cuts.  If you are forcing it, you get a lot more clean-up.  Just take a little more time and less pressure, and gently let the blade cut slower.  The cut is much cleaner and requires less cleanup.  It took a while building my layout for me to tumble to the fact that I was creating work for myself hurrying the initial cut.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I found that taking your time with the HF chop saw was the key to cleaner cuts.  If you are forcing it, you get a lot more clean-up.  Just take a little more time and less pressure, and gently let the blade cut slower.  The cut is much cleaner and requires less cleanup.  It took a while building my layout for me to tumble to the fact that I was creating work for myself hurrying the initial cut.

John,

Are you still using the Warrior brand disc that came with it or a different brand?  It seems kind of thick.

John

Still using the disk that came with it, it doesn't seem to have a readily readable brand.  That might be because a lot of the label is worn off from cutting around 500 feet of track!   It's a green label FWIW.  It's not super thin, but that really doesn't make much difference, I doubt I used up much track with the thickness.

Yes, with all abrasive cutting, don't force the cutting disc. Let it do the work. You'll get much cleaner cuts.