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I've aquired an NW2 Diesel switcher that looks pretty old.  The wiring on the inside is a mess in that someone rigged a light to make the front bulb shine; however, used silver duct table to hold everything in place.  The gearing on the drive trucks is whobbly..  the gears are wobbling around and it looks like there is nothing holding them in place.  I need to identify which switcher I have so that I can then find an exploded view and order parts so that I can rebuild the dorky thing.

 

The chassis is metal and looks to have a part number of 8010-11.  The cover says Erie with the numbers 8356 below the cab windows.  There are bunches of aesthetic issues, but I'm not worried about them.  I mianly want to just rebuild the electric bits to make the thing work right and not grind the gears.  I got it off ebay (said good condition), item number is 231422213535 if you can glean anything else from the acution.

 

Thanks in advance.

Crusty.

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Dave,

 

I'm a complete Nube with this stuff.  Mechanically speaking, I'm excellent with tools, but with regards to nomenclature, or technical terms, I'm an idiot....   thus, you'll need to speak to me as such... LOL (I don't recall ever asking someone to treat me like I'm stupid)....  

I briefly went to the Olsen's site, but I'm not sure how to start and the site looks like it's having trouble anyway.  I'll call Jeff as suggested.

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:
The part number has been changed to 600-8010-117.

Rob et al.  Sounds like this Jeff-person is an awesome dude.  Maybe I should just have him over for dinner, we'll talk trains and he'll show me how much I don't know, then I'll order parts from him over desert.  URGH!  

 

This is frustrating because I could talk your ear off about motorcycles or model airplanes.

 

Rob - How am I supposed to know what the new prefix is?  I'm assuming it's the same for all the parts on this loco, but, just in case, I get a little happy with my dissassembly....

 

The thumping noise you hear is my head hitting the wall repeatedly...  the giggle is my children thinking I'm just being silly.

Originally Posted by cptcrusty1:
How am I supposed to know what the new prefix is?  I'm assuming it's the same for all the parts on this loco, but, just in case, I get a little happy with my dissassembly....

Google the original part numbers, or look them up on parts dealers' websites. For MPC/Fundimensions parts, many parts have the added the "600" prefix, but only by Lionel.

 

This was done to be able to track parts electronically, so all parts have a 10 digit number. Old part number 8xxx-3 becomes 600-8xxx-003, for example, and then it follows - 8xxx-20 becomes 600-8xxx-020 and so forth. Changes that use a part which has been superseded appear to not follow this due to the substitution.

Last edited by ADCX Rob

I've taken the top off and pulled the motor truck off.  I pulled the top of the motor off and looked inside it's belly.  It's horrible in there.  Not to mention the two pinion gears are wobbling around like they aren't secured to anything, which can't be the case.

 

Is there a thread that describes how to pull this thing apart?  It looks like it's held together with compression settings of some sort.  Kind of like what you'd find in the top of a hammer.  I have a good amount of experience with small gas motors and pretty good mechanical know-how.  Pulling it apart CORRECTLY will be my next ticket.

 

Here's a couple shots to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with.

 

 

Attachments

Images (4)
  • 20141231_002651: you can see both pinion gears at an odd angle.
  • 20150102_095506: You can see all the hair and crud in there.  Needs cleaned and a good coat of grease.  Axle Bearings seem ok.
  • 20150102_095522: Another shot of the crud.  Top of the armature where the brushes come in contact is also pretty dirty.
  • 20150102_100534: The black squares are how this whole thing is held together.

This will not be easy, but also not as bad as it looks.

 

You will have to remove the staking for the gear side truck side only, with a small grinder(Dremel, etc.) leaving enough material to cement it back after the repair(12 hour epoxy).

 

If you pull the two wheels, and maybe not even all the way, you will be able to replace the two worn nylon idler gears.

 

The gear studs should be fine, the nylon gear design was implemented in 1970 to allow gear wear without the brass-on-aluminum/steel and steel-on-aluminum/steel postwar(1955-1969) wear to the axles/studs that rendered those motors junk once worn out.

 

The rest of the gears(the worm wheel and drive gear) look good, and I wouldn't dis-assemble the truck any further as that would entail doing some irreversible damage to the original staking, and it would never be quite right again.

 

Clean all old grease & debris from the entire assembly. After pressing the wheels back on & gauging them, cement the truck side frame back on, you can re-stake if possible.

 

Lube it right. Use synthetic motor oil on the brass/Oilite axle bushings working it in well, and Lucas Red 'N' Tacky #2 on all side gears(and those two little idler studs), the worm(armature gear) and worm wheel, as well as the lower armature bearing below the worm gear.

 

The condition of the traction tires, rollers, and worm wheel point to a low-hours diesel loco, it was just run dry damaging the idler gears.

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