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Hi everyone, I have this MTH Proto 2 FP40 h engine that starts making a noise and I don't think it is spose to be there! Any help would be great! I don't know a lot about this engine as I bought it used . Here is a video of the engine so you can hear the noise. I am running it on a short section of track with a Z4000 and MTH DCS system.


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Did you try an engine reset? I forget how to do it, but it should be in the DCS instructions. Also, is the battery fully charged? If not, do that first before the engine reset.

I did have one engine where certain sound clips were corrupt, but that was PS3 and new. They were registered in the engine with the wrong bit-type indicator. I fixed them myself using SanDiegoMark's software program.

Also, you can try reinstalling the sound file through the DCS loader program.

If all else fails, contact GGG. He can fix almost any MTH engine.


Hey Mike... When you press the PSA, the engine does it's routine with each direction press and eventually after the  bell stops ringing you gain control of the engine again.

Lets say I don't want to listen to all that or only part of the announcements, press the psa again and  you now regain  engine control without having  to go through the whole sequence.  


   The PFA is a sequence that you help operate, you will need to read the instruction or get the OGR Video Guide to DCS and Rich Melvin explains the entire step by step function of the PFA.  Each group of engines has it's own PFA program, with different programmed steps.  The Engine 1st stops, starts to talk at the end of the talking you must initiate the next step, it goes thru all the steps and then automatically starts up again and you the engineer have control of the engine once again.  It's a way cool part of the DCS.  Educate your self on the PFA before you mess with it any further.


Thanks guys! I guess I am going to have to get the video, as I have a hard time understanding some of it as I read it. I do have Barry's book, I just have to take my time! 

Dave quick side question, I can wire 2 tracks off of fixed 1 correct? If so do I just run it into a block then to the 2 different tracks? or do I have to use  fixed 2 for the second track?

So did the sound go away with smoke off?  You have 2 methods hear. You can test conventional and use the pots/switch to control volume and smoke.  Turn volume down and smoke on and see if sound remains?  If so reverse and turn sounds on and smoke off?  If goes away, lubricate smoke fan motor shaft at impeller side with a drop of oil.  G

Hi G, the sound went away after I turned off the smoke and turned on the sound. I haven't had a chance to try it again today but hope to in about an hour! I will let you know what happens. I know it should have smoke, but don't see where to add it and don't have a manual for it. Thanks for checking in, I know your one of the best in the game here.

quick side question, I can wire 2 tracks off of fixed 1 correct? If so do I just run it into a block then to the 2 different tracks? or do I have to use  fixed 2 for the second track?

You can certainly try it... Yes run the output to a terminal block and then from the terminal block to each / track  loop. You should be just fine providing the loops aren't tooo big.

Or you can use the same power supply and jumper fixed 1 IN over to fixed 2 in and then out to each loop.... This would almost  guarantee a good dcs signal... lots of options.

Big Mike G,

   You can wire your layout either way, it all depend on what you want to due.  I use the Terminal Blocks to run a few different FasTrack layouts from each TIU channel.  You can however run just one train/track from each TIU channel, if you like. As you wire your new layout, just remember to run in Blocks with no more than 10 - 13 Track joins to each Block, as you add your wire drops. I suggest using Toggle switches on your sidings to help limit the power going to them, especially if you have a lot of lighted passenger Cars sitting on your sidings.  Keeping your Engines & lighted rolling stock on those tracks shut down, when not in use, then opening the Toggle Switch when you decide to run the Train on that siding.  

The old ZW's with their 4 different independently Controllable Channels are great for running DCS, I have several of them, just remember to place 10 Amp Resettable Breakers between the old ZW Transformers on every Red (hot) line gong to your TIU, the ZW's have old type slow breakers in them, that can damage your DCS & Legacy Engines.  If you can afford a couple Z4K's with their 2 channels I highly recommend them also, great power for DCS Layouts, especially with the side receivers that open up many different running options.  I own 3 Z4K's all have their own side receivers.  I do not believe in using Bricks, they limit being able to increase and decrease power delivery as needed for my layouts.  Other guys who engineer in a different manner love them however.  If you want to mortgage your home the new ZW-L is fantastic also.

One further recommendation, I use the Etekcity  Remote Control Programmable Switches on all the power to my layouts, instant on/off safety for your layouts at the push of a button.  They work perfectly, actually I have to credit Barry B for finding them on line, I was using the older Stanley's RM units and Barry researched and found these better units.

Always over power your layouts for expansion and best running results.

Scotty we need more power!


Note the 10 Amp Resettable Breaker Bank almost out of the picture, just to the right of the DCS HHRC, mounted just below the TIU.  I even use them with the Z4K's.






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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

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