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Have been having problems with a LionChief 0-8-0 steam engine stalling for a short distance through FasTrack O36 manual switches.  I have seen some posts on this but am looking for more ideas.  This is on a museum layout that children operate.  If the train is going fast enough, its inertia does carry it through of course.  Also, a member worked a little on loosening and/or tightening mounting screws which helped but did not completely solve.

The root problem seems to be that, by design and necessity, there is dead ground rail through the frog area and the engine, for a short distance, is dependent on ground pick up from only one side on the outside rail.  The three wheels without the traction tire seem to all be lifted above the rail not making contact.

Here is a photo that more or less shows this problem on a switch.  In this case, the traction tire was swelled up and I believed replacing it would solve the problem.

IMG_0098

I replaced the traction tire with a proper one for the 0-8-0 and still had the problem, although it was better.  The engine was dead for only about an inch of travel.  I then replaced the traction tire with one designed for the smaller diameter of a diesel so it would stretch to be thinner.  This made a slight further improvement, but it still stalled at slow speeds.

This photo shows the three traction tires and the diesel one is very slightly less protruding than the proper 0-8-0 tire and doesn't hardly protrude at all.

IMG_0101 - 105 - 106 Composite

I have looked up keep alive schemes on the forum but didn't find one that was "on point" for a LionChief engine.  And I have never been able to find a schematic.  However, since the layout is being powered by DC (via a LionChief WallPack), I suppose a keep alive could simply be put between track power pickup and the electronics without having to figure out how to insert it IN to the electronics.

I also saw a suggestion about switching drivers which, I suppose, would be switching the front and rear drivers.  The front axle has the cam operating a push rod for smoke chuff.  But we don't use smoke so that would not matter.  We could switch drivers and just toss the push rod.

However, since this is for a museum layout, and I might not always be around to fuss with engines (such as when they get a replacement engine) I would like to find a solution that did not require mods to the engine.  So that circles back to how to modify or fix track to get things reliable.

So, any further ideas for track changes, or even more ideas for engine changes, would be appreciated.

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Images (2)
  • IMG_0101 - 105 - 106 Composite: Showing three traction tire thicknesses
  • IMG_0098: Showing three drivers lifted from rail
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I’m not familiar with your engine or Fastrack turnouts. On a couple of my engines with wireless tethers one being a early Legacy 0-8-0. I added a jumper wire between the engine and tender which gives the engine side 8 more wheels contacting the outer rails. If the tender has a axle wiper mounted on the truck. I’d go right there. I used just a wire with rings and used screws already in place. You end up handling the engine and tender as one. But it’s small enough in size it’s not an big issue. You could also just look for a single wire plug in connection.

@Chuck K. posted:

This is on a museum layout that children operate...

I replaced the traction tire with a proper one for the 0-8-0 and still had the problem, although it was better.  The engine was dead for only about an inch of travel.  I then replaced the traction tire with one designed for the smaller diameter of a diesel so it would stretch to be thinner.  This made a slight further improvement, but it still stalled at slow speeds...

However, since this is for a museum layout, and I might not always be around to fuss with engines... ...to get things reliable.

So, any further ideas for track changes, or even more ideas for engine changes, would be appreciated.

The problem is that the wires in the tether to the tender are brittle and breaking. One of the wires through the tether is additional ground contact through the tender wheels, as Lionel knew about this problem, and that was their fix.

Last edited by ADCX Rob
@ADCX Rob posted:

The problem is that the wires in the tether to the tender are brittle and breaking. One of the wires through the tether is additional ground contact through the tender wheels, as Lionel knew about this problem, and that was their fix.

That was exactly the problem.  I had already fixed it down at museum before I got home and saw your post.  Another suggestion had been to add a wire for tender pick up and that sort of rang a bell.  I had lost sound in one of these a couple years ago due to a broken wire the same way.  I noticed the third wire and even made a note of it, and then must have forgotten about it.  That prior post dislodged my memory and I drove down to the museum and, voila, that was it.  You can see the broken wire in the middle of this photo.  These engines get WAY more operating time (and entering and exiting curves) than probably any home layout.  So, the wires get a lot of flexing.  (Same for wires for passenger cars and we may think about upgrading their design a bit.)

For reference, if anybody wants to know.  The outer two wires are for the speaker.  The connection one position in from the fireman's side is the pick up from the front tender truck (they use the front truck only for power pick up).  The remaining contact is not used.  So, just three wires.

IMG_0115

Of course, this makes tender truck wheel cleanliness important.  While the docents are fairly good about cleaning locomotive wheels, they tend to not bother with rolling stock including tenders.  (We will have to give them a little added training for this.)

This is what the wheels looked like before cleaning.  That shiny coating acts as a pretty good insulator and it takes a little work to remove it (we just use 70% alcohol and a microfiber rag).

IMG_0119

After cleaning:

IMG_0123

With the wire fixed AND the wheels clean, there is no stalling at all.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • IMG_0115: Broken wire to tender side of drawbar connector
  • IMG_0119: Wheel before cleaning
  • IMG_0123: Wheel after cleaning

Thanks.  That's a good suggestion.  I had been thinking something more durable was needed.  The thing is, I have at least EIGHT of these engines to deal with as I have provided many spares to two children's layouts I have made - at the San Luis Obispo Railroad Museum (CA) and at the Exploration Discovery Center in Grover Beach (CA).  I don't need yet another project right now, but I suspect it is a "pay me now or pay me later" situation.

@Chuck K. posted:

The layout is completely flat.  However, I don't know if any issues are created by having a wheel designed for a traction tire left empty.  That leaves a recess in tread.

Unless it is really convenient, I seldom replace traction tires when they die. For one reason, I really hate the things ("hey, an electrical circuit - let's throw an insulator into it...."), and for the other - I have never experienced any issues once they are gone.

My track is GarGraves, with switches. My equipment is all brands, and typically is scale/Hi-Rail. Lots of heavy steam.

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