Just To Mess With people !

@Oscale_Trains_Lover_ posted:

Please do not attack me for the bad colors and horrendous font but this is a Great Northern GG1

Bryce

Sorry, Bryce… I’m with Arthur on this one. While I have always admired various GN electrics, your version would not be one!!! Whether Tuscan or Brunswick, one stripe or five, the PRR GG1’s were prime examples of understated elegance - the GN colors are a bit too garish

@Arthur P. Bloom posted:

"Well, as much as it pains me to say, since the LIRR was once part of the Pennsy, I guess this variation would just be classified as morally objectionable as opposed to the examples of outright heresy above "

LOL. How about a compromise? A Tichy paint job, but an outside third-rail version?

I’d have no problem with pantographs on a Tichy engine…

@Oscale_Trains_Lover_ posted:

Please do not attack me for the bad colors and horrendous font but this is a Great Northern GG1



Bryce

I was actually working on a Great Northern Sky Blue version a few hours ago but couldn't find a logo that would play well with my graphics pak.

Jerry

@baltimoretrainworks posted:

I was actually working on a Great Northern Sky Blue version a few hours ago but couldn't find a logo that would play well with my graphics pak.

Jerry

Jerry,

I did find a GN Empire builder text font, but the guy wanted $14.00 so I skipped it.

@Arthur P. Bloom posted:

Go to your room, young man.

@Apples55 posted:

Sorry, Bryce… I’m with Arthur on this one.

Gents,

If you like the GN scheme, then you will love the following ones I have planned

- KCS' Southern Belle

- SP's Bloody Nose

- Lehigh Valley's Snowbird

Bryce

Penn Line already beat all of us to a GN GG1 in 1956.  It was offered with a set of matching heavyweight 60' cars.  My dad has two of the sets in the original box and a third factory GN painted GG1.

Penn Line GG1 

*The Penn Central one in this photo I found online is a repaint.  The others are original issue.  Penn Line also did GG1s in Northern Pacific and New Haven among other fantasy schemes.

@GG1 4877 posted:

Penn Line already beat all of us to a GN GG1 in 1956.  It was offered with a set of matching heavyweight 60' cars.  My dad has two of the sets in the original box and a third factory GN painted GG1.

Penn Line GG1

*The Penn Central one in this photo I found online is a repaint.  The others are original issue.  Penn Line also did GG1s in Northern Pacific and New Haven among other fantasy schemes.

Ya beat me to it Jonathan.  But just in case there's non-believers, here's a catalog image from 1961.

Rusty

@naresar posted:

That sure is a visible paint scheme.

Actually reminds me a little of WW1 Dazzle camouflage schemes.

I would much prefer the B&M "Bluebird" scheme myself...

Regarding the OP creation, I messed with folks some time ago.   It's a William's shell on an MTH chassis with ERR electronics.  Appropriately numbered 13.

Bruce

@Oscale_Trains_Lover_ posted:

Gents,

If you like the GN scheme, then you will love the following ones I have planned

- KCS' Southern Belle

- SP's Bloody Nose

- Lehigh Valley's Snowbird

Bryce

That is just plain wrong on so many levels

Okay, I have zero photo shop skills, but other suggestions would be, a K4 in daylights colors or a BigBoy with a Pennsy 5 stripe and keystone herald on the tender.

@baltimoretrainworks posted:

Personally I think it looks pretty good but I know out there there are Pennsy and Santa Fe fans whos heads are about to explode, I might even try my hand at making one!

Jerry

@GG1 4877 posted:

For those who need a safe space from these schemes

And now back to the topic.  Photoshopped this one last decade.

You’re obviously not one of those GGI haters.  It’s a love it or leave it thing.  I don’t understand those that dislike this beautiful flowing design. I wonder if it’s the same people who don’t like the BL-2 design.
Alan

I most likely wouldn’t buy any of these designs, but I really appreciate the members who took the time to generate these designs.
I wonder what a shark design at each end would look like, or does the shape of the body’s ends negate that possibility.
Alan

Important question, is this thread dedicated solely to the GG1 repaints or can we post other "cursed" trains? Because I've found a few "good" ones...

@Patrick B posted:

Important question, is this thread dedicated solely to the GG1 repaints or can we post other "cursed" trains?

The GG1 in NYC or Santa Fe seems to be a major trigger but if you have something really good post away!

Jerry

@baltimoretrainworks posted:

Now here's a really useful engine !

Jerry

Would love to see what Thomas's face looks like on this.

Second one on the right.

@baltimoretrainworks posted:

I was actually working on a Great Northern Sky Blue version a few hours ago but couldn't find a logo that would play well with my graphics pak.

Jerry

The Big Sky Blue scheme would be fantastic!

For all those Lehigh Valley Fans...

@coach joe posted:

Would love to see what Thomas's face looks like on this.

Not Thomas but, maybe, "Sparky"?

Have to revive this thread with a CSX GG1

Egads guys...Brunswick Green or Tuscan get my vote every time.  Some nice photos in this thread.  Thank you.

"fun with toy trains"?

@Apples55 posted:

...snip...  the GN colors are a bit too garish

Not as bad as an SP Daylight scheme would be!

I claim to have messed with the best first, by carrying out the original posters idea 4 years ago.  Here's what I got!

A William's shell on an MTH chassis controlled by ERR. 

Bruce

@brwebster posted:

I claim to have messed with the best first, by carrying out the original posters idea 4 years ago.  Here's what I got!

A William's shell on an MTH chassis controlled by ERR.

Bruce

@brwebster posted:

I claim to have messed with the best first, by carrying out the original posters idea 4 years ago.  Here's what I got!

A William's shell on an MTH chassis controlled by ERR.

Bruce

Bruce;

While I have always loved the warbonnet paint scheme, and it looks like you did an excellent painting job, it is just wrong in soooooo many ways   Now maybe, if you had done one end in warbonnet, and the other in the blue and yellow…

@Apples55 posted:

Bruce;

While I have always loved the warbonnet paint scheme, and it looks like you did an excellent painting job, it is just wrong in soooooo many ways   Now maybe, if you had done one end in warbonnet, and the other in the blue and yellow…

Paul

It was considered to double end the warbonnet scheme but too busy for my liking.  I admit a blue and yellow warbonnet never came to mind.

As the topic title suggests the main intention of the creation was to mess with the heads of purists.   Visually equal to using the term " jumbo shrimp " or " 3 rail scale ". 😉

Bruce

What? There's no Polar Express! GG1's would look good in Virginian paint.

Scott Smith

@brwebster posted:

I claim to have messed with the best first, by carrying out the original posters idea 4 years ago.  Here's what I got!

A William's shell on an MTH chassis controlled by ERR.

Bruce

Bruce, can you share the products/techniques you used to achieve this work?..specifically paint color names/brands and applications?….your work looks amazing!….

Pat

Hi Pat,

The ease afforded by the GG1 is in its lack of minute detail to work around when prepping for paint.  I removed all PRR decoration by sparingly rubbing it with lacquer thinners on Q-tips.  After a light scuff and a coat of Dupli-Color primer/sealer, any imperfections were sanded smooth with 1000 grit.

The shell was completely sprayed with Dupli-Color Perfect Match, Bright Silver Metallic.  I try to lay on 2 wet coats without allowing the metallic to go blotchy or the paint to run.  Ideally it's sprayed on a low humidity, room temperature day.  Give the paint a good day to dry enough to continue with the next step, even though the paint will be taco free in 20 minutes.

I used SF, F3 decals, trimmed from the sheet, as templates to mark an approximate delineation in colors.  The templates are then used to mark the masking tape when cutting it to conform to the contours of the warbonnet.  I use high quality body shop 3M type 233+ tape.  Again, I approximate the color separation and masking to delineate at center of the decal stripes.  Wiggle room here is OK but lay the templates over the final masking to check positioning.

I suggest the second color be applied immediately after masking and remove the tape after drying for about 10 minutes.  I chose Dupli-Color Torch Red, a GM color, and lay on a fine coat first and let dry five minutes.  Then apply 2 wet coats to cover.  Once the masking is removed let the job dry for an entire day, prefereably even longer.  The paint solvents need to sufficiently gas off before continuing.

Carefully smooth any coarse ridges produced at the color separation with 1000 grit.  Decal as usual with micro set and micro sol and next day the job will be ready to clear coat seal to your preference.  I sprayed on a coat of gloss MinWax fast drying Varathane to finalize the job.

I pre-fitted the shell by drilling new mounting holes in the MTH chassis and shimmed to suit.  After drilling out the solid holes in the truck sides the trucks and pilots received a generic semi-gloss silver ala SF practice.  Grab irons got the silver treatment too only because I lacked the stainless wire at the time.  The MTH pans fit perfectly into the existing William's holes.  Replacement of the original PS1 with ERR control, sound and light was straight forward.

I'm certain there are steps I've forgotten.  Coincidentally, I'm refinishing an old AB set of CLW, PA's in Santa Fe head dress currently...A project left in limbo until painting weather finally returned to Southern Ontario.

Bruce

@brwebster posted:

I claim to have messed with the best first, by carrying out the original posters idea 4 years ago.  Here's what I got!

A William's shell on an MTH chassis controlled by ERR.

Bruce

The GG1 is double-ended, the warbonnet should be on both ends.

@brwebster posted:

Hi Pat,

The ease afforded by the GG1 is in its lack of minute detail to work around when prepping for paint.  I removed all PRR decoration by sparingly rubbing it with lacquer thinners on Q-tips.  After a light scuff and a coat of Dupli-Color primer/sealer, any imperfections were sanded smooth with 1000 grit.

The shell was completely sprayed with Dupli-Color Perfect Match, Bright Silver Metallic.  I try to lay on 2 wet coats without allowing the metallic to go blotchy or the paint to run.  Ideally it's sprayed on a low humidity, room temperature day.  Give the paint a good day to dry enough to continue with the next step, even though the paint will be taco free in 20 minutes.

I used SF, F3 decals, trimmed from the sheet, as templates to mark an approximate delineation in colors.  The templates are then used to mark the masking tape when cutting it to conform to the contours of the warbonnet.  I use high quality body shop 3M type 233+ tape.  Again, I approximate the color separation and masking to delineate at center of the decal stripes.  Wiggle room here is OK but lay the templates over the final masking to check positioning.

I suggest the second color be applied immediately after masking and remove the tape after drying for about 10 minutes.  I chose Dupli-Color Torch Red, a GM color, and lay on a fine coat first and let dry five minutes.  Then apply 2 wet coats to cover.  Once the masking is removed let the job dry for an entire day, prefereably even longer.  The paint solvents need to sufficiently gas off before continuing.

Carefully smooth any coarse ridges produced at the color separation with 1000 grit.  Decal as usual with micro set and micro sol and next day the job will be ready to clear coat seal to your preference.  I sprayed on a coat of gloss MinWax fast drying Varathane to finalize the job.

I pre-fitted the shell by drilling new mounting holes in the MTH chassis and shimmed to suit.  After drilling out the solid holes in the truck sides the trucks and pilots received a generic semi-gloss silver ala SF practice.  Grab irons got the silver treatment too only because I lacked the stainless wire at the time.  The MTH pans fit perfectly into the existing William's holes.  Replacement of the original PS1 with ERR control, sound and light was straight forward.

I'm certain there are steps I've forgotten.  Coincidentally, I'm refinishing an old AB set of CLW, PA's in Santa Fe head dress currently...A project left in limbo until painting weather finally returned to Southern Ontario.

Bruce

I’m extremely impressed with your silver work, it looks very smooth and silky ……do you happen to have a can part number, or even a picture of the can?…thanks!…impeccable work!..

Pat

Thanks for the compliments, Pat.  Dupli-Color, Perfect Match, Bright Silver Metallic is code CBCC0410.   I believe it indicates a Chrysler color.

As applied, the lacquer based color flattens out in a level surfaced finish that does little to fill imperfections and cover crisp detail.  It also becomes relatively fragile as it thoroughly dries so it benefits from a durable coat of clear to prevent chipping and wear through on edges. The silver will appear to become overly gray when overcoated with clear but returns to bright silver once dry.

I can still source spray cans of clear lacquer, of a type other than Dupli-Color, which makes a durable final coating.  It hardens to a semi glossy surface, workable with fine grit paper and compound to produce an ultra smooth, glossy surface.  Dupli-Color clear never seems to fully dry for some reason and always feels slightly tacky to the touch.  Where fine detail is abundant, which is on most loco and cars, I clear with the Varathane, hope the job remains dirt free and leave it at that.

The majority of my repaints do not turn out smooth like the factory jobs but under the correct conditions they look pretty respectable coming from a rattle can.  I only wish Dupli-Color came in a variety of railroad colors.

Bruce

@brwebster posted:

A William's shell on an MTH chassis controlled by ERR.

Bruce

Back in my younger days early 1980s when Junker American Flyer S Gauge Pennsy K-5 Pacifics were easy to find, I repainted three of them one in Penn Central black, one in Conrail Blue and one in Amtrak silver, red and blue. I listed them in ebay in 2003 when I thinned my duplicates and other items and was shocked on how much people bid on them.