hello when using this transformer with a whistle tender the whistle will work fine with the engine not running with the engine running the whistle will not blow. the tender on another track with a zw transformer works with the engine running anyting i should look at to get it to work with the engine running
kevin
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Start with replacing the whistle rectifier, part #1041-13
Larry
I'm going to assume this is an old train with a whistle motor in the tender. It may just.need some cleaning, oil and/or motor brush (contact) attention. It may require some dissembling. If you are not up for do it yourself send it out.
Other wise remove the shell if it looks like the attached picture saturate the wicks with oil. Some you have to remove the two nuts to seprate the case halves apply a drop of oil to the shaft at the imeller AND a TINY drop to the other side of the shaft at the electrical brush plate. Look at the copper plate on the spinning armature. Even? It shouldn't be grooved and can often be sanded smooth for better electrical flow.(search & read up on these topics for more exacting info)
Check/wipe the brushes and springs that hold them in the brass tubes on the brush plate. They should be "long barrels" new, start thinking about a swap when they look like a "perfect" or squat barrel. They need pressure and if you think a spring is soft it likely might be. (brushes & springs are chicken feed cheap)
Then there is the relay. It has a moving arm & a pair of contacts. Clean them gently; alchohol and then closing them on clean absorbant paper or cardboard then pulling gently to wipe.
Clean your wheels and rollers. On wheels, if you've not cleaned them often, you better scratch at the wheel metal. The wheel gunk can easily look just like metal even after a wipe with alcohol and gets hard as a rock; camouflage! (keep solvents off of body paint and plastics 
)
Let us know what happens.
Servicing the tender and locomotive is a good place to start like @Adriatic said! It can't hurt to replace the rectifier as @TrainLarry suggested. If you are going to replace the rectifier disk, it can't hurt to consider replacing it with a stud diode. Some of the favorite recommendations are the 1N1190AR, 1N1186AR, or 1N1184AR diodes available from many electronics suppliers such as Mouser, DigiKey, Newark Element 14 and so on.
Here is a good post showing one being installed in a 1033 - your process will be very similar as it uses the same rectifier disc. https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...sion-for-lionel-1033
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