Skip to main content

I have a Legacy GP9 engine that I got over the holidays via a gift certificate. I'm mostly MTH but thought I would give Legacy a try. Overall, I love this engine. Detail is excellent. Sounds and lights are fantastic. Speed control ditto. I would give all these features the edge over similar MTH features. Then there's the electrocouplers. Not impressed. They do work with the Cab 1L but compared to the MTH engines they can require quite a "hit" to make a connection. In some cases even with a backstop the engine wheels will spin and still no connect. With the MTH I can roll in at 5 smph in most cases and sometimes on a single car. There's a gentle "clink" and off I go. Anybody have advice on getting the Legacy couplers to loosen up? I tried dry lube. Other than a big mess not much improvement. Thanks.

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I have made several couplers butter smooth by removing the knuckle and smoothing all the mating surfaces.  This was suggested by Boxcar Bill here in the forum, and it works very well.  They went from the "crash" coupling to some of the smoothest couplers that I've ever had.

Thanks John. I think I remember that topic if it was recent. Is this something easily done with the electrocouplers?

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Don't try to use a PS/2 coupler on the Lionel boards, it doesn't work well and will frequently take out the triac.  The impedance of the PS/2 coupler is much too low for the Lionel stuff.  PS/1 couplers work fine for Lionel.

Think I'll try your original approach first John. I feel better about rivet remove and replace as a first try. I don't have access to any PS1 couplers.

I use the Brakeman's Rivet Tool for any riveting I need to do.  It makes the job easier, though you can use a center punch and light hammer.  You have to have three hands for the hammer and center punch, that's why I picked up this tool.

 

For removing them, it depends on how loose they are.  If there's some play, I try to crush one end or nip it off and pull them out.  If there's no play, I normally have to drill them out.

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I use the Brakeman's Rivet Tool for any riveting I need to do.  It makes the job easier, though you can use a center punch and light hammer.  You have to have three hands for the hammer and center punch, that's why I picked up this tool.

 

For removing them, it depends on how loose they are.  If there's some play, I try to crush one end or nip it off and pull them out.  If there's no play, I normally have to drill them out.

 

Whoa, very impressive and specifically for model trains!

 

Here's what the Brakeman's website recommends for $100:

 

If you don't want to spend more than $100.00, the "Original Riveting (O-Gauge) Starter Set" for $100.00 (first three items on the list at the top of this page) is a good choice. It will allow you to do most Lionel "Post War" riveting repairs including knuckle couplers, slide shoes, armature spring rivets and a host of other small and mid-sized rivets. If you do not need to replace trucks, then the Original Riveting Starter Set for O-Gauge is for you.

 

Will this set be good for the knuckle couplers on modern o gauge? Sure looks like it.

Thanks!

Last edited by Former Member

Yep, that's probably my most common use.  I have both of the spring tools, and the larger one is good for truck rivets and other larger rivets.  I fixed a bunch of 022 switches some time back, it was easy when you have the proper tools to take the contact plates and the like off.

 

I don't have the big blocks that were specific for certain engines, I figured the chance that I'd need those was pretty small.  I did spring for the nice wooden box, it's a handy place to keep all the parts.

 

 

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×