Loose connection with a high load on track.

The voltage applied was maybe only 10-12v. The Fastrak plug type connector is pretty positive - I can't imagine it would arc and melt the plastic. This had to have been a long process of heating. Why would the Z-400's circuit breaker have not prevented this? 

The only other scenario I can imagine is that I was previously running 7  70 foot standards and two express boxes behind my childhood 1954 vintage F-3s. They take 21v and draw a lot of amps. Ran it for maybe 20 or more minutes. Wonder if that train did it and then the shorting out by the mike was the final straw?

Gentlemen,

  As usual Rob is correct, 99% of the time's a bad loose connect.

PCRR/Dave

Hi Everyone:  I recently watched a little movie on a problem with Fastrack that I did not know existed until this film.  For some reason, some of the connector pins in various pieces of Fastrack are not shinny metal, they are dull pot metal and they cannot be bent or they snap and break apart.  The only way to fix the problem is to sacrifice a scrap piece of Fastrack that has the shinny metal pins in them.  You can easily take the pins out of those not used pieces of Fastrack by prying up the tabs and gently straightening the  tabs with a needle nose plier.  You do not have to bend all of the tabs, just about 4 or 5.  Gently pull up the track section and get the pins out of it.  You can gently bend the center and outside Fastrack Rail Pins that are shinny.  Unfortunately, LIONEL does not sell those track pins as a spare part for Fastrack.  Another thing I noticed about Fastrack, there was a change in the molding of Fastrack because the early pieces I bought have little pin holes on the under neath side of the plastic and the later ones have little squares.  I can only guess why the shinny metal pins were changed to pot metal as pot metal is cheaper but you cannot bend it....oh well, such is the life of Lionel Fastrack......railbear601  

Griff Murphey posted:

The only other scenario I can imagine is that I was previously running 7  70 foot standards and two express boxes behind my childhood 1954 vintage F-3s. They take 21v and draw a lot of amps. Ran it for maybe 20 or more minutes. Wonder if that train did it and then the shorting out by the mike was the final straw?

The vintage train with pulmor motors and a small gauge wire - what gauge is that wire? The almost 18 , maybe 20awg that is included with the track?

You had to apply a high voltage to compensate for the inability of the wire to carry the necessary amperage.(current)

it was not a short for the breaker to react and the amperage had not exceeded the capacity of the transformer - the Z-4000 did what it was supposed to do - supply plenty of power

Use a 16 or 14 awg feeder wire the next time.

It looks pretty thick to me. Maybe it's just the picture. I'm guessing he's using 14  or 16 AWG.

I would also say that those crimps could be suspect.  I prefer when using these to add some solder.  I agree with Carl though, the pulmor motors probably didn't help.

Four pulmor motors and seven lighted cars = 9amps?

Train Nut posted:

It looks pretty thick to me. Maybe it's just the picture. I'm guessing he's using 14  or 16 AWG.

Nope, that's the red and blank shrink of the factory leads.

Just to clarify, that's one powered vintage F-3 and one dummy.

The wire is the factory stuff with the slip on plugs that Lionel sells. My Fastrack is all about 8 years old. I think you have a point about the gauge of the wire being too small, I think I will solder a heavier gauge wire to the tabs for next year's layout. 

Do you think it's ok to use this section of track as a normal straight if not a terminal? I am thinking yes.

It'll be fine. Just remove the burnt wires.

Griff Murphey posted:

...The wire is the factory stuff with the slip on plugs that Lionel sells...

There's your problem right there... and to compound the issue, this was likely the only track power connection, right?

ADCX Rob posted:

Griff Murphey posted:

...The wire is the factory stuff with the slip on plugs that Lionel sells...

There's your problem right there... and to compound the issue, this was likely the only track power connection, right?

Exactly what I was thinking.   I use SOME of them on my fastrack.  Along with maybe 10 others of heavier wire on a 6x12 loop. 

Jim

Loose connections = high resistance = higher load = increased current draw = heat = melted wire insulation and surrounding plastic things. ALSO I suspect that Fast Track isn't suited for the Vintage O Gauge Locomotion.  I very rarely see my local train shop put the older equipment on Fast Track to test it out. They put on Atlas Track. 

Noah posted:

 ALSO I suspect that Fast Track isn't suited for the Vintage O Gauge Locomotion.  I very rarely see my local train shop put the older equipment on Fast Track to test it out. They put on Atlas Track. 

 

Fastrack is fine when properly wired for the load.

You are correct it is the only track connection although there are a couple of jumpers they are track to track in two problem areas and not connected to the transformer.

Never a problem with the 736 Berkshire but I guess the F3 did it. I put it on because it needed more annual exercise to blow out the cobwebs and the guest children did not like the smoke the Berk was making. I was pretty much running it just off full bore power.

Thanks to all of you Genelmuns! Next year I will go to soldered connections and bigger wire and will run a lighter train for the old AA F-3 lashup! It was hauling a 5 car mth Pullman set, My Santa Fe talking diner, a Weaver ATSF RPO and two Express boxes.

Griff Murphey posted:

You are correct it is the only track connection although there are a couple of jumpers they are track to track in two problem areas and not connected to the transformer.

Never a problem with the 736 Berkshire but I guess the F3 did it. I put it on because it needed more annual exercise to blow out the cobwebs and the guest children did not like the smoke the Berk was making. I was pretty much running it just off full bore power.

Thanks to all of you Genelmuns! Next year I will go to soldered connections and bigger wire and will run a lighter train for the old AA F-3 lashup! It was hauling a 5 car mth Pullman set, My Santa Fe talking diner, a Weaver ATSF RPO and two Express boxes.

How long was the wire from the Fastrack to the Z4K?  Just the standard foot or so that comes with it? 

Yes the transformer is in the corner and I operate it from a folding chair. Wires are fairly short.

Volphin posted:

Griff Murphey posted:

You are correct it is the only track connection although there are a couple of jumpers they are track to track in two problem areas and not connected to the transformer.

Never a problem with the 736 Berkshire but I guess the F3 did it. I put it on because it needed more annual exercise to blow out the cobwebs and the guest children did not like the smoke the Berk was making. I was pretty much running it just off full bore power.

Thanks to all of you Genelmuns! Next year I will go to soldered connections and bigger wire and will run a lighter train for the old AA F-3 lashup! It was hauling a 5 car mth Pullman set, My Santa Fe talking diner, a Weaver ATSF RPO and two Express boxes.

How long was the wire from the Fastrack to the Z4K?  Just the standard foot or so that comes with it? 

Volphin has a point.  I had a similar incident as Griff's a couple of years ago on my Fastrack Christmas layout.  I had spliced a length of heavier wire to the end of the Lionel provided wire so I could have the transformer off to the side.  I can't remember if I had my Z4000 yet, or if I was using my ZW with circuit breakers and diode protection.  Anyway, all I can figure is I was pulling too much current through that wire.  I did not have a burn on the connector, but I did melt the insulation off the factory provided wire.  I had one connection to the loop at the time.  Now I have heavier gauge wire and two connections.

Griff Murphey posted:

Yes the transformer is in the corner and I operate it from a folding chair. Wires are fairly short.

Well, as I was writing, I see you answered that question.  

Mark Boyce posted:

Volphin posted:

Griff Murphey posted:

You are correct it is the only track connection although there are a couple of jumpers they are track to track in two problem areas and not connected to the transformer.

How long was the wire from the Fastrack to the Z4K?  Just the standard foot or so that comes with it? 

Volphin has a point.  I had a similar incident as Griff's a couple of years ago on my Fastrack Christmas layout.  I had spliced a length of heavier wire to the end of the Lionel provided wire so I could have the transformer off to the side.  I can't remember if I had my Z4000 yet, or if I was using my ZW with circuit breakers and diode protection.  Anyway, all I can figure is I was pulling too much current through that wire.  I did not have a burn on the connector, but I did melt the insulation off the factory provided wire.  I had one connection to the loop at the time.  Now I have heavier gauge wire and two connections.

Yikes! That's how we used to launch Estes rockets, the sacrificial nichrome wire glows and ignites the propellant. Glad to hear you didn't suffer any other harm. Going to add new terminals with thicker wires to our test loop today.

Grampstrains posted:

MartyE posted:

Noah posted:

 ALSO I suspect that Fast Track isn't suited for the Vintage O Gauge Locomotion.  I very rarely see my local train shop put the older equipment on Fast Track to test it out. They put on Atlas Track. 

 

Fastrack is fine when properly wired for the load.

I run my postwar trains on Fastrack all the time.  No problems.

I'll concur here.     I have pre-war, post war, MPC, then modern era TMCC/Legacy and DCS all running on Fasttrack

BobbyD posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

Volphin posted:

Griff Murphey posted:

You are correct it is the only track connection although there are a couple of jumpers they are track to track in two problem areas and not connected to the transformer.

How long was the wire from the Fastrack to the Z4K?  Just the standard foot or so that comes with it? 

Volphin has a point.  I had a similar incident as Griff's a couple of years ago on my Fastrack Christmas layout.  I had spliced a length of heavier wire to the end of the Lionel provided wire so I could have the transformer off to the side.  I can't remember if I had my Z4000 yet, or if I was using my ZW with circuit breakers and diode protection.  Anyway, all I can figure is I was pulling too much current through that wire.  I did not have a burn on the connector, but I did melt the insulation off the factory provided wire.  I had one connection to the loop at the time.  Now I have heavier gauge wire and two connections.

Yikes! That's how we used to launch Estes rockets, the sacrificial nichrome wire glows and ignites the propellant. Glad to hear you didn't suffer any other harm. Going to add new terminals with thicker wires to our test loop today.

Ahhh the good old days when my friends an I would take a tiny Estes rocket and put an "E" motor in it.

Then there's the time the Saturn V didn't launch right, went horizontal, and chased us....  Good times

I agree that the terminal wire is small, but it appears that all the heat was at the connection. My experience is that the .110 connectors are never as tight as the first time they are used. If I use them again I always give them a pinch if they don't slide on hard. That terminal section is way over priced anyway. You can do the same thing with any full section of Fastrack and your own wire. It's right up there with the four packs of track that cost more than buying four individually, but I digress. When properly connected, there is no problem running new or old trains on Fastrack.

Griff Murphey posted:

You are correct it is the only track connection although there are a couple of jumpers they are track to track in two problem areas and not connected to the transformer.

Add more power feeders. I would suggest at least two feeders your 060 loop and two on your 042 loop. A good rule of thumb is one feeder for every six track joints.

Most of the FasTrack track sections have the connecting terminals on them. I would suggest 16 ga minimum. A roll of speaker wire will work fine for a temporary layout. The 0.110 crimp on connectors are cheap and easy to install.

FWIW the Lionel wire is 18 ga. Had it indeed been a short circuit, the Z4K circuit breaker would have (very quickly) tripped.

John H posted:

I agree that the terminal wire is small, but it appears that all the heat was at the connection. My experience is that the .110 connectors are never as tight as the first time they are used. If I use them again I always give them a pinch if they don't slide on hard. That terminal section is way over priced anyway. You can do the same thing with any full section of Fastrack and your own wire. It's right up there with the four packs of track that cost more than buying four individually, but I digress. When properly connected, there is no problem running new or old trains on Fastrack.

.110 is the wrong connector.  For a more secure connection, solder in female .080 connectors.  They spread just enough on installation and stay tight.  The gap in the connector should be on the same side as the dimple on the spade.  

Griff, I'm in the middle of soldering a bunch of new feeders for our club electrical buss.  If you PM or email me your address, I'll make you up a new terminal feed out of heavier gauge wire, as long as you like and mail it to you.  Consider it a gift for your service.    Navy families stick together.  

If you solder, why use a connector? Having the dimple on the flat side improves contact by tightening it up.

Soldering to FasTrack will definitely result in melted plastic.

 I've soldered Fastrack many times and never had a problem with melting unless I put the iron on a little too high or a little too long. That's soldering on the bottom. I don't solder on the top to the sides of the Rails.

Here's I have done.   I assemble feeders for Fastrack, about a foot long.  I then add a quick disconnect to it.

The feeders are soldered to the tabs under the track.    Then I just have to attach the drop to the feeders via the disconnects I use.   Perfect for carpet central, and lets me redo the carpet layout as many times as I desire, without loosening the connection under the track.

For my permanent layout, the feeders are all run terminal strips under neath, and again soldered to the tabs underneath.

I have yet to melt Fastrack when soldering

Haven't had an issue in 9 years of doing it this way.

Volphin posted:

Griff, I'm in the middle of soldering a bunch of new feeders for our club electrical buss.  If you PM or email me your address, I'll make you up a new terminal feed out of heavier gauge wire, as long as you like and mail it to you.  Consider it a gift for your service.    Navy families stick together.  

Very nice. I post under my own name, Griffin T. Murphey, DDS and you can easily google my office address/phone in Fort Worth. Give me a call during working hours and we can have a good Navy gabfest! I'll take a 24" one and a 12 foot one!

I run several pullmor engines on my layout. They are power hogs so all my power feeder wires are 14 gauge. Overkill? Probably, but they handle the load of a postwar horizontal motor F3, 3 dummy F3s, 6 2500 series aluminium passenger cars, and the power from a postwar ZW without issue.

I really appreciate all of the replies and suggestions. Lots of good ideas. My carpet empire is in a good size living room and the oval footprint in in an areas 15x20 feet. I would guess the main line is at least 55-60 feet in length. Next year I will be incorporating better connections and more and better leads of thicker wire (less resistance). I am a pretty good hand at soldering and no problem soldering to the underside tabs and yes, I did know every Fastrack section has the tabs. My Christmas layout at my office is much smaller and my terminal to my old childhood KW is actually soldered to an O-36 curve section.

Again, thanks to all, my urologist friend Mike just repaired my 675 and brought it by my office, when I showed him that burned up terminal strip, he said: "THAT needs an autopsy!"

John H posted:

If you solder, why use a connector? Having the dimple on the flat side improves contact by tightening it up.

The short answer is the inevitable track maintenance.  .110 connectors are too loosey goosey for my taste.  If you try the brass .080 you will see.    I crimp the feeder into the connector then flow solder into the connection.  (These connectors do not have the plastic base).  You just have to keep the solder away from the female spade end and just where the wire crimps.  Goes on right, holds tight.  NEVER had one loosen up since I changed.  

You can shinny up a tree to get a shiny apple, but you cannot shiny up a tree to get a shinny apple.

I had this happen in fact it looks exactly like mine did. It happened on my Polar Express Set. I was using it as it comes from the box, locomotive, tender three cars. The track and CD 80 transformer.

It was in its third year of around the Christmas tree duty.

I figured out the problem. Nothing other than just a little play on the connector where it attaches to the track.

I now make sure the connections are tight. It has been more than 5 years and even my PW F3's and 6 lighted passenger cars have never as much made this connection war. In addition I now run a Z 1000 transformer on this combination.

ADCX Rob posted:

Soldering to FasTrack will definitely result in melted plastic.

False.  

A 25w weller iron will solder to the fastrack tabs in seconds and not touch the roadbed.

Need to make a change? Touch the iron to the solder for a few seconds will release the wire.

14 GA soldered directly to the tabs is supeior to any slip on connector when it comes to conductivity, period.

I used 14 Ga buss with14GA feeder wires about every 10'. No issues, no heat, no melting and no voltage drops. A constant 17 volts at any point on my 12'x16' layout.

Don't skimp, wiring is the most important thing to the trackwork when it comes to trouble free running.

Volphin posted:

John H posted:

If you solder, why use a connector? Having the dimple on the flat side improves contact by tightening it up.

The short answer is the inevitable track maintenance.  .110 connectors are too loosey goosey for my taste.  If you try the brass .080 you will see.    I crimp the feeder into the connector then flow solder into the connection.  (These connectors do not have the plastic base).  You just have to keep the solder away from the female spade end and just where the wire crimps.  Goes on right, holds tight.  NEVER had one loosen up since I changed.  

28-6082 - .080 Female Disconnect. MCM Electronics dot com

 

 

  Hi Volphin, on the above 28-6082, what is the maximum gauge wire that you can crimp into the connector?

Thanks!

RickM46 posted:

Volphin posted:

John H posted:

If you solder, why use a connector? Having the dimple on the flat side improves contact by tightening it up.

The short answer is the inevitable track maintenance.  .110 connectors are too loosey goosey for my taste.  If you try the brass .080 you will see.    I crimp the feeder into the connector then flow solder into the connection.  (These connectors do not have the plastic base).  You just have to keep the solder away from the female spade end and just where the wire crimps.  Goes on right, holds tight.  NEVER had one loosen up since I changed.  

28-6082 - .080 Female Disconnect. MCM Electronics dot com

 

 

  Hi Volphin, on the above 28-6082, what is the maximum gauge wire that you can crimp into the connector?

Thanks!

I have only used 14, 16 and 18 Ga on this connector for feeders and buss applications.  Seems to me it could go a little larger, but I haven't tried other gauges.  It's not like you need battery cable for model trains anyway...    My nominal buss size is 16 Ga w/ 18 Ga feeders on my 250 ft Fastrack layout.  I do not use shrink tube on them... no need.  

I use them for accessory power buss feeders as well, and those little wires are tiny!  Right now they are soldered into my GGD coaling tower, Broadway Ltd. water tower, Lionel hobo water tower, Lionel hobo hotel, and a PE hero boy's house.  

Hope this helps.  

Thanks a bunch Volphin!!  I am about to order a bunch of these connectors from MCM; but, just to verify, will the female end of the connector fit the Fastrack spade terminal on the underside of the Fastrack??

Don't forget your fellow Navy man here, Volphin!

RickM46 posted:

Thanks a bunch Volphin!!  I am about to order a bunch of these connectors from MCM; but, just to verify, will the female end of the connector fit the Fastrack spade terminal on the underside of the Fastrack??

Yes.  That is all I use on my Fastrack. There are two crimp points.  One is for the bare wire (closest to the female, and the one on the end holds the wire with insulated jacket.  Crimp the bare wire onto the connector, then the rest of it into the other.  I just use needle nose pliers for the crimps.  Next, hold the connector with the needle nose pliers on the top of your soldering iron tip right below the bare wire connection at a 45 degree angle.  It won't take long to heat up.  Touch the solder to it, being careful not to let it flow into the female connector where the spade goes.  (Hence the 45 degree angle).  Slip it over your fastrack spades and enjoy!  

I use the automotive zip wire from MCM as well. It is red and black, and a darn good price.  Search for product 24-1880 (16 AWG, 250 ft.) and 24-1870 (18 AWG, 100ft).  It also comes in 14 AWG.

Griff Murphey posted:

Don't forget your fellow Navy man here, Volphin!

No problems doc.  I'll make it this weekend.  

Thanks for the info Volphin!!  Ordered a bunch from MCM.

Can you guys post a link to MCM or the actual .com address?   I tried to go there and it comes up either asking me if I want a hotel or telling me its going to log me out lol

Semper Fi, Semper Float, Semper Fill - as we USN/USMC dentists say!

Volphin,

   I just order some of the 28-6082 Female Brass slip on connectors, thanks for pointing them out in the thread.  Put the company in my favorite's section also.  100 for less than $7.00 is great.  I still have lots to build in the new train room, and this should cover all my FT drop needs

Thanks,

PCRR/Dave

carsntrains posted:

Can you guys post a link to MCM or the actual .com address?   I tried to go there and it comes up either asking me if I want a hotel or telling me its going to log me out lol

They are at www.newark.com.

Here is where that exact .080 female spade connector is:

http://www.newark.com/mcm/28-6...lement14_US%2Fsearch

 I just ordered 3 packs of 100 each from their website; had a bit of an effort on their website to enter a different billing and shipping address; they are located in Illinois and do respond quickly to their customer service phone number; very helpful agents. They are located in Chicago.

carsntrains posted:

Can you guys post a link to MCM or the actual .com address?   I tried to go there and it comes up either asking me if I want a hotel or telling me its going to log me out lol

http://www.newark.com/mcm/28-6...lement14_US%2Fsearch

http://www.newark.com/mcm-part...cm-redirect-catchall

This is from his post link.

Sorry guys!  I didn't notice they have merged with another company.  As you can imagine, a couple hundred connectors can last quite a while!  LOL

The product numbers do come up on the search function though.    

Griff Murphey posted:

Semper Fi, Semper Float, Semper Fill - as we USN/USMC dentists say!

All I ever got was "Thanks for the ride."  Sloggers.  lol

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Volphin,

   I just order some of the 28-6082 Female Brass slip on connectors, thanks for pointing them out in the thread.  Put the company in my favorite's section also.  100 for less than $7.00 is great.  I still have lots to build in the new train room, and this should cover all my FT drop needs

Thanks,

PCRR/Dave

 

You're welcome Dave.  Post up some images when you can.  I love seeing all the cool layout work!

Griff - I saw your pic and thought it was my track!! I had the same thing happen a few years ago!!

I click on those links and it says "for your security you will be logged out"     and "you will be logged out in 30 seconds"    

carsntrains posted:

I click on those links and it says "for your security you will be logged out"     and "you will be logged out in 30 seconds"    

Did you try this link:

www.newark.com

I am using Windows 8.1 and Firefox and have no issues; what are you using?

Rick’s link just worked on this iPad. 

I got it to work on another server.  thank!

Jim

I started buying from MCM Electronics years ago because that is where we bought small electronic parts and supplies from at work.  We used Newark for larger items.  Now I am a retiree-engineering contractor at work, so I don't order there, but do for home.  I don't know how long ago it was that Newark took over MCM, but I have received the same quick service as before for home and layout items.

   If you have trouble finding them local, but can't wait for shipping, try a car radio shop. They should carry the smaller connectors for speakers.

Wire to handle more than your transformers max output, and fuse at slightly less. Breakers are more to protect the transformer, they are not really meant to protect the track though they do in a way.

Wire gauge needed is also based on wire length. Longer must be thicker at the same volt/amps. 

I go with 12g and never worry much if something it feeds goes "poof".

VOLPHIN,

   Roger that, as soon a my new battery charger for my camera comes I will take some more pictures of the train room.  Just set up the 305 Hell Gate Bridge in the middle of the Donovans Reef Bar layout, seriously cool stuff.  Lee Mavin & John Wayne would love it.

PCRR/Dave

Building Continues on the Donovans Reef Bar Top Layout!

Fried - Why?!?

I prefer mine baked, with a side of Scrapple. 

Griff Murphey posted:

Don't forget your fellow Navy man here, Volphin!

Hey Doc, do you want some U connectors on the other end of these?  

The Z400 has screw on caps and posts which will work great with "U's" or a straight wire; the posts have a nice hole. I have in the past twisted the stripped ends up real tight and flowed on solder to make the wires easier to insert.

Ok, I'll pop some on for you.  

Big thanks!

You're not alone. I used the factory-supplied wires for my first Fastrack Christmas layout powered by a PW ZW. Simple derailment fried the connector, and my snow-white felt turned charcoal black around it.  No problems since switching to heavier gauge wire. 

I ordered these from Newark

28-6082 - 

NON-INSULATED SOLDERLESS CONNECTORS, .08 FEMALE DISCONNECT, FEATURES: FOR CLEAN CUSTOM CONNECTIONS, QUANTITY: 100 PER PACKAGE at $6.49 each

I ordered Quantity 2. I think that means two packages...if it meant 2 terminals, then the cost would be around $1300 for 200.

They only sent two terminals for my $12.98 plus shipping plus tax. I emailed customer service, no answer yet. Anyone else order this and actually get 100 terminal packages?

Are you kidding me?  LOL. Someone messed up big time!  Call em up.

Unit of measure is a pervasive problem for all parts centers. I ran into that with a west coast distributor the other day, same type of thing, got 1 piece, expected 10 because the ebay description began with 10X. They made it right because that 100% favorable rating on ebay is a highly sought after prize, and few are willing to risk a bad write-up. I don't think you'll have any trouble from Newark, especially if you call instead of writing - seems to get better results. If not, send your story to the Guiness Book of World Records for the most expensive connectors ever purchased! 

I ordered a pack of Bohaim ??  connectors that fit the track perfectly.  6.99 per 100 on Amazon. 

Jim 

CJack,

  I just received my 28-6082 order, that Volphin advised me to purchase, got all 100 Pcs for $6.49 double bagged nicely.  Got to admit they are very nice Brass slip on connectors.

You multi millionaire guys must pay special rates for these Brass connectors!

PCRR/Dave

I just received my 28-6082 order from Newark.com, 3 plastic bag packs of 100 each, brass, and shipped in a bubble wrap envelope.  Going to look around for a plastic case to store them in.  Will do some soldering tomorrow per Volphin's instructions.  Happy Camper.

   Though not for near ten years, I used Newark Electronics for a long time before that, I predict they make it right. That has happened to me plenty of times when ordering connecters in bulk packages.

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

CJack,

  I just received my 28-6082 order, that Volphin advised me to purchase, got all 100 Pcs for $6.49 double bagged nicely.  Got to admit they are very nice Brass slip on connectors.

You multi millionaire guys must pay special rates for these Brass connectors!

PCRR/Dave

Better check your plastic bags, Chuck - they MAY be missing two connectors! 

GeoPeg posted:

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

CJack,

  I just received my 28-6082 order, that Volphin advised me to purchase, got all 100 Pcs for $6.49 double bagged nicely.  Got to admit they are very nice Brass slip on connectors.

You multi millionaire guys must pay special rates for these Brass connectors!

PCRR/Dave

Better check your plastic bags, Chuck - they MAY be missing two connectors! 

Right...where did they get the two terminals?

Griff Murphey posted:

Big thanks!

Griff, you have a friendly on an intercept bearing E-NE.  ETA Friday-Monday with current course and speed.  

Just fried a portion of my carpet with this ****ed terminal piece. Good thing I was around. I’m guessing it could only happen with juice to the track and not just leaving the transformer plugged in but not on.

I think it’s a matter of too light gauge of a connector wire. My first experience with this event was in fact with soldered wire connectors.

I treasure the hookups and a jumper that Volphin made for me.

Spade connectors are a friction connection. The first pic in this thread was a clear case of  overheating caused by high resistance between the male and female spade parts. The high resistance was caused by the female spade being spread open from use or misuse. I couldn't tell you the number of those tiny spades I have had to squeeze so they [again] have a tight friction fit with mating Fastrack male spades. I always check them for a nice tight fit.

The Borg are right.  Resistance is futile.  When you want yo run trains.

@Griff Murphey posted:

I think it’s a matter of too light gauge of a connector wire. My first experience with this event was in fact with soldered wire connectors.

I treasure the hookups and a jumper that Volphin made for me.

Glad to hear they are still working well Griff!  

It's not the voltage it is the current developed that gets the metal surface so hot the the metal melts and can even catch fire especially the near by plastic track road bed!! I have seen a house breaker not trip for an eclectic hot water heater and catch fire to the wood that the electric circuit panel because it got so hot!!!! or have circuit breaker melt to the point of self destruction!

nothing to mess around with have even seen fast acting fuses not open do to loose terminals or wires terminal screws not TIGHT!!!

Alan