Flexxbed and Foam Risers?

PJB,

 

I am using WS inclines, but did not use roadbed on top.  Reason is I found the WS inclines to be just wide enough to handle O scale track.  The roadbed was too wide for the inclines.  I seem to remember that WS inclines were listed as "HO" and to use two rows for "O" scale.  That scheme would use a lot of real estate, at least for my layout.  I have had no issues with the one row and no roadbed.

 

Bill

Not sure I understand. How is it possible to lay track right on top of the WS foam - on a curve - and ballast it, or without the track seemingly floating over all the hollow spaces?   WS inclines are like accordians and as you curve it, each foam section separates and there are open areas in between. Without a flat surface on top, all the ballast would just fall through.

Sorry - I meant how is it possible to ballast curves created out of WS foam inclines without using trackbed (given curving WS inclines creates gaps between the foam sections).  Thanks. Peter

My whole layout has the vinyl Flexxbed (originally called VinylBed) glued directly to the 3/4" thick plywood top. My Atlas O solid nickel silver track glued directly to the vinyl roadbed. I use TightBond Wood glue, and ONLY used a very few screws to to hold the vinyl roadbed in place, until the glued dried. I then took all the screws out, and reused them for the next roadbed laying operation. I did the same thing with the Atlas track, i.e. some screws used to hold the glued track in place, until the TightBond glue dried, then all the screws removed.

 

The vinyl roadbed is very easy to bend into curves, and STAYS PUT, using ONLY glue! 

I agree, the flexbed will stay put with just glue.

I simply covered the gaps with masking tape.  Gluing ballast after that was no problem for me.

 

Bill

I'm also thinking of using Flexxbed on my layout.  Is it necessary to use Homasote between the plywood and the Flexxbed for sound reduction purposes ?

 

Mike   

Absolutely NOT!

Oh, sorry if my question wasn't clear.  I know how well glue works on WS foam and Flexxbed. But the WS blocks are foam.  So my question was - will the torque of the Flexxbed ( on a curve made from WS inclines ) trying to straighten itself (right away or over time) start warping the foam blocks?  Meaning, the foam would stay put at the glued base, but the top of the foam would be constantly under the stress of the Flexxbed trying to straighten itself. Maybe putting pins through the track, through the Flexxbed and into the WS foam helps?

I d

Oops. Was gonna say - I don't think you need homesite and Flexxbed.  I've tested sound both ways and Flexxbed lessened noise. But not necessary. Reason I'm do

Oops. Was gonna say - I don't think you need homesite and Flexxbed.  I've tested sound both ways and Flexxbed lessened noise. But not necessary. Reason I'm thinking about doing this is I like the extra sound insulation.

Typ

Sorry. Typing on iPhone and keep hitting the wrong butt

Button!

And how is it possible to lay down sentences and complete questions.....without seemingly floating over all the hollow spaces?   

I used Atlas track on top of cork road bed on top of the WS inclines.  This worked out well.

OK. Back on a normal sized computer. Thanks to all for the helpful and constructive inputs - which of course excludes "breezinup" as his entire commentary was about my computer snafus, not the topic. Lol. FYI - in case this is helpful to anyone else, I spoke to WS this afternoon and they said there should be no problem with 072 curves (or larger presumably). BUT they also said that, in cooler weather (my layout is in the cellar with some temperature fluctuation), vinyl will become less pliant and there would be more tension as it tries to regain a straighter posture. So thinking about using the WS foam trackbed, at least on the WS foam that will curve.

I disagree! That vinyl product is so flexible that, once properly glued down, it is there for ever.

Hope thats true, but would you consider Flexxbed being glued on top of curved WS foam (with its sections separated by mini canyons between each section on curves) to be "properly glued down?"   Thanks.

Peter

Put enough of that TightBond Professional glue on, and you can glue a house together! 

 

My whole layout is put together with TightBond; the 1"X4" glued to 1"X4" for the legs (no screws), the 1"X2" glued to 1"X4" for the L Girder cross members (no screws), and the 3/4" thick plywood for the top. The layout is "free standing", i.e. NOT connected to the walls in anyway. If you bump into it someplace, you'll hurt yourself and the layout still doesn't move.

Wow.  THAT will get you arrested....  LOL!

Dip hydrocal sheets in water and place on the risers for a smooth, flat surface.