EOB repair help needed. My Lionel Allegheny.

 Scott, I had an engine that had the same problem. If you are using the speed control flywheel stripes to trigger the chuffs. Try shutting off the speed control. The engine  should run fine with it disabled. An erratic or no chuff could be a problem with the sensor. My own engines problems were solved on a roller base. It seems at times the gap between the sensor and flywheel would change slightly while running and the engine would take off at full speed. A simple brace was made to steady the sensor mounted on the motor. The roller base was a great tool to have. A lot easier than chasing the engine around.

 As far as service. I believe Weaver is still offering EOB upgrades. But there new issues are being offered with cruise commander. You might want to contact Forum member Superwarp. He has experience with EOB upgrades.

You might want to email Gary at Weaver trains. They may still have some parts. I repaired an engine with similar symptoms and it turned out to be the tach sensor. Without a parts supply, knowing how to fix them doesn't help much.

Pete

E-Mail me thru my profile, I can help. LJ

I seem to have an issue finding e-mail addresses in he profile. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?
Scott Smith

I believe Weaver is still offering EOB upgrades. 

Weaver no longer does EOB upgrades as the kits are no longer available. Weaver is now installing ERR upgrades only. Gary told me some time ago that they are reserving their remaining stock of parts for repairs on Weaver engines with EOB and engines that were upgraded by Weaver. 

still call gary at weaver, he will help you over the phone or troubleshoot the problem and advise.

Scott,

If you want to send it to me, I still have sensors.  I work cheap  It may be as simple as a broken wire somewhere.  As stated above shut the cruise off and see if you get control back.  If you do it's a no brainer where the issue is.

Gary,

For some reason I do not have any way of seeing anyone's e-mail address. They are just not there to be found. I have turned off the cruise and I have regained control of the locomotive. I have lost all chuffing sounds other than that it runs the way it did when I first bought the locomotive. If you wouldn't mind please e-mail me or call me about this I can be reached at ssmith@doctortelco.com or 888-684-0503.

Thanks,

Scott Smith

When you click the link I posted above in a profile, what do you get?  That link works perfectly for me and I see your email address in yours, as well as the email addresses for the other thread posters in theirs.

The extended profile is now over on the right side at the bottom.

Uhh... not really.  It's at the top of the profile page, here's yours.  Note it's at the top of the profile page and not the bottom.

When it opens, the email address is farther down...

Sorry Scott,

I forgot about this post and checking it.  I responded to your email

Ok Scott, all fixed. 

Gary,

Your the best..I cannot thank you enough.

Scott Smith

Scott, what exactly turned out to be the problem with your engine?

Thank you Gary, Scott thought it might have become a shelf queen.

Looks Good!

The tach sensor was fried, smoke unit inop, fan dead.  Smoke unit burned up, Triac on R2LC board blown, trace on the EOB mother board for the smoke fried open also.  I think it was all due to the crappy TAS tether with it's exposed pins that could short to the frame of the engine/tender or it jiggled loose causing the tach to loose ground causing it to blow.

Scott, when you get it back keep electrical tape covering the tether.

I had a short on an EOB board the same way.  Cooked a couple of traces on the motherboard for the smoke, and I had to remove the driver transistors to repair them.  Those boards are not nearly as easy as the Lionel TMCC modular boards to work on!  The amazing part was the smoke triac survived and works to this day.

I didn't bother repairing the bad trace on the EOB board.  Just cleaned it up and bypassed the damage.

Well, that's my idea of repair.  However, the damage was under the drivers, and a couple of them had been toasted anyway, so they had to come off.  Once they were off, I could see what the issues were.  The good news is that $10 worth of parts and a little time and it's back on the rails.