I need a bell button to work with my Post War ZW. Any ideas, diagrams, parts lists?
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You can buy a momentary contact switch from radio shack, or find PW accessory buttons for less than $5 at shows or shops easily enough. Why re-invent the wheel?
I need a bell not directional button
Originally Posted by artyoung:
You can buy a momentary contact switch from radio shack, or find PW accessory buttons for less than $5 at shows or shops easily enough. Why re-invent the wheel?
I think he's referring to the bridge rectifier and associated wiring needed for a "bell button" not a momentary switch.
I think that you are probably looking for a Lionel 6-5906 bell/sound activation button. You can probably find one of these at your LHS, but if not. here's a link to one retailer. 
This link might be of interest.
This link might be of interest as well, and it's right here at OGR. 
I have one FOR SALE! You can have it for $10.00 PLUS $3.00 Postage.
FREDSTRAINS
Fred that would have worked,but I just got back from buying diodes .
John I saw yours and I looked at Dale H. on the blog. What would be the differences between yours with 5 ,and Dale's with 6?
One diode? I just looked at the DC offsets and figured that 5V gives me plenty to rung the bell or horn. I get a bit over 2V at load, and that's handled any PW or modern whistle and bell. There's nothing wrong with Dale's scheme, I'm sure it works fine.
Is this a case where more is better?
Well, that depends. More diodes equates to more voltage drop. So, if you have more diodes, you need more headroom with the transformer voltage as you are dropping more across the diodes.
Maybe I will set it up with 6 test it ,then cut one off each side test it with 5 on each side. I want the bell function so I can do the reset.
More "head room " does that mean I need to crank up the voltage higher to make it work?
Correct, "headroom" is cranking up the throttle to make up for the losses in the diodes. You can put six each way and just jumper one to see the effect.
OK, so i guess there is more than one way to "skin a cat". seems to me, that both the 6-5906 and the design by Susan deats [as posted by ross} that track power is straight thru, no track power drop. the only time the diodes come into play is WHEN the nc "normally closed" button is pushed. so i assume there isnt heating of the diodes. Then there are the designs by both Dale h and GRJ where power is ALWAYS passing thru the diodes, so now a power drop of approx 3v [.6x5] to the track while creating heating of the diodes as they are in constant play. I use the 5906's with no problems BUT the skimpy wires have been upgraded to 18 awg. SO, what is the advantage / dis-advantage of either design ??
I might try one of them as well. Will see how this works first.
Originally Posted by og fan:
OK, so i guess there is more than one way to "skin a cat". seems to me, that both the 6-5906 and the design by Susan deats [as posted by ross} that track power is straight thru, no track power drop. the only time the diodes come into play is WHEN the nc "normally closed" button is pushed. so i assume there isnt heating of the diodes. Then there are the designs by both Dale h and GRJ where power is ALWAYS passing thru the diodes, so now a power drop of approx 3v [.6x5] to the track while creating heating of the diodes as they are in constant play. I use the 5906's with no problems BUT the skimpy wires have been upgraded to 18 awg. SO, what is the advantage / dis-advantage of either design ??
What is " the design by Susan deats [as posted by ross} that track power is straight thru, no track power drop. the only time the diodes come into play is WHEN the nc "normally closed" button is pushed."?
Haven't seen that one...
Ed
The test results are in.....
Test track 5 lap times (See post on "I think I Need A Bigger Test
Track https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/d...nt/12129988052277760
17.5 volts at ZW
6 diodes 1min 28 sec 14.5 volts at track
5 diodes 1min 07 sec 15 volts at track
straight with out diodes 30 sec. 17.5 volts at track
Buttons work the same with 5 or 6 diodes.
I think I will try Susan Deats configuration.
Stay tuned for results...............
What is Susan Deats configuration?
EDIT: Saw it above. The issue with that is that you'll get a significant slowdown when you do use the whistle or bell, with the diode drops always in the picture, you just have to supply more initial voltage, but you don't lose voltage when you use the function.
I'll watch with interest how it works out, I don't run conventional, so I haven't done extensive research on the various methods.
I knew what the results would be . Just like if you use the whistle control on the ZW. It drops the voltage 2v.
Reverse the in & out =Whistle or Bell
I only need the bell ZW has the whistle already .
I like it this way better and that is how I'm going to wire it.
Will post some pic's tomorrow need to get a NC switch.
Thanks to everyone that posted reply's , For me Susan Deats had the winning bell button.
Now to build a bigger test track
Ok, I'm putting on the dummy hat in the corner{no nuns with rulers...shudder}, I have an old ZW with the whistle, and want a bell button too, and the above hsows how to make this box....nice...but how is this wired in? The above pic shows wires to either side of the box...is this a "pass thru" on one lead...or what?
