Running accessories on track power

On a large layout it is a big job wiring accessories to a fixed power supply. Since I run conventional at 11-12 V its easy to take accessory power from the tracks.  As for lighting I keep it on a separate DC circuit as LEDs are used and it can be put on or off for night and day.

For my O27 track, I have lighted bumpers, so I know track power is on. My accessories are all wired directly to the transformer though. I want to be able to pull my train into the station and have it stop without the station shutting down for the night ... how will all those passengers be able to disembark safely in the dark?

I do not know anyone who does this.  Most people I know do it the right way.  Any power taken from the track is power that the locomotive may need.

I prefer to run my accessories from fixed voltage power supplies.  That way I can adjust the voltage to each accessory for best performance.

Pete

hi, you can try atlas #205 connectors, after connecting the transformer, it will run 4 accessories, good luck................

Nope, never. I always run accessories via separate, variable voltage power. That's model train gospel for me.

I guess I don't understand the reason for doing so.  One extra wire of a different color run as a bus line around the layout will provide accessory power as needed.  As an aside it also helps me remember to turn things off.  Accessory lights remain on when the track power is off so I remember to flip the switch on the transformer.  A failsafe I find necessary.

I use common ground wiring scheme which allows my accessories to operate independently of the track. I wouldn't recommend otherwise.

When I had my last layout I ran accessories off a transformer at an appropriate voltage. Running off the track is problematic, besides the potential draw of an accessory (thought most draw relatively little) taking away from the engine on the track, it also means the accessory may not be running at its optimal voltage, unless you are running command control at fixed 16-18v (and that could be a problem with an accessory that runs better at lower voltage, or bulbs on the accessory burn out faster at that voltage). By using separate power sources for accessories it allows you to put them on the optimal power. The wiring is no big deal, and you potentially can have busses at different voltages and wire to the one that fits the accessory.

 I always run accessories such as crossing gates / gateman on fixed voltage separate from the track power. I make insulated track sections to activate them, and the operation is very reliable. 

John

Multiple power supplies wired in parallel for track power, lights and accessories. Various accessories have different voltage requirements.

Crossing signals and track signals have their own dedicated power supply. Blinking light accessories have their own power supply.

Street lights and building lights each have their own power supply. Track switched on their own power supply.  As others have mentioned on a large layout this is the only way to do it right.

If you look at the Lionel and MTH track activation devices they both have provisions for attaching them right to the track. All my block signals run this way and they use such little power that engine operation if not affected, The structure lighting ( all LED) is fed a separate DC circuit using AC/DC converters and an old 90W transformer. This way the buildings can light up separately from the track circuit and day and night scenes can be created. Is it better to have all accessories on a separate circuit? Most likely, but my scheme works.

My modular club started with the original Tinplate Tracker wiring specification where one of the 4 buss wires was accessory power.  We evolved away from that because accessory failures (shorts, etc.) and overloading the accessory buss was not uncommon, and we disconnected the accessory power and now have a policy that no accessories are connected to the track.  We grew weary of hunting down shorts during setup and operation only to find an accessory connected to track power was at fault.  Isolation works.  I use IR detectors for accessory activation and collection of 103x and brick transformers to trim the voltage for best accessory operation and lighting brightness.

What is fine for fixed and modular layout wiring is not practical for the Carpet, Tinsel Mountain & Northern RR setup.  For these layouts, the track serves as the power buss and connecting to it eliminates a considerable PITA delivering power to the accessories.  Given a constant voltage input to both trains and accessories, the Lionel plug and play Fastrack and accessories plugging into the track is perfect for seasonal layouts. 

  The logic isn't flawed, if you are willing to live with the possible drawbacks. ...Cant think 0-27 ? .

Track powered accessories and bulbs are cheaper than a cooked board from some errant over voltage unnoticed. Lights being too bright, out, flickering, blackened, etc. a visual warning for sure.

   You guys have been away from carpet centrals and conventional for too long; spoiled 

   Some lighting brightness varience can be minimally important, e.g. ceiling layout, 5 blocks on a Z & #1 on a KW, lots of hands free operation leaves everything pretty steady too, I use two lighted bridge houses, a yard light, and single street lamp (out of a row on constant power) is wired to the track. It's light change being less noticable caught in the brighter light of an operating luggage station whose light is on constant power too, while the ground switched station motor is on track power. That's what neutral, and on/off switches are for; go to nuetral, turn on the accessory and adjust power   

  Another layout has an open air depot who's light being on (a constant on) means it's siding will get (varible) track power.  ..."Open for buisness"   It also has a tiny, dim, bumper bulb on the mains variable power.    The next line has a lighted bumper as well. Another line, an el, has a single overhead lamp under an el trestle over another line. Again, near brighter lights so it is not as noticeable; and below where you look as youd adjust, and under a rail line if the train is overhead it looks like the train vibrations are causing a dim light to flicker on fully

  A tiny 24v grain of wheat porch light used is for the final line. It's filiment glows (not "lit") at 5v and the 1033 maxs at 15v 

  My Christmas table uses L.e.d.s, diodes, and 6 toggles for 1.5v steps of d.c. to 12v as the trottle(s). BUT it is hidden.   There is also a ring of red 1.5v Chistmas bulbs, 2 groups of 5 in series, circling the track, powered by the track that lets you know if power is applied.