How do You Wire your Layout?

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December 26, 2013 9:20 AM

The layout my young sons and I are building is 33 x 15. Double main, a small yard, a separate El line and maybe a mountain line once complete. Using Atlas O track and switches. I'm guessing many people have a similar mid-size layout and use both DCS and Legacy - and don't strictly adhere to MTH's philosophy of star pattern with one power drop per track block. What wiring set-up do you find to work well for a DCS and Legacy set-up?
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 10:23 AM

There are differences of opinion on this but it would seem that the star wiring will give you the best in balanced power as well as being able to localize and troubleshoot power losses or other problems. A single T.I.U. would be sufficient for a layout of this size.

Legacy/TMCC works well with most wiring systems.

 

 

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Last edited by c.sam December 26, 2013 10:25 AM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 10:35 AM

Do you have a power supply yet? I agree with c.sam.

 

You can even  use the same power supply on different tiu channels to increase the track  signal range.

 

 

 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 10:49 AM

What c.sam said! And FWIW, I am not all that experienced, but from what I have read here DCS seems to be the most fiddly as far as wiring. Although many have reported good results with many different wiring methods, many others have reported problems.

 

With that in mind, I will be building a layout soon and plan on following the DCS recommended wiring methods using star pattern and blocks with one power drop per block. Will be using separate power supplies for turnouts and accessories. I'm using Atlas track & turnouts too, have a DCS system and Legacy is on order (will have it if they ever ship). 

 

I'm starting out a bit smaller than you, probably about 6x16 or 8x18, but planning to keep adding on as budget permits. Also want to do the wiring so it can be easily added on to.

 

To add a little more: Have purchased & will be using OGR's #14 & #16 wire from their online store for all my track power.

 
Last edited by rtr12 December 26, 2013 12:22 PM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 10:59 AM

My layout has Star wiring for DCS based on Barry Boskowitz's DCS Ogage Companion. Track length is in excess of 300 feet, and the DCS signal strength is 10 in all locations including single end sidings.

 

Power wire feeds are all twisted pairs of AWG 16. All connections are sodered or screw terminals with the wire ends tinned because these are more reliable than speed nuts and clinch type connectors.

 

Avoid bundling power feed wires with wires connected to solenoids and signal devices. Keep the routing neat, and label the ends of all wires with masking tape.

 

Bobby Ogage

TCA 04-57239

Last edited by Bobby Ogage December 26, 2013 11:04 AM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 11:11 AM

I have a 28 by 16 space with basically a U shape layout within that of about 335 sq feet of benchtop 285+ feet of Atlas track in three loops and 158 feet of "Streets - about the same as yours, I expect.

 

I solder all three rails at every joint between track sections of the Atlas and run feeds to both outer and the center rail every eight to ten feet.  I use #12 wire except for runs of over 25 feet where I use #10 and #8.  This is overkill in the extreme: on the other hand I have flawless voltage throughout with no voltage drop anywhere, even when running at 10 amps: Copper is cheap compared to the time required to diagnose and fix problems if and when they occur.

 

I solder a #24 copper wire along the underside of each of the three rails of all the "Streets, soldering to each piece.  I feed it every six feet since the rails have less mass to conduct electricity, using #16 feed wire.

 

I don't use DCS or Legacy - mostly because I am a convention-running traditionalist but also because as an electrical engineer I long ago became convinced "carrier" systems that use the same conductor path for both transmission of power and digital control signals just aren't worth all the fiddling, fuss, and problems that develop over time, etc.  

 

Licensed professional engineer: TX41077

TCA member 12-67322

Certifiable model train nut

 

"If no one as ever done it that way, it might be fun to try."

 
 
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December 26, 2013 11:15 AM

I run 12 gauge wire to the tiu and to the 24 terminal port.

Then form that I star wire with 14 gauge wire that I bought in the store here.

I run about 2-3 inches of speaker wire for my drop feeders,solder them to the 14 gauge wire.

I have found if you use Scaletrax I have to solder 90+% of my track.

My layout is a good size.

Hope this helps.

 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 11:32 AM

OK, I am not the perfect wiring guru.

I had a 11 foot by 23 foot Figure 8 with wyes across the middle and 5 dead end sidings.

I ran DCS and TMCC on the layout. DCS used 2 channels fed by 2 100 Watt bricks.

I had all the sidings isolated and fed from a connector block through toggle switches, but I rarely turned them off.

I powered the main at both ends and had no blocks in it.

Did this cause DCS issues? Yes, 2 places roughly in the middle between the power drops had poor signal.

The trains ran through them anyway !!! If the whistle was blowing when they hit that area, it kept blowing until the y left the area.

Big Deal? NO.

 

So yes, DCS needs more attention to the wiring for perfect operation but it is not really that picky.

Also some Modular clubs have used DCS with BUSS wiring. Yes, it needs lots of Susan's Filters but it works, and those filters are CHEAP.

Have Blocks, One power drop per block with a filter at the connection and you will be fine.

/End Soapbox/

 

edited for spelling and format

 

Russell, Msgt, USAF, Ret. http://roguespace.com/Trainpg.html

Maine 3 Railers

Last edited by Russell December 26, 2013 11:34 AM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 11:33 AM

Originally Posted by PJB:
What wiring set-up do you find to work well for a DCS and Legacy set-up?

My large Run Room is set up for DCS and Lionel's TMCC.  Buss Wiring is my preference.  Filters are used to enhance DCS signal from my earlier TIUs.  Wire taps are soldered to track screwed to surface.  Connect a tap to every third section of track so that all track is touching one wired section.

 

Susan's Run Room http://www.slsprr.net/

 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:08 PM

Bob Ogage and everyone else who says they star pattern wire exactly per Barry's book - I'm no electrician so can you be more specific? First, MTH and Barry both recommend only one power drop per track block and only one terminal block per TIU channel. Is this how you are actually wiring? If so, then you must have one control panel with each TIU chennel connected to one terminal block that is somewhere else under the layout? And the terminal block is sort of centrally located? Even if you confirm this, for those who have Atlas switches - myriad people say to ensure all three legs are powered. Without tinkering with the switch wiring itself, I don't see how you can have one and only one power drop in a given track block to satisfy DCS starpattern and yet have all three switch legs powered. I suppose the one power drop per block for DCS could power one switch leg and then the other two switch legs could have power drops that connect to an independent power source that doesn't run through terminal block and TIU? Peter
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:10 PM

Does anyone do buss wiring and find DCS is still reliable?
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:25 PM

I know one person who did it that way and seems to be OK. Maybe he will post.

 

In my case, I followed the star-wiring, as follows . . .

My layout occupies about 80% of a 33-ft x 38-ft room. It has 900-ft of Atlas track, 45 Atlas plus 12 Ross turnouts. I have two DCS TIU’s with five AIU’s, and a Legacy base that is connected (one wire) to just one of the outside rails at one end of the layout. Two Z4000’s supply power to one of the TIU’s, and a ZW-L supplies power to the other TIU.

 

I have about 20 (haven’t counted after recent additions) ‘wall-warts’ (5vdc, 12vdc, 12vac, 14vac, 18vac) scattered throughout for powering accessories. These are plugged into remote control outlets, as are the three main transformers. I have a TW transformer dedicated to run the Subway train, which is conventional. The ’L’ train, on an independent loop, run with DCS and is programmed to make stops and announcements.

 

Because of the location of the stairwell, the control center is 120-ft from one set of a TIU with three AIU’s, and 60-ft from the other TIU with two AIU’s. Since the initial wiring, I have rerouted some of the wiring from the control center up the wall in a PVC pipe, across the suspended ceiling, and down another PVC pipe, which is behind a structural support post. This cut the 120-ft run to 70-ft.

 

From the transformers to the TIU’s I use 12AWG wire. Initially I used 12-2 wire left over from finishing the basement. Later, I switched to stranded 12AWG wire because even though a bit more expensive, it is much easier to route. Four of these pairs of wires are 60-ft and the other four pairs are 70-ft long

 

From the TIU’s to the distribution blocks I use 14-AVG stranded wire. These eight blocks, each of which supplies power to six track sections, started out as regular terminal strips. I then changed them to relays modules, which allow me to turn any of the track sections on/off with toggle switches on the main control panel. The four 14-AWG pairs from each TIU to the terminal blocks or relay modules range in length from 8-ft to 12-ft long.

 

From the terminal blocks or relay modules to the track sections I use 16-AWG stranded wire. I make the hot and common connections to each track section. These range in length from 6-ft to 12-ft long.

 

I have no problems with DCS, other than the familiar “Engine Not On Track” and similar messages when I try to run a locomotive that I have not run in a while, but this is easy to fix. Legacy runs perfectly, but I had to run a ground wire between the upper and lower levels for a stretch of eight feet. Interestingly, there are over 100 feet of two level tracks, including sections where there are six tracks over six tracks, and only the one short section required the ground wire.

 

If you have any specific questions, please feel free to email me.

 

Good luck!

Alex

 

 

 

 

 

Happy O-Gauge Railroading!

 

See My Layout Under Construction Here

OGR  forum member since 26 January 2008

Last edited by Ingeniero No1 December 26, 2013 12:28 PM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:30 PM

I read Susan Deat's post too - thanks Susan. Sounds like a good option but the problem is I am using 14 AWG stranded wire - not solid. Did this because I initially started wiring per MTH recommendations and planned to do star pattern. Not now going to rip it all out and re-wire with solid wire. And not going to tinker with every switch's wiring either so don't see how to reasonably wire per MTH recommendations. Was starting to wonder if each main having it's own buss that was wired to it's own TIU channel might be a reasonable compromise. Just looking for opinions on how you all do it for reliability before I go much father. Thanks.
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:35 PM

Alex - thanks. I might email you for more clarity. One thing - how are you maintaining one power drop per track block yet putting a power drop at each leg of each Atlas switch? Peter
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:39 PM

Was starting to wonder if each main having it's own buss that was wired to it's own TIU channel might be a reasonable compromise. Just looking for opinions on how you all do it for reliability before I go much father. Thanks.

 

 

I think it may be. I know that having tooo many short blocks is not a good thing and you're better off with one long one. What's the best length is the question... I'm guessing  anywhere from 30 to 40 feet, Trouble is... every layout is different.We have about 7 scale miles of track with 4 tiu in super.  We used Barry's wiring suggestions with a few exceptions...  Actually when dcs first came out our  first big layout was  buss wired and worked reasonably well.

 

One way to to find out.. hook up a loop.

 
Last edited by Gregg December 26, 2013 12:39 PM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:47 PM

We use Gargraves track and Ross Custom Switches. We wired it using the DCS preferred method "STAR" pattern, with each block being 10-12 sections of track, and 1 power drop per block. If you run multiple drops per block, you will get duplicate commands from your DCS remote, not always, but it will happen. (Meaning for example, with 2 power drops in a block, when you hit the soft key for a forward horn signal which is 2 quick blasts of the horn, it will do it twice, because the engine received the signal twice, one on each of the power drops)  

 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:52 PM

I think that the most important thing you can do is use separate power supplies for accessories, and separate power supplies for switch activation. Keep your track power JUST to power your engines.

I would recommend using blocks to isolate any electrical problem that may occur, if for no other reason. I use high quality toggles for this.

I also isolate switches and crossovers into separate blocks. Switches are notoriously unreliable and use of isolation as indicated above will allow you to rapidly isolate a switch problem.

I use solid #14 wire for track power, and with a carrier wire under each rail and for each block. My layout is large and this minimizes voltage drop. My accessories are wired with #16. Everything is tinned and soldered.

Use a power supply that is large enough! You can't have too much power. I would recommend buying in excess of what your immediate needs are. As your layout "grows" with more trains, bigger power, more track, lighted passenger trains, etc. You WILL need that extra power.

 

 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 12:57 PM

Laid off sick - yes but you haven't said whether you do power drops for all three switch legs and, if so how you do it and maintain the "one drop per block" recommendation.
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 1:01 PM

Hudson 5432 - ok, I was talking about the powering of the switches, not the controlling of them. So basically, if I want to power all three legs of each switch, two or all three legs get powered by an independent power source that doesn't run through the TIU. That's ok given we don't want to operate them thru an AIU at this point. And if one leg is powered by the one power drop running to terminal block going to TIU, then I could control via AIU. Is that the idea?
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 1:07 PM

By the way, if the theory behind "one drop per block" is so you don't have signal packages running into each other, how would a "filter" in a buss wire situation neutralize this? Thanks for your answer Susan.
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 1:08 PM

Originally Posted by PJB:
Laid off sick - yes but you haven't said whether you do power drops for all three switch legs and, if so how you do it and maintain the "one drop per block" recommendation.


Well for the most part Ross switches can be bought "Ross Ready" which means they are wired with "jumper wires" underneath the rails of each switch. That simply means that each switch is wired so that power is running through the entire switch with one feed on either of the 3 legs. We bought our switches and ran the jumpers ourselves to make them flow power all the way through. I'm sure you could do the same with the Atlas switches.

 

Those filters are used to "enhance" the DCS signal, not to stop multiple commands. Many people who use the newer TIU's with the most recent software edition, are not using filters. We have 2 TIU's, Rev L, and don NOT use filters or light bulbs for enhancing the DCS signal, and we still get a 7-10 signal throughout the layout.

 

I do have an older TIU, from several years ago that has never been upgraded, and I need the light bulb to get the 9-10 signal on my overhead loop in the bar/gameroom. 

 

 

 
Last edited by Laidoffsick December 26, 2013 1:14 PM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 1:11 PM

Originally Posted by PJB:
Bob Ogage and everyone else who says they star pattern wire exactly per Barry's book - I'm no electrician so can you be more specific? First, MTH and Barry both recommend only one power drop per track block and only one terminal block per TIU channel. Is this how you are actually wiring? If so, then you must have one control panel with each TIU chennel connected to one terminal block that is somewhere else under the layout? And the terminal block is sort of centrally located? Even if you confirm this, for those who have Atlas switches - myriad people say to ensure all three legs are powered. Without tinkering with the switch wiring itself, I don't see how you can have one and only one power drop in a given track block to satisfy DCS starpattern and yet have all three switch legs powered. I suppose the one power drop per block for DCS could power one switch leg and then the other two switch legs could have power drops that connect to an independent power source that doesn't run through terminal block and TIU? Peter

I haven't started building yet, but yes, I am planning on mounting MTH terminal blocks in central locations and then feeding track blocks from there. Was thinking of starting with 2 channels and adding on from there as I add to the layout, TIU powered separately with a Z-500 I have from an MTH set.

 

As for the Atlas turnouts, I was planning on using jumpers to connect the switch legs. I'm going to have 2 loops connected by turnouts and the loops will be isolated from each other. Was also going to ask here before finalizing my setup. I have quite a bit of track and the OGR wire & a bunch of other stuff, but no turnouts. Probably won't be purchasing any turnouts until next month, so I have not had a turnout to really examine yet. 

 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 1:24 PM

Originally Posted by PJB:
Alex - thanks. I might email you for more clarity. One thing - how are you maintaining one power drop per track block yet putting a power drop at each leg of each Atlas switch? Peter


Peter,

I insulated the rails to make sure that the blocks were isolated from each other.

 

Another aspect you should consider is block occupany detection, perhaps for future enhancements to your train. When I first started, I insulated all three rails of each track section, but somewhere along the way I started insuating the center rail and just one of the outside rails, and in some cases just the center rail. I cannot remember why I did this. Lazy?

 

In retrospect, now that I am 'computerizing' the layout, I wish I had insulated at least one of the outer rails of each track section throughout. BTW, the isolated outer rail provides the one of the easiest and best occupancy detection schemes, in case you are interested.

 

Glad to help (or at least try to . . .)

 

Alex

 

Happy O-Gauge Railroading!

 

See My Layout Under Construction Here

OGR  forum member since 26 January 2008

Last edited by Ingeniero No1 December 26, 2013 1:26 PM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 1:43 PM

My layout is 54' X 32' around the walls using Atlas O track and 12AWG wire.

 

Initially I wired my first loop in the star pattern.  But the problem was, with the around the room configuration and with 16 power drops/blocks per loop I was using a ton of wire for a single loop, some drops being 80' long, and bundling them onto a terminal strip was a spider web of wire.  To do that for 5 more loops would have been about 96 total lines of wire to me would have been a mess all terminating in one area.  And after hooking up the first 16 to the terminal strip I had signal problems anyway.

 

So for the next loop I tried just using a 12AWG Bus wire, starting at the TIU and around the perimeter of the layout, and attaching one 18v light bulb to the end of the bus wire.  I used 16AWG wire for power drops to the bus wire using Posi-Tap Connectors.  As before, I attached a power feed every 10th track joint, no matter the length of track, with a plastic rail joiner on the center rail in between each power drop.  I also attached common wires to both outside rails.  I attached the feeder wires to the track as shown to me by the late Kirk Mitchell from JusTrains by inserting the wire into the rail joiner and connecting the tracks together, locking the wire tightly to the rail.  Not a drop of solder on my layout.

 

I then got a 10 signal rating all around the loop, so I proceeded to wire the rest of the layout the same way and continue to have 10's on each loop.

 

TMCC/Legacy also works great by simply attaching  a wire to each TIU output terminal.

 

For TIU power I used a 18/24vac 1000ma power adapter #273-1690 with the “adaptaplug M” part #273-1716 from Radio Shack.

 

To attach the bus wire and Z4000 output wire to the TIU I used Dual in line Banana Jacks Part #274-717 from Radio Shack.  Eight are required for input & output on the TIU and two more for each Z4000 if you choose.

 

 

Brian

President, Chief Executive Officer

Penn American Railroad

"Serving the Basement"

Northern Central High Railers

 
 
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December 26, 2013 4:16 PM

PJB;

The filter goes in the drop to each block of track. It keeps the signal from bouncing off the end of the block and going back out to interfere with the buss signal.

Within a block the signal doesn't bounce enough to cause a big problem.

For max clarity of the signal a filter at  each end of the block (thus 2 right next to each other on both sides of every insulating pin) will snub the signal bounce and give MAX signal strength on the rails.

This is the optimum method of use but requires twice as many filters.

You can drop power to the end of the block but then you end up with more blocks due to the Max of 12 track joints per block. You can avoid this by soldering the joints but that is a lot of work. (A soldered rail joint is not seen by the DCS signal, it's one piece electrically)

IF you solder rail you can have VERY long blocks.

 

One point there, If you keep you blocks shorter than your passenger car consist length and power every other block off a different channel / power brick you can spread the lighting load over the 2 bricks.

Changing to LED lights is a lot simpler.

 

Russell, Msgt, USAF, Ret. http://roguespace.com/Trainpg.html

Maine 3 Railers

Last edited by Russell December 26, 2013 4:20 PM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 5:07 PM

How difficult is it to trouble-shoot with a buss wiring setup? Maybe not that difficult with track blocks? Brian (traindeisel) - that sounds like a good way to go with Atlas switches, especially since I want to get this thing up and running before my 10 year old twins leave for college. Lol. OK if I mail you to discuss some aspects further? Thanks for all the helpful insight into this subject. I'm not electrically savvy at all and never built a layout before. Don't know anyone in the area that has a good handle on both DCS and Legacy. So you all are my help network. Thanks again.
 
Last edited by PJB December 26, 2013 5:08 PM
 
 
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December 26, 2013 5:11 PM

I also have a double track mainline.  I use four conductor 12 gauge trailer cable plus a 10 gauge common ground.  I have leads to every track section.  Two of the conductors are used for the two main lines.  The other two are used for switches and accessories.  It works very well for my TMCC system.

 

John Meixel
TCA 89-29098
"Nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded." Yogi Berra

 
 
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December 26, 2013 6:25 PM

Originally Posted by PJB:
Not now going to rip it all out and re-wire with solid wire.


PJB,  May I ask why you are planning to replace you stranded wire with solid wire?  Thanks, Pat B.

 

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December 26, 2013 8:00 PM

Originally Posted by lpb007:
Originally Posted by PJB:
Not now going to rip it all out and re-wire with solid wire.


PJB,  May I ask why you are planning to replace you stranded wire with solid wire?  Thanks, Pat B.

I'm curious as to the reasoning here as well.  Since it's not going to make any difference, it seems like a lot of trouble for nothing! 

 

TCA, North Penn O-Gaugers, MTH ASC Certified Technician

 

Nothing is so easy as the job you imagine someone else doing.

 
 
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December 26, 2013 8:58 PM

Gunrunnerjohn - I should have said that I clicked on the hyperlink given to the filter website. Did a quick read of the recommended steps and it specifically says to use solid wire.  Peter
 
 
 
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December 26, 2013 9:20 PM

Peter,  I am sure that will not make any difference.  The statement is made in reference to the tap wires and it says that solid wires "can" be used.  I would believe that if it made any difference at all stranded wire would be preferred over solid wire of the same wire gauge because of the skin effect at high frequencies.  I am just concerned that you would go to the expense and trouble of rewiring for no benefit.  Pat B.

 

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December 26, 2013 10:00 PM

Really starting to consider the bus wiring option.  I have the OGR stranded 14 AWG for all my power drops, and I really like this stuff.  But don't think OGR sells it in 12 AWG.  Newbie question - any recommendations for 12 AWG?  Or is any old 12 AWG sheathed speaker wire fine?  Thanks again.     

 
 
 
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December 27, 2013 10:24 AM

I'm sure there was a misinterpretation of what was said on that link, stranded wire is fine.

 

 

TCA, North Penn O-Gaugers, MTH ASC Certified Technician

 

Nothing is so easy as the job you imagine someone else doing.

 
 
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December 27, 2013 10:26 AM

Re: Solid or stranded wire.  Technically, our trains, track, and digital signalling doesn't really care if the wire is solid or stranded.  Stranded is easier to pull, bundle, and terminate in screw clamp terminal strips.  (Terminal strips are in the middle of linked page.)  Solid #16 or #18 wire tap from terminal strip to track is easier to solder to track.

 

Re:  Blocks, Sections, Divisions, Loops, Taps, Drops, etc. we can wind up comparing apples and oranges.  That's the reason for a Glossary on my website.  Every Chief Operating Officer needs to get these terms clear for their Empire the same way they need a clear Color Code for wiring.

 

Re:  Powering Switches/Turnouts with dedicated power wire allows switches/turnouts to be controlled when track power is off.  Only one power wire (14 - 18 volts) is needed.  The two control wires attach to the controller wherever it is.

 

Susan's Run Room http://www.slsprr.net/

 
 
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December 27, 2013 11:16 AM

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I'm sure there was a misinterpretation of what was said on that link, stranded wire is fine.

 


Gunrunner john - directly from the site - not that this point requires any further discussion: "Tap wires to track from power buss can be 14 or 16 gauge solid and should be soldered to track."
 
 
 
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December 27, 2013 12:46 PM

Solid or stranded will make no difference for that. Solid wire is just a tad easier to solder for some than others. I would guess that if you took a poll of the members here, most use stranded wire.

 
 
 
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December 27, 2013 1:44 PM

"can be" is the operative phrase.  They also "can be" stranded, and it'll work fine.

 

 

TCA, North Penn O-Gaugers, MTH ASC Certified Technician

 

Nothing is so easy as the job you imagine someone else doing.

 
 
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December 27, 2013 2:12 PM

Originally Posted by PJB:

Really starting to consider the bus wiring option.  I have the OGR stranded 14 AWG for all my power drops, and I really like this stuff.  But don't think OGR sells it in 12 AWG.  Newbie question - any recommendations for 12 AWG?  Or is any old 12 AWG sheathed speaker wire fine?  Thanks again.     

Ancor brand wire is the nicest wire I have ever found.  It is made for marine use and is tinned to avoid corrosion, so solders easily and it is very flexible. Available in many sizes all the way down to 1 AWG!  Also, available in a number of different colors.

 
 
 
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December 27, 2013 2:49 PM

Conrad50 - thanks! Gunrunnerjohn - since we're splitting hairs ( lol ) I thought the "can be" applied to the gauge, not the solid. Thanks again for all the helpful input. From the posts here, coming away with the distinct notion that no one is truly doing one power drop per block and doing a power drop from all three legs of the Atlas switch - without further tinkering. One comment that resonated, however, was about future consideration. I would imagine Star pattern more easily accommodates this. Frankly, I have turnouts with power drops on all three sides and no DCS problems right now. So I might stick with this and, if problems start to occur, I can always take two drops and route them through an independent source not running to TIU. Peter.
 
 
 
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December 27, 2013 3:47 PM

Originally Posted by PJB:

Newbie question - any recommendations for 12 AWG?  Or is any old 12 AWG sheathed speaker wire fine?  Thanks again.     

 

Here is what I used for the Bus wire from Waytek Wire:

 

12GA 2 Conductor Jacketed Wire

 

Email me if you have any questions.

 

 

Brian

President, Chief Executive Officer

Penn American Railroad

"Serving the Basement"

Northern Central High Railers

Last edited by Traindiesel December 27, 2013 3:48 PM
 
 
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