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Hi All

I have fitted Kadee 745 couplers to my scratch built wagons, but they uncouple on curves if the train moves back - even a small amount.

The curves are very slight; here's a photo . . .

SW 24

Hardly anything.  Now, the train moves back a few millimetres . . .

SW 25

The centering spring flicks the couplers open as soon as the pressure is released.

So, I'm thinking about . . .

a)  filing the inside of the jaws to increase the size of the existing leading edge hooks; and/or

b)  cutting the coil spring down a bit to reduce its power.

Any ideas, Gents?

Cheers

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  • SW 24
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I was just trying to extrapolate my troubleshooting experiences with HO and N-scale Kadee couplers. I don't use Kadee couplers for O-gauge.

If the shanks are especially short that might be an issue, especially when running cars of different lengths into curves. But your illustrated case is a miniscule curve.

If your wheels have some drag it maintains tension on the coupler to help keep them coupled, especially when pulling single cars. But of course that's a trade off, since free-rolling wheels are desirable.

Maybe some careful work with a needle file in the right places would help, but that shouldn't normally be necessary. Is the trouble just with this pair of cars, or with others also?

Thanks for your replies, guys.

Matt's explanation was close.  I was actually not tightening the screws enough, allowing the draft box to swing.  

It wasn't very much, but it was enough.

OK on the straight, but it looks like it was affecting a few of them on the curves.

Maybe I'll put a bit of CA on the backs once I get them lined up.

At least it's an easy fix. 

I appreciate your input.

 

MaxSouthOz posted:

Thanks for your replies, guys.

Matt's explanation was close.  I was actually not tightening the screws enough, allowing the draft box to swing.  

It wasn't very much, but it was enough.

OK on the straight, but it looks like it was affecting a few of them on the curves.

Maybe I'll put a bit of CA on the backs once I get them lined up.

At least it's an easy fix. 

I appreciate your input.

 

Glad you're getting close to a solution. I like the 745's for brass cars as the box insulates the couplers from the car frame and prevents the risk of cars shorting through the coupler connection. But the boxes definitely flex when tightened too much and stick the coupler really well.

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