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Gee, I just take some 1/16" aluminum sheet and cut a 1" strip.  I then put it in the vise and bend it to suit.  No waiting for months, and I certainly don't need a sheet metal brake to make those!  I've made dozens of heatsinks as well as mounting brackets for smoke units, and custom coupler mounts that way.

IMO, buying a sheet metal brake for making stuff the size of a heatsink is like killing flies with a sledgehammer.

I am looking for one as well.  Actually for making tinplate train parts.  I looked at the one at harbor freight and don't like it.  There doesn't seem to be any built in method for clamping the working piece.  My wife knows I want one and tells me there are some on amazon she is looking at for Christmas for me.  I will post back to here if I see something I like.

 

John Z.

jhz563 posted:

I am looking for one as well.  Actually for making tinplate train parts.  I looked at the one at harbor freight and don't like it.  There doesn't seem to be any built in method for clamping the working piece.  My wife knows I want one and tells me there are some on amazon she is looking at for Christmas for me.  I will post back to here if I see something I like.

 

John Z.

John, you’re quite right, the small brakes there is no method to clamp the work piece to do a fold. When I’m making let’s say a tender frame, and I want reinforcement bends along the sides to keep the tender frame from flexing, I keep the tiny pairs of duck bill vise grips ( they have no teeth) clamped on till I begin the fold.....once the fold is committed, the piece ain’t goin nowhere, I pop off the vise grips, and complete the motion...I get exactly what your mentioning and it was a learning curve to adapt to the slide that was happening........Pat

For a "real" sheet metal brake keep an eye out for your local auctions. I have one like the one in Pat's pic but rarely use it. Mostly I use my smooth jaw machine vise.

A useful alternative is a drill press vise with smooth parallel jaws or you can just use machinist parallels in a bench vise. Harbor Freight has some budget versions that would work fine for what you are doing.

Pete

Last edited by Norton

Here you go Alan.  This is the SW-1500, had to mount the board upside down to make it fit and give connector clearance.  The heatsink was simply bolted to existing threaded holes, one 90 degree bend and a few holes.  On the inside of the bridge there's a large flat washer and a nut holding the heatsink on.

It doesn't need to get any more complicated than this to do the job.  Not something you need to overthink.

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