Postwar Lionel Repair Series “Updated 4/7/24”

To begin with, here’s one on Lionel’s Postwar 624 Diesel Switcher. 

Here’s one I just finished up yesterday:

Lionel’s Postwar Black 2332 GG1 Electric from 1947. It came out wonderfully!

These three matching FA Union Pacific AA sets just rolled into the Service Yard @ FRV.

Flint Rock Valley posted:

To begin with, here’s one on Lionel’s Postwar 624 Diesel Switcher. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fxJZTncAw0

Eli, great videos. Very thorough job, it’s probably running better than new! Amazing to see the old gears and commutator shine up like a new penny.

FYI - You can embed the YouTube url and it will show in the post. You have to click the insert media button shown below. Then copy and paste the YouTube url into the blank text field. 

JD2035RR posted:

Flint Rock Valley posted:

To begin with, here’s one on Lionel’s Postwar 624 Diesel Switcher. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fxJZTncAw0

Eli, great videos. Very thorough job, it’s probably running better than new! Amazing to see the old gears and commutator shine up like a new penny.

FYI - You can embed the YouTube url and it will show in the post. You have to click the insert media button shown below. Then copy and paste the YouTube url into the blank text field. 

Thank You so much for the compliments JD2035RR! 
Also thanks for the hint about embedded the links. Looks as if I’ll have to do that from the pc though, as I can’t find an option available via mobile phone. 
Glad you enjoyed the vids, Sir! 

if you flip your phone sideways, you should get the additional options. At least that’s how it works on my iPhone. 

keep up the good work!9

This is  a terrific series.

Mark

Thanks very much for sharing. These are very helpful.

Paul

JD2035RR posted:

if you flip your phone sideways, you should get the additional options. At least that’s how it works on my iPhone. 

keep up the good work!9

Ahh... I did learn something new today. 
Thanks again for the tip JD2035RR!! 
(‘Tis now updated...)

barrister.2u posted:

This is  a terrific series.

Mark

Thank You Mark! Glad you like them. They’ll be plenty more over time. 

Railrunnin posted:

Thanks very much for sharing. These are very helpful.

Paul

Paul, I’m so glad you like them! I’ve got tons of locos/ diesels/ & rolling stock to go through, so there will be lots more in the future. 

Wow....... a very kind gift to us for sharing your talents and know how. It gives us the courage to try and clean, repair and tune our own equipment. A very sincere “thank you” is all I can offer you.

David

Howdy Train Folk! 
Here’s a helpful little tip to make your layout a bit more interactive. 
Y’all enjoy... 

Happy Railroading! 

Suggestion:  When you add new video, edit the thread's title with the date of the update/new video.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...3#138963676826204573

Carl, the “date” is already on the topic reply... 

Doing as you suggest would make it appear as I’d shared all on this thread that same day/ date. 
Thanks for your input though, Sir! 

Another one ready for The Rails... 

(check video description for more details)

Though I am not an active PW guy... I was at one time until eventually my roots in HO won out.

Having said that, I note that there's just something relaxing and appealing about PW to me. Not for sure why, but I think it's because I like the heft, their simplistic and solidly-built nature, their smells (both sitting and running), their sounds they produce... and likely all of this is enhanced by their history and legacy.

I will say that it was great using actual screw drivers and tools to work on them! (You ought to see the tiny tools, drills, files, and such, I used to work in HO!)

So, I think a personal appreciation of PW is likely going to be with me the rest of my life, for its been with me for a long time. Perhaps "one of these days" I'll have another PW set... but I honestly don't know where I would put it! In a perfect world, I would have several buildings, each filled with a layout that caters to a specific interest!

Andre

Flint Rock Valley posted:

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...3#138963676826204573

Carl, the “date” is already on the topic reply... 

Doing as you suggest would make it appear as I’d shared all on this thread that same day/ date. 
Thanks for your input though, Sir! 

You missed the point, FRV.  By editing the thread's title to include the date of the newly added material, you alert readers, like me, that you have added new material.  Without the edited title, your thread may have appeared because someone replied to it and not because YOU added something new.

Do as you like, but no one is going to think that by adding a date for the update that your thread is only one day old, especially is you add something like:  "(Updated 3/21/2020)".

You seem to be a fairly good job on your repairs. I do dis-agree with one thing you did with the switcher. Instead of using that goop that you used to repair the wire with the bad insulation it would make a much more professional job if you had just replaced the wire with a new piece of super flex wire. If the wire insulation cracked it was probably getting brittle and will only get worse. I don't know anything about the product you used but have done work on engines that used some form of liquid tape that never really hardened and left quite a mess to be cleaned for proper repair. Not trying to be critical of your work. Just giving you my point of view on that particular part of it. Have fun with what you are doing. Thank you for your post. There are many here that will benefit from them.

Forest

Pingman posted:

Flint Rock Valley posted:

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...3#138963676826204573

Carl, the “date” is already on the topic reply... 

Doing as you suggest would make it appear as I’d shared all on this thread that same day/ date. 
Thanks for your input though, Sir! 

You missed the point, FRV.  By editing the thread's title to include the date of the newly added material, you alert readers, like me, that you have added new material.  Without the edited title, your thread may have appeared because someone replied to it and not because YOU added something new.

Do as you like, but no one is going to think that by adding a date for the update that your thread is only one day old, especially is you add something like:  "(Updated 3/21/2020)".

Hi Carl! 
Yeah, I truly didn’t understand the meaning behind it. If by doing so helps alert readers, such as yourself, & others that might be interested in said topic/s... then I shall give it a try, Sir. 

Forest posted:

You seem to be a fairly good job on your repairs. I do dis-agree with one thing you did with the switcher. Instead of using that goop that you used to repair the wire with the bad insulation it would make a much more professional job if you had just replaced the wire with a new piece of super flex wire. If the wire insulation cracked it was probably getting brittle and will only get worse. I don't know anything about the product you used but have done work on engines that used some form of liquid tape that never really hardened and left quite a mess to be cleaned for proper repair. Not trying to be critical of your work. Just giving you my point of view on that particular part of it. Have fun with what you are doing. Thank you for your post. There are many here that will benefit from them.

Forest

Forest, if that’s all that concerns you w/ the rebuild, then I’m confident I did a great job! Btw, the wire you’re referring to was in no way crusty or damaged, other than that one tiny little spot. 
I do thank you for your input. 

Hello, FRV...

Seriously... PLEASE start editing the thread title with " UPDATE ( insert relevant date here), whenever you add content to the thread. You have the ability to edit the title easily and it will alert us to new additional  content to those of us that run postwar Lionel. Otherwise it just becomes another " quirky poster" irritation, and I know you don't intend that. Hope you'll consider this. Your posts have alot of merit and information.

Thanks for considering this,

John

Finally replaced the halfway worn through roller on this little guy. Had some new brushes & springs to install too. It’s running as good as new. 
Had to drag these guys out from the pub when their rig was done being worked on. Now it’s time for them to get their lil butts back on the job... Gonna be a long night for these three!

Flint Rock Valley posted:

Forest posted:

You seem to be a fairly good job on your repairs. I do dis-agree with one thing you did with the switcher. Instead of using that goop that you used to repair the wire with the bad insulation it would make a much more professional job if you had just replaced the wire with a new piece of super flex wire. If the wire insulation cracked it was probably getting brittle and will only get worse. I don't know anything about the product you used but have done work on engines that used some form of liquid tape that never really hardened and left quite a mess to be cleaned for proper repair. Not trying to be critical of your work. Just giving you my point of view on that particular part of it. Have fun with what you are doing. Thank you for your post. There are many here that will benefit from them.

Forest

Forest, if that’s all that concerns you w/ the rebuild, then I’m confident I did a great job! Btw, the wire you’re referring to was in no way crusty or damaged, other than that one tiny little spot. 
I do thank you for your input. 

Your doing a great Job. Keep up the good work.

Forest

Flint Rock Valley posted:

Finally replaced the halfway worn through roller on this little guy. Had some new brushes & springs to install too. It’s running as good as new. 
Had to drag these guys out from the pub when their rig was done being worked on. Now it’s time for them to get their lil butts back on the job... Gonna be a long night for these three!

They must have been in the pub too long. They seem confused.

FRV, you da man!

John

John Meyncke posted:

Hello, FRV...

Seriously... PLEASE start editing the thread title with " UPDATE ( insert relevant date here), whenever you add content to the thread. You have the ability to edit the title easily and it will alert us to new additional  content to those of us that run postwar Lionel. Otherwise it just becomes another " quirky poster" irritation, and I know you don't intend that. Hope you'll consider this. Your posts have alot of merit and information.

Thanks for considering this,

John

 

Thank You for your interest John! Appreciate both You & Carl taking the time & effort to help w/ my post/s. Please let me know if I did it correctly. 
Thanks Guys! 

Eli, Thank You for editing the thread's title with the date of the update.

Today’s view from the Service Yard of FRV.
The second of the two 2023 Diesel Powered Alco A Units is now ready for reassembly.

I’ve also included a clip of the first set up & running... Hope Y’all enjoy! 

Had one small repair to make.

 I saw this prior to disassembly, but waited to fix it till afterwards. Luckily I had a stash of brand new drums on hand.
This 2023 should be good for another 70+ years of Fun...

Howdy Folks! No repairs in this clip, but thought y’all’d enjoy seeing the fruits of my labor... 

Not having a spare e-Unit drum on hand years ago, I replaced the broken stub by drilling a pilot hole where the the stub was and installed a small wood screw with smooth shaft near the screw head.  This fix did not require removing the drum from the e-Unit and is better than the original.

Charlie

You too can have Bulletproof Lionel O22 Switches... 

Do You want your Lionel O22’s to Switch w/ Precision Accuracy each & every single time you flick the toggle? I know I do...

Start by taking them apart & thoroughly clean all the parts & body w/ your choice of cleaning agent (these were done w/ mineral spirits).
Scrub your contact points w/ a scotchbrite pad & rinse clean.
If you’re in a hurry, you can use an air compressor to air blow dry until all wetness is gone from every surface.
Very sparingly oil pivot & sliding points.
Use a toothpick to apply a very tiny dab of white lithium grease to the inner edge of gear teeth.
Apply a tiny drop of oil on the underside of the frog pivot, above & below the plate.
Following these simple steps will help your switches to work w/ the precision they’re meant to, for many years to come.

On O22 switches, adding to the repair information.

A problem that I've seen with many of these switches is a malfunction of the non-derailing feature on the curved route.  The cause is an short or open circuit on the insulated piece of curved rail.  The symptom of a short is a switch that insists on jumping back to the diverging route when you throw it to straight, with a chatter if you hold the control lever.  If the non-derailing doesn't work on the curve, it's an open circuit at the same spot.

Here's how to fix either condition.

Take the bottom plate off by removing the there screws marked with a white tab in the first photo.  On later models there will be slotted round head screws.  Removing them takes socket wrench or a very tight frip with the right kind of pliers.

The next photo shows the connections on the bottom.  Note the arrow on the left pointing to the non-derailing curved section.  The double arrows on the right shows the two pins that connect the detector rail sections to the motor.  Those touch the four contacts that FRV recommends polishing.

The problem is with that blob of solder that connects to the non-derailing track section.  Looking at the photos, you can see how close together are the clips that hold the two curved track sections to the base.  If the solder touches that other contact, the motor coil throwing the switch to the curved route will be constantly energized and it will return automatically when you use the controller to switch it to the straight route.  You can break the connection with a soldering iron.  I use insulating tape to ensure the problem won't recur.  Then you need to re-solder the connection while using insulation to make sure you don't cause the shorting condition - difficult but can be done.

The shorting condition will also occur if that solder blob contacts the base plate - the main reason for that insulating card.

Further comment on O22 switches.  I have never used oil in a switch motor.  I find that a shot of WD-40 along anything that slides of rotates always makes the switch throw easily.

Eli, you do a great job cleaning those up with mineral spirits. I went through a number of 022s not too long ago and most of them (5/8) had a broken solder joint going to the curved control rail. Have you seen the same?

mlaughlinnyc, thanks for your additions. I didn’t see them when adding my last post. Precisely the problem I was having. 

Howdy Fellow Train Folk!
FRV is still alive. Took some time off here & there from the train room, but trying to make an effort on getting back in there & continuing progress on things. I’ve been sharing a few things on my fb page but wanted to stay connected w/ All of Y’all here as well.  
Recently came across these earlier Postwar Lionel 151 Semaphores. For those that are familiar w/ my layout, you’ll know that I use zero accessory contacts/ trackside controllers to operate said items. They take up too much space, are finicky, & plainly just get in my way that I don’t have much of. In the following clip I describe how to wire these up to operate independently of track power, yet still fully functional when your train passes by. I wanted to make this clip showing how to hard wire it, but due to the fact I’ve not found proper permanent placement yet this will suffice. Please pardon the alligator clips, just pretend that it’s hard wired for the interim. I’ve also attached a hand drawn wiring diagram, to help those of you figure this out for yourselves. If anyone has any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask, as I’m always glad to help out - however I’m able.
Looking forward to sharing lots more w/ everyone here in the future. Hope Y’all are doing wonderful & enjoying your summer!
Thanks for watching,      
Eli @ FRV

Interesting lesson Eli. One that I never saw before

Thanks

John, thank you for writing that recent article; it was very helpful.

Here’s some before/ after pics of detailed cleaning from 66+ years of funk on the frame & truck assemblies of Lionel’s Southern 2356T (Non Powered A Unit). In the last pic, you can see the amount of grime accumulated over the years from just this alone. All that’s needed now is to reattach the shell & lubricate for its new life here on the rails @ FRV.
Next up is the B Unit, then on to the A Powered Unit…

Happy Friday to Y’all Train Folk!

The 2356C is now ready for service.
Now for the Fun part!

Flint that is one good looking PW Sothern great shape and a job well done cleaning! By chance what do you use to clean? I enjoy buying PW engines that need to be brought back to life again and run for another 70 years. Think for me just tearing them apart and degreasing is just as much fun as running.  God Speed enjoy the fourth of July!

FRV’s latest Repair Series on Lionel’s Postwar 2356 Southern ABA.

Happy Railroading from The Beautiful Hill Country of Texas,

~Eli

Today’s Tip is brought to you by
800 Grit Sandpaper...

Do you want your contacts on your O22’s to be clean & refreshed as possible making a super snappy connection when activated?
Take a tiny piece of sandpaper (I’ve got all grits, but using 800 here) & polish the upper contact by applying lite pressure w/ your finger & scrub the paper back & forth a couple times. Flip over & get your bottom contact. I use a tiny flat end pick to apply pressure while scrubbing each available face as switch is in said position. The bath it’s sitting in is mineral spirits, which I find works best for me. You may choose whatever cleaning agent of your preference.
They’re so clean, an ant could use those contacts as a mirror. 🪞🐜
With a bit of elbow grease & effort, You too can have worrisome & trouble free O22’s that are super responsive & a pleasure to operate.    
Bottom pic is my current project. Finally getting around to cleaning switches & laying track for this 30”x8’ addition off the original 8’x8’ layout. Put it off for far to long, so I’m pretty excited to get this tackled!

From Eli here @ FRV,
Y’all have a Wonderful Monday!

I’m sure there’s info already out there like this, but here’s my take on it.
Lionel’s 153 Block Signal is a great little accessory, & is super easy to work right alongside your O22 Switch. This isn’t even three minutes long, & basically shows the tools & materials needed to perform a few simple tasks & perhaps have a “brighter” view of things.

Fresh off the rails from
the Service Yard of FRV…

We’ve got an Outstanding Crew at the Service Yard of FRV…
Their turnaround time for things that roll through their yard is amazing!

Step by Step Process on this fun addition to any layout.

Eli! Just what I have been looking for! It’s like Christmas right now!

the 2332 black GG1 refurbish was an illumination of what’s inside mine! I have  a Black 2332, a 2340, and a 2360 shelving their inner souls! So, that being expressed I want to thank you for that refurb video you posted. I have always been a bit intimidated to open them and maybe hear Boing! Stuff scattering about! Lol. So many parts! My  steamers have been no stress fun but the GG a whole N’other thing! but really you have given me some hope. Certainly more game to set it all out methodically and just go for it. Thanks buddy, I appreciate you.

btw, that single motor 2332 when the entire mechanism is done right walks away with the congressional cars! Holy smokes man! Got my attention.

Great job on the 68 rebuild.  I did the same thing about 4 months ago and couldn't find anything on it.  Thanks for sharing!

@Leroof: So glad you liked that clip. Gave me a BIG Smile reading your comment.
Thank You, Sir!

I’ve got like 4+ GG1’s to get ran through the Service Yard here, at some point. Gonna be nice to have some of them all lashed up together pulling heavy loads.

@texgeekboy: Thank You Sir for your compliment!
I don’t know what’s out there & what's not, but I do my best to document & share each engine/s & car/s as I prepare them to be “Rail Ready” for My Layout.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Do You Want good solid Track Connections for your Power Feeders or Block Powered Sections across Your Layout?

Here’s a 2 min 40 sec Tutorial on how simple it is to solder your Power Wires to your Tinplate Track. Having good solid connections is key, for All wiring aspects of Your Railroad!

One thing I’d like to add:
If the three strips of solder are not enough, use it/ them to get the wire/s secure- then add more solder off the roll as needed. Be sure to hold your wire down when adding more solder, so it stays in place where you want it to & doesn’t move on you.

Hope this brief clip helps some of you w/ your layout wiring!

Have a great evening, Y’all!

~Eli

(I have had numerous criticism of this clip, saying “the joints are poor quality”, “cold joints that are sure to fail”, & some folks “shuddering at the lack of flux paste used”. Let me assure Any & All of those that this particular solder joint is/ was heated up properly, & is in no way a “cold & or poor joint”. And by the chance that You happen to think otherwise, I will give you my address & you can come test them across the entire layout for Yourself… Any Takers?!?!?
If You’ve followed along at all, this ain’t My First Rodeo! And if you were to yank/ jerk/ pull/ & or grab at any of these power feeder wires solder joints- the wire would break off the strand long before the joint ever broke.
This is Toy Trains Y’all, NOT soldering per specs from NASA on the Space Shuttle…..)

Latest Rebuild from the Service Yard of FRV.

The Service Yard of FRV is rolling’em out.

The Service Yard of FRV
has just rolled out a few FM’s
like they’re Factory Fresh.

"Do You Want good solid Track Connections for your Power Feeders or Block Powered Sections across Your Layout?"  I read your post and it's too bad that someone hurt your feelings.  Me? I am going to watch your video to learn from you!

Love and learned from this series Eli.

Thanks for all you share

I’m  loving this thread as well!  I plan on refurbishing a number of my childhood postwar trains when I get some more free time next year after I retire. Fortunately, Eli has already featured a number of them in his videos within this thread, so I am looking forward to following his process.  Keep ‘em coming, Eli.  Can’t wait until you get to those US Marines/Army missile engines, showing us how you replace that sponge and get those missiles firing again as well as the usual deep clean!

Thanks for the compliments  
- Everyone!! 😊

Picto Series of stripping down Lionel’s Postwar 6425 3-Dome Gulf Tanker from 1956 for a deep cleaning.
Notice the bent handrail & the rusty wheel.
All tools used to perform this project are as shown, minus dawn dish soap, a paint brush & a different toothbrush & warm water, & my favorite little mini vise used to straighten out the handrail (& of course oil at the very end for lubricant).  
All I used to clean the handrail was the scotchbrite pad. Also, only one ladder needs to be removed for complete disassembly  

Now that there’s Fresh Oil pumping out deep from the bellows of FRV, we’ve gotta have somewhere to put it for transport. This is the first tanker car of my original set of ten.

One down… Nine to go!
(& that’s not including the 30+ I acquired all together a few months ago. lololol)

Rich Melvin or Alan Arnold should give Eli a monthly column in the OGR magazine for this in the spirit of Barrett in the back shop.

What's the liquid in the dish you are using for cleaning? Beautiful looking car after you've done your magic.

Great work Eli. Thanks for documenting your repairs and rebuilds too.

Bob

@Strap Hanger: I’ve no idea who those Gentlemen are, but I’d be Thrilled to have such an Amazing Opportunity. Lord knows I’ve no shortage of things to share w/ the masses…
And Thank You so much for your kind compliment, Sir! 🙏🏻

@Scotie: the liquid is Mineral Spirits. It works wonders for all things - except painted engine shells & car bodies.
And Thank You Sir!

@RSJB18: Bob, really appreciate your compliments, always Sir. Thank You very much!!

Details on the Detailing of the Ninth n’ Tenth Tanker Car.

These Ten Tanker Cars have waited patiently well over a decade for their opportunity to Ride the Rails of FRV.
As w/ any engine/ rolling stock/ etc, not a single thing hits the track till they’ve been thoroughly gone through & made as new as possible.
It’s a lovely site to see the crud knocked off the wheels & everything dust free gliding down the tracks. It’s been a long time I’ve waited to tackle this project, & couldn’t be happier seeing them finally on the layout.

Hope Everyone enjoys the clip,
& Thanks for Watching!

On to the next project…

Latest Rebuild from the Service Yard of FRV. Hope Y’all enjoy the clip!

Great work!  On the tanker cars, are those decals?  Did you replace them?  I am curious about how they went from the discolored rectangles to a clean look.  Thanks!

@jjm: Yes they’re decals, of the all original variety. Each car is all original & nothing was replaced. The shells cleaning/ detailing process involved nothing more than dawn dish soap & warm water, along w/ a toothbrush & a chip brush. All the frames & truck assemblies were cleaned/ detailed using mineral spirits w/ a toothbrush, stainless wire brush, & a beat up scotchbrite pad.
Tons of detailed pics n’ clips of full cleaning/ detailing processes on my channel…    
And Thank You, Sir!

Howdy Train Folk!
I've rebuilt tons of things since I posted the 726 ^^above. Though only uploaded a few to the tube. In order w/ what’s posted of the rebuilds on my channel, here’s the first of several…  
Hope Y’all enjoy!

Here’s some FM’s for Your Rebuilding Pleasure…    
Over an hour long, but lotsa great stuff to be seen in this clip.

I have a pristine all original 2354 ABA, of which some months ago turned the rear 2354T unit into a 2354P. I used the nice shell & put it on a second (decent) 2354P motor & truck frame I had laying around. So now I’ve got a Dual Powered 2354 ABBA for the rails. After that project was done, I took the (decent, not the one to the set)) B Unit & customized it to house an operating Horn. This little project has been on the back burner, as I still need to finish fashioning the horn holder. It’ll be a fun train when done.

As I’ve stated before, not every rebuild gets posted on the youtube channel. I share most all of my stuff on my facebook page, & some on instagram. So if you’re interested in the daily ins & outs of FRV, that’s a great place to see what goes on here weekly.
Here we have my first F3 ever, The Texas Special AB. After many many years of just sitting there, they finally made their way into The Service Yard. Along w/ the original AB Units, I custom built a rear 2245P from a random decent shell & a complete all original 2333 motor & truck frame. Creating an all powerful Dual Engine ABA Texas Special.
Hope Y’all enjoy the views!

There again, not everything gets an actual rebuild clip of its own.  
In keeping w/ The Texas Special theme, I decided to get out these 210 AA’s & 211 AA’s, both all original. I rebuilt these so quickly I didn’t even take the time to document hardly a thing.
I am proud to present to Y’all this beautiful Dual Engine Powered Texas Special AAAA Lashup.

Thanks to those that watch & care… Enjoy!

While not a rebuild, here’s a little something to show my appreciation to all those that follow & enjoy the trains & layout of FRV.              

The Dual (4) Engine Powered 2343 Super Chief AABAA…

I’ve had this lone 204P for almost a couple decades sitting around. Came across this beautiful matched 204 AA Set from the massive collection late last summer. Decided to lash them up together, creating this stunning Dual Engine Powered 204 AAA Set.
… Whatcha think?

Another fun rebuild/ restoration the past couple months. Prewar Lionel’s Z 250 Watt Transformer. My postwar Z had some crumbling bakelite on the lower base, causing trouble w/ the #1 throttle. So I stripped this other Prewar Z down & rebuilt it w/ a new cord. It’s since been installed where the other lived on my 6’ long Control Panel, & is working like a champ for some of the accessories on the layout.

And now we’re back to a fully documented breakdown & rebuild.
I have no words to share w/ y'all about this clip, so I’ll let the video speak for itself.
Would love to hear what Y’all think…

For folks interested in such & looking for info on this site of said topic, I will include the title to the clip in hopes it’s helpful to whomever:
Complete Breakdown & Rebuild of Postwar Lionel’s 2169WS Freight Set: Featuring the 773 & 2426W

And here’s the latest that’s just days old.
Hope Y’all enjoy these recently posted rebuilds of FRV… Thanks for looking!

If you’re interested in more, please check out my fb page or ig. Cheers Y’all! 🍻

The Latest Rebuild from The Service Yard of FRV…

A project I’ve waited years to finally get to.
Breaking down & rebuilding these Postwar Lionel 2500 Silver Series Passenger Cars was very rewarding!

Hope Y’all enjoy the view!

Thanks Eli, that was helpful.

Howdy Train Folk!
Many folks over the years are always asking what this funky white stuff is & how to go about cleaning it off.
If you’ve asked this question before yourself, & or have already gone about the process of removing it- you’d know that the answer to the preferred method of removal is to use a Heat Gun/ Hair Dryer. Using that particular method can be quite tricky, as well as create problems that you didn’t have before.
I get asked how I go about it all the time, which my reply is always “I plan on creating a post specifically to share just what I do”. Well Folks, Today is THE Day…

Just after these pics were taken I created a short five minute clip of my process of the “Mold Release” Removal. It’s viewable on my channel & in the following post. I hope it’s of help to those that might be in need.

From Eli here at FRV…
Happy Railroading, Y’all!!!

Here’s the short five minute clip of the simple & easy “Mold Release” Removal Technique.
And just to add: YES, it IS safe for the lettering & pin stripes (if done properly & quickly).

Y’all have a great Sunday!

Thanks!  How does the lettering hold up to this method?

I watched your video.... Great job and thank you for posting this!!!!!

These repair tips are super helpful! thank you!!

What a great series.

Thanks,

John

@jjm : The lettering came out perfect. The key is to be quick & soft when using this particular method. There was absolutely zero damage done to any aspect of the shell.

Howdy Train Folk!

While in between work & daily life, I’ve been rebuilding this Postwar Lionel 182 Magnetic Crane. Since I’ve been working on it here n’ there when I’m able, I have not taken the liberty to create an actual video of its entire process. And for that, I do hereby apologize to Y’all!
The following are somewhat detailed pics of stripping it completely down. I added new wires throughout (except the controller just yet), & have since cleaned n’ detailed each n’ every part. In the continuing posts, I’ll share the few clips I did happen to take, as well as a “How To” repair of the broken screw/ bolt posts on the interior of the cab.
If’n anyone has any questions whatsoever (on this or any post/ topic of mine), I’d be more than happy to be of help to those in need.

As always, Thanks for looking… Hope Y’all have a Great Weekend!

First things First: a simple Motor Test prior to disassembly.

After rewiring & rebuilding the Coil Pack, here’s a simple test to make sure it’s all in working order prior to full reassembly.

The following pics are my take on a simple n’ easy “How To” repair of the broken screw/ bolt posts on the interior of this 182 Crane Cab. I used small coffee straws/ stir sticks as the forms for the repair “mold”. Afterwards took small cut round toothpicks to use as filler for the screw/ bolt holes (which are smaller in diameter than the bolts themselves). I used vaseline to coat the toothpicks, which keeps the epoxy from adhering to during the pour/ cure. One thing not shown is the placing of blue painters tape to secure the straw sections. Just prior to its drying/ curing, I removed the toothpicks & straws. After it sits a day, each hole will be ready to be tapped out & rethreaded to create these three whole new screw/ bolt post. They came out perfectly… & since these aren’t even seen, I feel no need to paint them.

Happy Railroading Everybody!!

Testing the Controller to this here Postwar Lionel 182 Magnetic Crane w/ its existing wires it came with to the all five new ones coming from the upper end. The voltage is set @ 13.34V. Everything seems as it should. Now to install new wires from the controller on the control panel to its place on the layout… What a Fun Toy!

If you’ve never soldered & or shied away from it thinking it might be outta your wheelhouse, then this clip may be helpful to You.
Shown here is the simple removal of old wiring (on a 182 Magnetic Crane Controller), in preparation for it’s new wires to be attached.
If you’re into servicing your own trains up to a certain point, yet send them out for such repairs, please know that it is a simple & easy task to perform. One which will bring you much gratification upon project completion. And definitely a simple n’ easy enough task to do Yourself, as opposed to sending it off to a “so called” professional!

At the end is a Timelapse of the rest of the contacts.
For those that may find this helpful, I will indeed share a brief clip of the other half of the process (soldering the new wires to each contact).

@Flint Rock Valley posted:

I’ve had this lone 204P for almost a couple decades sitting around. Came across this beautiful matched 204 AA Set from the massive collection late last summer. Decided to lash them up together, creating this stunning Dual Engine Powered 204 AAA Set.
… Whatcha think?

@Flint Rock Valley: You are quite the Lionel Postwar repair expert and you do fine work. It’s too bad you don’t have an FB unit to go with these, rather than three FAs. An ABA set would look terrific, even though the Santa Fe never operated ALCO Fs, only Ps. But, they still look good. 👍