Which foam is better to screw in?

You would do better with glue, foam as 0 holding power with screws especially with small screws

 

Clem k

Thank, so just dip the screws in the glue?

is there a better way to attach the track to the foam to keep it anchored?

I used all the available colors of foam.  Blue, Green, Pink and White.  The pink stuff seemed a little better for holding the screw in place.  I used drywall type trim screws.  These worked well with FasTrack and so far I found them in two lengths.  The shortel screw is about two inches long and the head fits into the countersunk screw hole.  The screws will hold the track in place and keep it from shifting or coming apart.   

Could use a pan head machine screw through the ties and anchor it on the other side of the foam with a large fender washer with the nut.

Use a broad or thick thread drywall screw, thicker and wider the better. Need that to dig into the foam. Not a wood screw.

There been a number of posts asking about the use of foam as a substitute for homosote when using O gauge track w/ roadbed (Fasttrack & Realtrax).  Since the smaller scales normally use diluted glue/ballest with the cork/foam rubber roadbed to semi-permanently affix track, it is an option in "O" even with a roadbed, but could be a sloppy pain dependent on the amount of design flex/upkeep/setup/teardown work one wants.

 

Could you use strategically placed velcro tape on the foam and track underside, since screws into foam are likely to keep things in place until a good bump or tug?  Velcro tape might adhere well to the foam and plastic track roadbed.  Vecro is easily found in varying widths/lengths/strengths and is rather inexpensive and would provide the ability to adjust the current and future layout design and does not mess up the track bed like glue.  The velcro might also act to adhere and float the layout on the foam and possibly keep track noise down by not transmitting it in/through the foam or to a plywood sub-sub-base.

You could hold the track down with wire ties/zip ties/tie wraps into through holes in the foam.

I was trying to avoid screwing into the wood in an effort to reduce noise but that sounds like it may not work

I have heard about Roy's method, but have never tried it

I don't believe a 1/2 screw would be sufficent, as I remember from a recent installation 1/2" only extends about 1/8" out of the bottom of the fastrack. I believe I found #4, 1" screws at Ace. I don't believe the thread would be wide enough to get a substantial bite on any type of foam though and you'd probably have to add some glue to the thread and let it cure before putting any type of stress on the track.

Unfortunately #6 screws do not move freely through Fastrack. If you were to use them you may still want to use glue. But I would also suggest predrilling the holes and hand screwing them to the point they are fully seated.

But Chris, what kind of fool am I to to presume you wouldn't know most of this.

On a flat surface with the Fastrak locked together the screws will just be holding the trackwork in place. Should be fine as the foam won't let them move much horizontally, have not had issues here if no one messes with it. Kinda like stick pins.

Thanks Matt will look for the #4's today. Thanks for the info

Clem is spot-on. I wouldn't even bother trying to get screws to hold. Use a bead of Liquid Nails. There's a protective film on the foam board that you'll want to peel off first.

 

Gilly

I built a Christmas layout using the blue foam and tubular track.  I used nails dipped in glue to secure the track to the foam.  I used that layout for 7 or 8 years.  Be careful running cords under the foam.  I had some lighted buildings and those cords and the cords for the tree lights were under the foam which was directly on the floor.  I didn't have a fire, but the cords got hot enough to melt a deep groove into the foam.

 

Jeff Davis

Can't believe there are no comments on the title of this thread

 

 

I agree with Jmiller about the pink Styrofoam, but the holding strength for a screw in this material is not what I would rely on.

 

Think of the children!

I thought about it, though.

 

I've found both to be equally good to screw in.   That being said, I had a local shop that had a layout up on pink foam and they used liquid nails on every 3rd or 4th track section and had no problems.  

 

--Greg  

I was gonna ask if we were talking about a mattress, but thought I better read the

other comments first.  (upon seeing the title, my thought was, "Say what?")

Ditto.

 

Jerry

 

I was going to post something as obviously the thread was written to get such remarks...

 

But I chose to leave my inner child locked up!!

When I first saw the title, I thought "Tempurpedic".

well I had to have some fun while asking a mundane question

 

But the question is legit, thin I am going to use the screw and glue combine with a few wire ties . the layout needs to be able to be moved and stood up on end to get into place

 

 

But seriously.... I use hot glue and it works very well!  Plus, it peels right off if you want to reposition the track.

Can't believe there are no comments on the title of this thread

I was thinking memory foam as soon as I saw the thread.

Scott Smith

Showed this thread title to my wife she said say somthing !! i said they will think my mind is in the gutter. so im glad good minds think alike...conrail john

You cannot screw into foam, a complete waste of time.

Fred

I used 1&1/4" #4's on my layout. I screwed them down until lightly snug and then backed them off a turn or so. This prevents "bowing" the track/roadbed, and reduces the noise transfered through the screws.

 

I'm quite pleased with the noise reduction of the pink foam. IMO, the difference versus having the track directly on the wood is HUGE.  

 

 

About a month ago I mentioned a technique for fixing Fastrack to foam that can be used for any type of track system.  Screws will eventually pull out based on the force of the train, particularly on curves where the engine force is tangent to the curve.  This is the technique:  Buy some cheap plastic expansion sleeves at your hardware store.  These are the ones that are often inserted into drywall and expand as the screw is tightened.  Drill a hole into the ties of the track into the foam and then remove the track.  Make the hole that goes into the foam the same diameter as the expansion sleeve.  Squeeze some glue or caulk that is compatible with the foam you are using into the hole and insert the sleeve.  Put the track back on so that the hole in the tie is above the expansion sleeve.  Insert a screw and tighten.  As the screw goes down, it will expand the sleeve and press the glue or caulk along the sides into the foam.  Once dry, this combination will be more stable than just a screw alone.    

My experience, foam will NOT hold screws.   No way no how!   

 

I suggest using a construction adhesive that does not melt plastic/foam.   I built some liftouts that way and the glues has held for over 15 years.

Chris,

I know that you have more experience than most building layouts . Surely, you knew the answer before hand ? Anyway, most construction caulks will do the job. If allowed to cure you might find that you may not need the plywood.

 

Over the years this topic was discussed in depth in threads about holiday layout construction .

 

God Bless,

"Pappy" 

About 8 years ago i built modules using unsupported 2" foam in L girder frames. I used yellow carpenters glue under the cork and gargraves track screws were used only at the ends. these were transported twice a year to my chapters train show. when not at the shows they are set up at our station and used every weekend in the summer on public display. There have been no issues with track coming loose. the curves are O72,O80 & O88 We run long and heavy trains 

Are you doing the same window you did last year?
I thought your Window Treatment last Christmas looked Great!
Be sure and post your progress!!
The first thought I had when I saw this post was…it depends on whether you’re working from the Top, or, from the Bottom…

K.C.

Depends on what you are attaching through the foam.  I have 6" X #10 screws  on my work bench.   We were upgrading some problem Fort Pitt modules built with foam.  The screws mentioned fixed the problems.
Foam is used to create the second level.  We needed to attach a piece of 1/4 plywood to the bottom to protect a lot of wiring that was seeing wear and tear during transportation.  Also used 1 1/4" X 1/4" fender washers on the foam side of the sandwich. We could of used a construction adhesive, but wanted the wiring to be accessible/which required the plywood to be removable. 

This module also has a lot of foam board about 3".  Liquid nail construction adhesive seems to work well.   Both modules pictured are transported in boxes for additional support and protection.
One of the more challenging work projects.
Screws used.  We also used these screws to repair fascia board that has split.

I've seen roofing contractors use longer screws when applying multiple sheets of  isocyanurate board for insulation.

My girlfriend seems to think this is the best

Same window as last year. The only problem I had last year was the fast track would come undone or shift, I can't screw into her floor, so I had to build a base.

since this is going to be a temporary layout built on foam, I would use silicone or latex caulk depending on what type of track you are using. Layout your track as you intend to use it, then trace along the outside of the track. Remove the track and lay a thick bead of caulk down the center of the two lines you've just drawn and then place the track back in position and let the caulk set up over night. When you tear down the layout, the caulk should peel off the track.

Do the wire ties, cable ties that 3" long. Small head.   One from the top in the screw bevel and another on the bottom as the locker.

 

You don't need to do every track or hole.  Not a lot of drilling, easy install and removal.

 

Screws won't hold in foam.