Power issues

First of all, how big is the layout? what trains are you running? How many feeder wires do you have? and what guage is the wire?

I am an electrician so I guess I should know the answer. I am running legacy trains on a layout that has about 100 feet of track. The wire is 16 gauge. I have many connections to the track throughout the layout. If I put an amprobe on the transformer +, I am close to 10 amps. I have two long passenger trains with lighted cars. If I take 4 passenger lighted cars off the track the amps drops to about 7. I don't need to increase my wattage by much. I am able to run 4 diesel engines at the same time, no problem. I should be able to parallel two transformers of the same voltage to increase my wattage.

Replace the bulbs in the passenger cars with LEDs and call it a day.

Seems to me it would be easier to increase track power

Martys suggestion is a good one  not as easy as adding power, but more power going through the rails raises the risk of damaging the sensative electronics of modern stuff.

 

If you insist on adding more power I believe Lionel recommends either running two 180s in parallel or two 135s in parallel and running them through a TPC unit to the track.

 

I've run 2 180's through a TPC unit, its a ton of power that can leave spotweld marks on wheels and rails during derailments at 18v. I think many folks prefer two 135's with the lower amperage, but your the electrician

 

 

If you want to parallel transformers, they need to be equal voltage and equal amperage.

My choice is to convert passenger cars to LED lighting, all my cars are getting the treatment.

2 bricks in parallel in phase can put out 20 amps to the track. that is a bit much IMO. A big spark may occur in short circuits. Agree with John,I would convert passenger cars to LED lighting instead.

 

Dale H

I have two mainlines and a yard. They each have their own 180 brick. Can you divide your layout into multiple power zones?

 I don't know if this will work for you. My layout got divided into blocks so I didn't raise the available amps inside each block. Instead, there's more available spread out over the layout. I went to two 180s Lionel bricks into four blocks. Usually the train's length can help move stuff out of one block and into the next so nothing ever trips.

So how do I create a block? Do I remove the track pins where I want the one block to end and the next to start? As long as both passenger trains are not running in the same block at the same time, there should be no power issues. Right?

Here is a picture of two PH 135's in parallel. Lionel supplies a connector piece that accomplishes this. (6-14194)   Once at the 270 watt level. I will admit that de-rails are an arc and spark adventure.  I eventually took the 270 watts of power  controlled by the TPC's and made (8) blocks, note the (8) fuses.  The (8) blocks are controlled by the (2) BPC's pictured. With the two TPC's I have the ability to choose which TPC is controlling any of the (8) blocks.
Notice the (6-14194) adaptor part bottom of the Right TPC (Silver box)

Two Block Power Controllers. (BPC) The Blocks can be turned off/on to either of the (2) TPC's pictured using in my case the Cab-1 controller.  Older IC controls  BPC's.

(8) 7.5 amp track fuses. One for each block.

Single line diagrams
Original

Advanced

 Depending on the track system you just use plastic pins instead of metal ones or you can cut a gap with a Dremel tool. The problem is that all the cars and engines with 2 pickup rollers will connected adjacent blocks when they roll over it. This connects the 2 blocks and the transformers are placed in parallel via the 22 gauge wire connecting the rollers. This can be avoided with a relay system if there is enough room for a transition block. However it is a lot easier converting the passenger cars to LEDs.

 

Dale H

While it's true that the transition can connect the blocks together, if they're being fed identical voltages, the current through the pickups for the brief time it's in the transition is minimal as there is no large voltage differential.  Our modular club layout has four 180 W bricks powering blocks, and we haven't toasted any wires yet.

 

You still have 20 amps potential. A short anywhere would produce a sizable arc. In that event 10 amps of the 20 total go through a 22 gauge wire. On your club layout if all the planets line up correctly,3 trains could bridge 4 bricks with 40 amp potential to the track. 40 amps at 18 volts is 720 watts. Could weld steel with that maybe.

 

Dale H

I hooked up another 180 brick today and it works fine. I had a few derailments and the spark was nothing to be concerned about. I have both bricks hooked up in parallel. I can run all 5 trains at the same time and I have no power issues. Thanks to everyone for your input. 

It only takes once to get a good connection and cook those wires!  I've received several locomotives and passenger cars where the wiring was melted from a derailment.