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Does anyone have specific information on what was right and wrong with the various iterations of the K-Line cruise? As I understand it, the bare bones is that there were versions 1.0-4.0. 1.0 was horrible, 2.0 wasn't a lot better, 3.0 was a big improvement, and 4.0 was quite good. All this is hearsay; I have several K-Line engines but have not installed the cruise upgrades on any of the steamers. What were the specific problems with the K-Line cruise, and were they all fixed in 4.0? 

 

Also, what about the cruise for diesels? What models was that installed on, and was a kit ever available? I've been told that the Weaver Little Joe electric had K-Line cruise. Is that true, and if so, which version? Thanks.

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Well, I have several locomotives with the K-Line cruise, but I'm not entirely sure which version they have, as the documentation available leaves something to be desired.  I know that one has the "Legacy like" flywheel toothed wheel, while at least one other has an older style encoder similar to the MTH PS/2 stuff.  The one that has the Legacy looking flywheel works very well, the other one is decent, but it seems to have delays built in to the operation at time, kinda like the TAS EOB did.

 

I have several others that had issues with the cruise to the point they now have the Cruise Commander, which is why I recommend it.

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I know that one has the "Legacy like" flywheel toothed wheel, while at least one other has an older style encoder similar to the MTH PS/2 stuff.

 

That's interesting. I've only seen the later version. I've never taken apart a Legacy unit, but I assume you are describing something that looks like the motor in the photo below, as opposed to the MTH and TAS speed controls that have speed control stripes on the side of the flywheel. 

 

The upgrade kits have the version number on a sticker on the bottom of the board, per the one in the photo which is 3.0. I don't know about factory installations, never having worked on one. Did the K-Line Shay have the factory cruise? I have one of those but I've never messed with the motor driver board. I replaced the sound board but the rest of it works OK. 

K-Line Cruise Upgrade

 

 

 

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  • K-Line Cruise Upgrade

Here's a brief summary of my experience...  I purchased the K-Line EP-5...  It had K-Line cruise control but I don't remember which version it had...  The operation of the engine with cruise turned on was erratic and problematic [to put it kindly]... I always ran it with cruise turned off and the engine performed well...  I finally removed the K-line cruise control and installed a cruise commander M...  [The locomotive already had TMCC]...  Engine operates very well with the cruise commander M...

If this helps:

 

I have installed a K-line cruise kit in one of their Hudsons; works well, easy installation.

 

My K-line Berkshires* and my K-line E8's cruise well.

 

My 4-6-6 tanker is pretty good - a little surging, but very little, and it actually seems

to have improved (it is not a mechanical issue - the wee surge was absent when cruise

was turned off).

 

*I got a used, abused and re-assembled (not by me, but done correctly) Conventional IC Berkshire in trade; the cruise is awful and is left turned off. The surging is dramatic; I'm the third owner, so who knows?

Runs well, cruise-less, so far as Conventional goes.

I have a K-Line shay with the original cruise, and it works quite well. I can’t say which version of the cruise it is, but it holds speeds very reliably and can go incredibly slowly, even under conventional control.  It is just a little touchy compared to other systems - sometimes a small move of the throttle results in a jump in speed - but I'm happy enough with it to leave it alone.

Originally Posted by Bob Karas:

K-line had several versions of driver boards, with 4.0 the best, with this one being the final one before This company closed shop. These boards 4.0 are still available as of today.If your eng is working fine I would not mess with it.

With k-line the biggest problem with this system you need to know how to program the driver board to a specific type eng. This makes a eng that runs poorly to a good working system. I have fixed many k-line cruise systems  with a simple reprogramming. When installing a new driver board ( say  old board was 1.0 or 2.0 or 3.0 to new  4.0)  into your eng,  you need to program the driver wheel diameter and gear ratio into the system..Not to many people know how to do this.  This programming will make the cruise run just as good as Lionel's in my opinion. K-lines optical sensor is just like Lionel's. Kline came up with it and then Lionel improved it.


Can you tell us how this is done?  G

Originally Posted by lpb007:

I have 2 k-Line Mikados and one Berkshire, each with factory installed TMCC. I would like to add ERR Cruise Commander M to these locomotives.  I have never had to opened them. Is there room to easily make these installations without modifications to the shells?  Thanks,  Pat B.

The ERR Cruise Commander M replaces the same size DCDR in the locomotive, so it's a drop-in with the addition of one wire to bring in serial data.  To be fair, the CCM is about 1/8" longer, but that is not normally an issue.

 

This is for K-Line stuff that does NOT have the cruise factory installed.

Dave;

From my experience the K-Line Hudson cruise kit is plug and play in the scale Hudson, the only exception being the soldering of the serial wire as mentioned above.

If you are using the Hudson kit it is already programmed for the correct drive ratio and wheel diameter.

The Hudson kit is actually the same one as for the scale Mikado, so they both must use the same drive ratio and wheel diameters that are compatible.

 

Rod

Originally Posted by Rod Stewart:

 

The Hudson kit is actually the same one as for the scale Mikado, so they both must use the same drive ratio and wheel diameters that are compatible.

 

Rod

 

i've been wondering about that. The driver diameter on a Hudson and a USRA Mikado are nowhere near the same, so if they are going to use the same programming, the gear ratio has to be different in proportion to the difference in driver diameter to maintain the same overall drive ratio (i.e. turns of the flywheel per foot of motion on track). This proposition could be tested, but since I don't have a Hudson, I can't do it. 

 

Although it is generally believed that the Hudson and Mikado kits are the same, I wonder if they actually have the same programming. Most of the kits you see are labeled Hudson, but K-Line did issue a separate Mikado kit under a different product number. I've only seen a couple of these and they were version 4.0 stamped 2005 on the box. It could be that the kits will work either way, they just produce different speeds on the two locomotives at any given speed step. The only way you would notice a difference is if you were doubleheading, and who doubleheads a Hudson and a Mikado? The real railroads did it, using a Mike as a helper for a passenger train on a steep grade, but I've never seen anyone try it on an 0 gauge layout.

Thanks Rod, Thanks Pete !!!

 

I haven't taken the kit out of the box yet but I thought it better to be forewarned and prepared rather than to find myself in a mess and have to turn to my friends here on the forum once the locomotive was spread out like in an instruction sheet 'exploded view'...

 

Best,

Dave

If it's twitchy, just change it to 128 speed steps. I forget the exact sequence of button pushes but it's in the instructions.

Originally Posted by 49Lionel:

I have a K-Line shay with the original cruise, and it works quite well. I can’t say which version of the cruise it is, but it holds speeds very reliably and can go incredibly slowly, even under conventional control.  It is just a little touchy compared to other systems - sometimes a small move of the throttle results in a jump in speed - but I'm happy enough with it to leave it alone.

 

Gunrunnnerjohn, Thanks for the reply, very helpful. I believe that I will make this mod.

Originally Posted by lpb007:

I have 2 k-Line Mikados and one Berkshire, each with factory installed TMCC. I would like to add ERR Cruise Commander M to these locomotives.  I have never had to opened them. Is there room to easily make these installations without modifications to the shells?  Thanks,  Pat B.

The ERR Cruise Commander M replaces the same size DCDR in the locomotive, so it's a drop-in with the addition of one wire to bring in serial data.  To be fair, the CCM is about 1/8" longer, but that is not normally an issue.

 

This is for K-Line stuff that does NOT have the cruise factory installed

I'm not sure why the drive ratio needs to be programmed into the board either. It probably makes a difference if you are using the same hardware for a diesel or a steamer, since the driver diameter is way different there. I'm not at all worried about ease of installation, it's obviously dead easy. I am just trying to find out whatever I can about the system and especially the differences between 3.0 and 4.0. I'm also hoping that Bob K will make the programming instructions available - hopefully it doesn't also require specialized hardware. 

Thanks for posting that. It looks familiar; I may have copied it the first time, but I downloaded it again just to be sure. 

Originally Posted by Norton:

A few years ago I copied a few posts from the forum pertinent to K-Line Cruise into a Word document. It doesn't look like it is complete with all the info Bob K implied he had but it might help those who noted a jerkiness with the engine.

 

Pete

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

How about an anonymous posting so you're not blamed for the person screwing up their locomotive?   It really would be useful information to have, and that's really one of the great things about this forum, the sharing of information.

 

Or just a simple disclaimer essentially telling people if they do perform the programming they do so at their own risk.

Great info Bob. Thank you. You mention not being able to return to the original settings which makes sense if you were not the one who programed it in the first place but can I assume if you do try and reprogram it and maybe input a wrong number or still find it is not right that I could try and program it again until I did get it right?

 

Also I wasn't aware that K-Line Cruise could control chuff rate. Can it in fact control chuff like DCS or TAS chuff & puff based on wheel diameter? If so I assume you have to move a wire from the micro switch to the cruise board??

 

Pete

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