Figure painting "trick"

Good idea. The stand part...not the painting 1:48 scale figures part.......

@RSJB18 posted:

Good idea. The stand part...not the painting 1:48 scale figures part.......

Thanks...I agree!

Ed, that looks quite handy!  Thank you for passing it along.  IT looks like you re quite successful with it!

Thanks, Mark.

I was lucky. We were blessed that my wife was a stay at home mom. Guess who painted the figures.

Great tip.

Now I can paint my little werewolves!

Mannyrock

Ed, thats far more than slapping some paint on.  Hard to believe you got that much detail out of those figures- especially the faces. Do you have a preferred manufacturer? Thanks - Jeff

I keep seeing “finger painting trick”

Thanks for this great tip !!!

CB&Q Bill

When I had been married a short time my wife became pregnant and stay at home a lot.  I came home one eventing and found she had painted the figures on a Revell small town station.  I was very upset until I found an HO station master with a watch chain, gold buttons, a moustache, dragging a mail sack with U. S. Mail printed on the side.  My railroad got a new VP that day and she ended up painting all the  small details(like the windows on a cigarette machine, house numbers, and the like).

She glued them to a bit of sprue and held them in a tiny little vise she picked up at the PX.

I wish I had kept some of them when I changed over to O27 and sold all if my HO stuff.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Hard to believe you got that much detail out of those figures- especially the faces. Do you have a preferred manufacturer?

You have hit upon an important aspect of the process:  you have to start with sell-mastered and reproduced figs.  No matter the skill of the painter of the techniques used, poorly carved or molded figs don't turn out as well.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Ed, thats far more than slapping some paint on.  Hard to believe you got that much detail out of those figures- especially the faces. Do you have a preferred manufacturer? Thanks - Jeff

Jeff, most of my military figures come with models I build. Primarily Tamiya. The figures in the pic are from an outfit called Gaso.Line.  They show up on the Bay from time to time.  I have a few others from them as well.  There also other European outfits such as ICM Holding in Kiev.  Not sure they are still in business as I bought pre Putin insanity.  Frankly, I just search for 1/48 military figures on the web...  Hope this helps.

WARNING!!!!                               WARNING!!!!                               WARNING!!!!

I was advised by a Forum member that this technique did NOT work for him.  In attempting to remove the figure it was damaged.  I'm sorry if anyone else has had the same experience.  If you do use this technique and are experiencing trouble removing the figure, you may try "un-cure" to soften the CA glue:

I was doing my yearly maintenance touch-up on my figures when I seen this post.

I like to use several spring clips, dull cote and a hair dryer.  Quicker, less steps, always ready to use.

A dab of hot glue will hold the figure securely. The glue can easily be softened for release with a little heat from a heat gun on a low setting.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

A dab of hot glue will hold the figure securely. The glue can easily be softened for release with a little heat from a heat gun on a low setting.

Bob

That's how I do it too.  I use a wooden BBQ skewer that rotates easy in my fingers and is nice and long to prevent overspray on my hands.  Then I just stab it into a block of foam to sit and dry.

@Ron045,

So how do you paint on the details?  Do you use a fine brush or perhaps a paint pen?

Someone else suggested a large chunk of wood with some fine holes, they mounted the figures on toothpicks and just drilled holes in the wood to hold them in place.

@texgeekboy posted:

@Ron045,

So how do you paint on the details?  Do you use a fine brush or perhaps a paint pen?

I have a few fine brushes.  The key is to paint the entire figure dark grey first.  Then any missed areas look like shadows or dirty clothing.

The decals on the hat and vest were actually the hardest part for me.

That's a pretty good trick with the gray undercoat.  I actually noticed a little bit of gray under the yellow coat in the picture of the final product and thought 'Wow, how did he do that?'.

Thanks for sharing your 'secrets'.

RonO45, what are you using to hold the figure on the skewer?... You didn't mention that???

Thanks'..

@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:

RonO45, what are you using to hold the figure on the skewer?... You didn't mention that???

Thanks'..

Well I kinda sorta indirectly did.  I said I did mine like @RSJB18 does his.  He said he uses hot glue.  Easy on easy off.  😉

Ron

@Ron045 posted:

Well I kinda sorta indirectly did.  I said I did mine like @RSJB18 does his.  He said he uses hot glue.  Easy on easy off.  😉

Ron

@Quarter Gauger 48

Yep! My hot glue gun is never off the workbench. It's my go to adhesive for most projects.

Bob

@texgeekboy posted:

That's a pretty good trick with the gray undercoat.  Thanks for sharing your 'secrets'.

Wish I could take credit.  I believe I read it on a post from @SIRT some time ago.

But that's the idea here right!  We all share what we have learned.

Have Fun!

Ron

My primary hobby is military figure painting for games. I paint a lot of figures. If the figures have a base, I use the cheapest store brand of basic white glue (aka “Elmer’s” or PVA) on a small wood or plastic base. When complete, the figure pops off the white glue with a little finger pressure or at worst the blade of a screwdriver.

For figures without full bases, I recommend the head of a screw as OP suggested but use a product called “Blu tack” which is a temporary adhesive that is designed to release without residue. A small pea sized blob of blue tack is all you need. Available at craft stores or the usual online sources.

I have been doing a fair amount of figure painting and concur with SIRT's idea of first painting with a grey, or in my case flat black, before doing any detail painting with acrylics.  I've found having the smallest detail brushes and a magnifying glasses headset can give you pretty good results.  And, when I finish painting, I spray a protective coat with Rustoleum Matt Clear spray.
I haven't mounted a figure on a stick yet but may try that as well.

Hey guys - do you mind posting what "brand" of figures you have?  @EmpireBuilderDave  I have never seen those types of figures before. Finally got my hands on a couple of Preiser workers.

Various figures

I am finding the China sourced people are decent for adding to passenger cars as well as on-the-street cars and trucks mainly due to their smaller size and thinness. But they do not have the facial details to do much with.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Hey guys - do you mind posting what "brand" of figures you have?  @EmpireBuilderDave  I have never seen those types of figures before. Finally got my hands on a couple of Preiser workers

.

Those figures are actually 1:50 and 1:48 figures from China - Wehonest on the 'Bay.  I've been pleased with their quality for some of my city areas where I need alot of people and didn't want them all to be painted the same. I had avoided figure painting for awhile but have found it is not as difficult as I expected as long as I don't get too close...

Ed, thanks for starting this thread. So many great ideas. I have learned so much about painting figures. I have many that I have finished except for the eyes. Any thoughts on painting eyes?  I was told not to paint the "white" part of the eye as it would make a google eye effect.

Tom

@Tom Q Fan posted:

Any thoughts on painting eyes?  I was told not to paint the "white" part of the eye as it would make a google eye effect.

Tom

There are so many different kinds of figures... Maybe some need painted eyes.  But look at this real life shot.  Can you ID any eye color?  Can't even see white.  You just need shadow and contrast.

Some light weathering powder just brought this face and hands to life.

Ron045, great point!  The eye request comes from my granddaughter who seems to have an "eye" for details. She has requested that all my model railroad folks have eyes. Every visit to the layout now includes inspection of the little folks

I agree with @Ron045 and you generally don’t need or want to paint eyes on the size of figures we are discussing here.

But since it is very hard to say no to one’s granddaughter 😀 I will share how I paint teeny tiny eyes. When the face is finished and shaded, use a very small brush and paint a horizontal line with an off-white color. Do not use pure white. Then using the same brush, paint a vertical line with black or a near-black dark blue. Don’t try to paint a dot pupil as you’ll only get frustrated. At this point the “eye” will be bigger than you want and look kind of like a black and white cross shape.

Then take your base skin color and go back and paint slightly curved horizontal lines top and bottom of the eye to narrow it down to near-scale size. This should leave you with a very small eye and the “whites” will be extremely small triangles on either side of the pupil.

Eye Painting Trick

Get old (like me) and you won't notice. 

But I have had decent results with this:

John

Craftech, Thanks for the laugh, I  AM Old and I really don't notice, hahah.  Gosh what a great idea using fine point Sharpie. Will get one today and try it out.  

Tom

ByronB, thanks for your eye painting tip. I think I will try that on some of the figures that will be closest to the viewers including my granddaughter.

@ByronB posted:

I agree with @Ron045 and you generally don’t need or want to paint eyes on the size of figures we are discussing here.

But since it is very hard to say no to one’s granddaughter 😀 I will share how I paint teeny tiny eyes. When the face is finished and shaded, use a very small brush and paint a horizontal line with an off-white color. Do not use pure white. Then using the same brush, paint a vertical line with black or a near-black dark blue. Don’t try to paint a dot pupil as you’ll only get frustrated. At this point the “eye” will be bigger than you want and look kind of like a black and white cross shape.

Then take your base skin color and go back and paint slightly curved horizontal lines top and bottom of the eye to narrow it down to near-scale size. This should leave you with a very small eye and the “whites” will be extremely small triangles on either side of the pupil.

do you have any examples of your painted eyes that we can see'...👀

I think the key to a great figure/little people paint job really depends on the quality of the figure.  The past few years I've been buying "Model U" real scanned humans that are 3D printed.  And from "Printle", a shapeways affiliate company.  The are very realistic, however, some times the facial details are not 100%.  Regardless of how much time you spend trying to get them to look acceptable is fruitless.  Here is my latest batch from Model U.

I mount them on cork screws held by model wax.  I do undercoat with auto gray or tan camouflage.  Just a very light coat.  I tried Vallejo primer, but unlike their paints, [which I love] I don't like the results.  After a few hours I start painting.  Skin tones first, then clothes, hats, shoes etc.  It is generally easier to touch up the skin later, rather than the entire figure.

I use a very ultra fine tip marker for eyes and lips.  I rarely use a wash and never powders.  But I am going to give that a try.  A/I will damage the paint as well as other washes,,,  Again, like everything else in the hobby we all have our individual approach and techniques to our projects... So bottom line, good figures, good brushes and paint, a steady hand gives good results'..  Main thing is enjoying and having fun bringing your little folks to life'..😁

I'll mention here the technique taught me by a friend who paints military figures. Prime with flat black paint. Then paint with very little paint on the brush, nearly dry brushing. The black will pop out as facial details, shadows, cloth wrinkles. It works for me...

I have an old slant top desk in my workshop that I use for people painting, or other details. That is my refuge when I don't feel like scenic work on the layout, or structure building. In the cubby holes are flesh type acrylic colors, and logical shades for clothing. Also handy are my tiny brushes from the art supply store. I also have a dedicated flood light. I find it is cool to have everything ready when the mood to paint people strikes - I can just sit down and focus...

@Quarter Gauger 48 I am totally blown away by your figures. Holy Smokes.

@HiramO and all - thanks for the great tips. I'll have to use them to repaint my chinese figures.

@ScoutingDad posted:

@Quarter Gauger 48 I am totally blown away by your figures. Holy Smokes.

@HiramO and all - thanks for the great tips. I'll have to use them to repaint my chinese figures.

Thanks very much'...  If I can answer any questions or share any tips I've learned, just shoot me an email.  Address is in my profile... Happy to help'..

@Ron045,

Where did you buy those train worker figures from your post on 7/31?

I have done a number of 28mm and 1/72 military figures over the past few years.  I do use washes, but I use them as paints to shade with.  For eye sockets IMO they work better than paints.

@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:

I think the key to a great figure/little people paint job really depends on the quality of the figure.  The past few years I've been buying "Model U" real scanned humans that are 3D printed.  And from "Printle", a shapeways affiliate company.  The are very realistic, however, some times the facial details are not 100%.  Regardless of how much time you spend trying to get them to look acceptable is fruitless.  Here is my latest batch from Model U.

I mount them on cork screws held by model wax.  I do undercoat with auto gray or tan camouflage.  Just a very light coat.  I tried Vallejo primer, but unlike their paints, [which I love] I don't like the results.  After a few hours I start painting.  Skin tones first, then clothes, hats, shoes etc.  It is generally easier to touch up the skin later, rather than the entire figure.

I use a very ultra fine tip marker for eyes and lips.  I rarely use a wash and never powders.  But I am going to give that a try.  A/I will damage the paint as well as other washes,,,  Again, like everything else in the hobby we all have our individual approach and techniques to our projects... So bottom line, good figures, good brushes and paint, a steady hand gives good results'..  Main thing is enjoying and having fun bringing your little folks to life'..😁

Ted, great painting skill and choice of figures...I hope to have your patience and skill some day  Look forward to seeing the above figures on your layout...

@texgeekboy posted:

@Ron045,

Where did you buy those train worker figures from your post on 7/31?

https://www.miniprints.com/shop-people/

Thanks Paul'..... Patience... you can do it....'😁

texgeekboy

Take a look at  https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/  they offer some excellent modern day train crews. Excellent quality and pricing, and one week shipping or less...

Ted, I am with the others.  Your people look great!

Fantastic looking. I only wish I was that good at painting.

Thanks Mark'... Always nice hearing from you'.. All  the best'... to you'..

@poconotrain posted:

Fantastic looking. I only wish I was that good at painting.

Pocono, no need to be a great painter. Use the simple method of block-painting (i.e. paint the basic colors for the head, hands, clothing, accoutrements, etc.) followed by application of a wash or dip, then an overspray of clear matte. Nine times out of ten the results will be a decent-looking figure suitable for the layout or wargame table. Sculpted detail is the critical thing to look for in figures, but even old Plasticville people can work:

Give it a try sometime...it's not that tough and can actually be a lot of fun.

PD