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I have some C-liners, most with the stock drive except for one which has had both trucks remotored with some very scarce remotoring kit. I would like to think about building an H10-44 or an H16-44, perhaps using Lionel, MTH, or other shells. From what I can tell in photos, the H16-44 shell is a little coarse in the details, can't see much, detail-wise from photos of the H10-44. Any recommendations? I would even consider an Alco S-2 or an SW-1, although I know the trucks aren't right for these.

Last edited by CN6167
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Sorry I can't help you with your question, but I recently picked up one of these engines on eBay for almost nothing.

It's interesting, because not only does it have both trucks powered (was that the norm?), but it has an enclosed pilot, which I've never seen before on any examples of this model. A close inspection shows it to be "stock"; no indication of any surgery, the body/pilot is all one piece. It has directional-controlled back-up lights, which are kind of cool, runs really well and, as it turns out, is hand lettered in Pennsy freight green; only the 3 "Keystone" logos (front and both sides) are decals. Was equipped with MDC couplers, which I have replaced with KDs...

When I figure out how to down-load photos from my new phone, I will attempt to post some pictures, in case anyone's interested.

Mark in Oregon

I have 4 of these that I double powered.    The originals all came with only one powered truck.    Also all originals had the big open pilots for a european style coupler.   

If you have a double powered one, it was most likely customized.    Also closing the pilot and painting Pennsy green was custom.   

On mine I shaved off the cast hand rails and put on wire ones.   And one is a B-unit I kitbashed from 2 As.   I also closed i the pilots and put on Kadees.   

With those trucks,  I think the best choice is the H-16-44.   A number of roads had them with C-Liner trucks including Pennsy.   The early ones had a different truck, maybe an ARA standard truck like an Alco RS1.

CN6167 posted:

Strummer, it wouldn't have been added; the overly large original hole would have been filled. There is no other option, the casting was made like that, and no other manufacturers offered models of this locomotive.

 

Upon very close inspection in direct sun light, I do see a very slight seam on the inside of the pilot where the original hole was filled in. So you are all correct, it is an AHM shell.

Like everything else about this model, the workmanship was very well done. Not bad for $11.50...will post photos when I can.

Happy New Year to all.

Mark in Oregon

If you're looking for something FM to convert to, the Lionel H16-44s offer a good starting package, and you can find a non-powered one easily. 

Here's Dave's

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One thing to keep in mind, is not all H-motors had the FM trucks. For example, the UP's (and subsequently the AC&Y's), and others, had AAR trucks. 

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Good luck!

-Mario

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Last edited by CentralFan1976

I do remember it was disclosed in the listing.  It was a great job on the kit bash, too bad on the glue.  I had wanted to do one for a long time so it gave me an idea how to do it and I used the frame over again.  My Dad had the same thing happen on an AHM HO caboose he kit bashed.  Looked great for a year, then started to swell.

Mine went to Milt Sorenson in Idaho, in exchange for an O Scale live steamer.  As I recall, the fans took about twenty applications of "Squadron Green".  Bondo would have been better.  Finish with auto body primer, lacquer based glazing putty, and 600 wet sand paper.

The joint is probably best done with JB Weld and interior reinforcements.

About 40 years ago I cut and spliced a pair of Rivarossi FM C-liner A units to create a B unit.  Cutting and fitting went well and I only had to use Squadron Green on the roof where the fans were.  The hard part was making the PRR train-phone antenna masts.  I used flat stock brass soldered to flat head 00-90 machine screws, counter sunk into the plastic roof, and held in place with nut from the inside.  I had more patience and less discretionary funds for trains back then! 

After one of the small Rossi truck mounted motors failed I decided to re-powered the two A units with All Nation drive kits (see Stephen Bloy's post for photos of the AN drive) .  The drive worked fine for a few years but over time the sintered steel wheels pitted badly.  At the time my layout used steel rail and arching was common - especially with the C-Liner.  The pitted wheels picked up rail grunge further adding to the arching/pitting cycle.  My practice was to clean the wheels just before hosting a monthly train group operating session - that got old fast. 

In the early 1990's  Car Works imported their FM Baby Trainmaster in O scale and I was able to buy 3 pair of  brass dummy FM trucks.   The two A units were again repowered - this time using Overland end tower  gearboxes, NWSL flywheels, and Pittman can motors.  Twenty years later they still look run nice - now DCC'd with QSI sound decoders.  My C-Liners have served well in O scale longer than the prototypes did on the Pennsy!

Ed Rappe

PS - MTH also imported C-Liners - but from pictures they appear to have incorrect length  and wheel diameter AAR B trucks

 

 

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Last edited by Keystoned Ed

Thanks for posting the 2010 video's of my railroad - the Horseshoe Curve scene sure looks better with scenery.  One thing the video demonstrates is that HO decoders can be used in some O scale diesels.  The Centipedes, C-Liners, and Erie Builts running in the video all are driven by QSI "HO" 1.8A Revolution U decoders.  I replaced the Revolution-U decoders in the Weaver passenger sharks.  Those are the heaviest diesels I have (brass bodies, large factory lead weights) and each unit has a pair of China Drive motor trucks.  Under full load  they were drawing around 2 amps each.  The other units draw around 1.5 amps each on the grade.  The Weaver Sharks are now powered by QSI Titan Magnum decoders. 

Ed Rappe   

Last edited by Keystoned Ed
Tom D. posted:

I do remember it was disclosed in the listing.  It was a great job on the kit bash, too bad on the glue.  I had wanted to do one for a long time so it gave me an idea how to do it and I used the frame over again.  My Dad had the same thing happen on an AHM HO caboose he kit bashed.  Looked great for a year, then started to swell.

Yea, that was me. I bought it that way, so had no idea how it was done, or what type of adhesive had been used. I seem to recall you contacted me and told me about your father's bash; it sounds familiar...do you still have it?

Mark in Oregon

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