Skip to main content

In order for the M10005 to run for the long hours the museum will be open, I have modified it to a twin can motor RMT BEEP chassis. All the side detail is ground off the frame sides. The frame is then shortened on each end. I lined up the factory hole in the front with the stiffener on the chassis, then drilled the chassis and added the screws. One the back, I drilled holes through the shell and chassis, again at the stiffener. it sites about 1/8 higher than thew cars. This allowed me to retain the reverse lock switch without cutting the shell. Simple enough to put the original one way motor back when the show is over.

Steve

m10005-1m10005-2m10005-3m10005-4m10005-5

Attachments

Images (5)
  • m10005-1
  • m10005-2
  • m10005-3
  • m10005-4
  • m10005-5
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

One the back, I drilled holes through the shell and chassis, again at the stiffener. it sites about 1/8 higher than thew cars. This allowed me to retain the reverse lock switch without cutting the shell. Simple enough to put the original one way motor back when the show is over.

Steve

Good luck with removing those holes in the shell, after the show is over.

I have modified a couple of M10005s by replacing the motor with one from a Marx 1666 steam engine, which doesn't have the "fat wheel" problem. It is a drop-in replacement after removing the side rods from the 1666 motor. The modified M10005 runs great pulling 6 cars, although noisily. With the sliding pickup shoe it probably wouldn't hold up for continuous running. 

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×