Most of the pieces I ended up having to cut were curved pieces - I recommend a bandsaw and the best way to cut it for this.
You are capable of cutting and making a special length of Fastrack. You can "hack" one out with a plain old hacksaw, you can make clean, easy cut with Dremel and a cut off wheel. If you can put track together wand wire it up, Ibet you can make a nice piece of track. You might have to do it a couple times. You can make a useable piece if you just try to do it. Don't be afraid to try it!!
Originally Posted by Lee Willis:
One point to keep in mind that is not generally discussed is that it makes a noticeable difference in smoothness to make the cut and paste line at an angle, so that when re-assembled, the cut line/joints of the railss are at different locations side to side, so that the wheels of the same axle don't hit joints on both sides at exactly the same time. Trains pass over the joint much more smoothly and quietly that way.
Interesting observation, maybe that's why Fastrack joints are staggered as well. I never gave it any thought. 
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Originally Posted by Lee Willis:
One point to keep in mind that is not generally discussed is that it makes a noticeable difference in smoothness to make the cut and paste line at an angle, so that when re-assembled, the cut line/joints of the railss are at different locations side to side, so that the wheels of the same axle don't hit joints on both sides at exactly the same time. Trains pass over the joint much more smoothly and quietly that way.
Interesting observation, maybe that's why Fastrack joints are staggered as well. I never gave it any thought.
I did not realize this thread was still alive until someone just posted a "Like", which the forum automatically sent me an email to advise.
I understand Lee's concern about reduced noise by staggering the cuts, but I honestly did not consider for a moment doing it that way. Nor have I noticed any excessive noise resulting from the square cuts at all, just in case anyone is worried about it.
To me the ease of making square cuts and the fact that it does not misalign the ties makes it a no-brainer. Not that I am taking issue with anybody else's way of doing it. As they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat!
Rod
an even easier way to make a perfect cut is to use an old carbide saw blade on your miter saw. I have done this several times. Just put the track on the miter saw and lower the blade very slowly. This makes a perfect 90 degree cut. Then put it back together just the same as shown in this tutorial.
Originally Posted by c.demille:
an even easier way to make a perfect cut is to use an old carbide saw blade on your miter saw. I have done this several times. Just put the track on the miter saw and lower the blade very slowly. This makes a perfect 90 degree cut. Then put it back together just the same as shown in this tutorial.
Don't you find this method melts the plastic roadbed and makes a big mess?
Rod
I haven't had a melting problem with the pieced I've made.
It would be nice if Lionel came up with a transition piece like Kato! I could see that helping so many people to using Fastrack soooo much easier!
Howard, Mike, etc.???????
Excellent tutorial! Thanks for sharing with everyone.
--Greg
Originally Posted by PRR2818:
It would be nice if Lionel came up with a transition piece like Kato! I could see that helping so many people to using Fastrack soooo much easier!
Howard, Mike, etc.???????
Well, there was that video that Mike R. posted about the extensible Fastrack pieces, I wonder if it's a product now? I believe it was posted around April 1st... Seemed like a perfect product. 
Oh Yeah! Lionel Part Number: Oi812 or something like that!
I do not want the expander paste, it has been found that it causes Loyal Lionel Fans to start buying MTH Trains instead of Lionel!
Originally Posted by Greg Houser:
Excellent tutorial! Thanks for sharing with everyone.
--Greg
This is why I hope certain posts are not archived as either they might not have initially been important to the member or for a new member that can get that valuable information!
I know this is a over kill. But, if you want to and have access to one of these to cut a bunch of Fastrack this will do it very smoothly on what ever angle you prefer. I'm just putting it out for information. Picture shows me cutting Glenn Snyder shelving, but it's giving you the idea.
Attachments
Images (1)
It is now well into 2017 and this thread is still very helpful. I have running trains for 30+ years, but in other scales. This helps me sort out a potable for train shows, grandkids' schools, etc.
many, many thanks, Mike
The rear suspension on many vehicles has one side's shock absorber pointing forward, and the other pointing aft, to promote the same basic softening action as the angled cuts would produce. (And a railroad crossing was used in the original article on Fords I'm recalling, lol.
And aren't RR crossings designed at angles when possible today for the nearly the same reason?)(they have to maintain the crossing, less traffic pounding = less maintenance)
Near stall, the resistance of two offset ruts and an axle with slight fore and aft play/twist make it a smooth "climb" of half steps, with some forces becoming lateral rather than both wheels doing one simultanious big step which tends to produce a violent vertical hop.
It might be mentioned, I kinda just scanned this thread, but think the real RR offset rail connections too. Weight vs joint intergrity plays a bigger role I'd bet, but smooth doesn't hurt...."you can sleep" 
I've had FasTrack for several years and like the stuff very much. I use transition pieces to tubular for certain cars or accessories and was glad to have learned how to lift up the rails to make insulated pieces for grade crossings, etc. But this is incredibly great info. It should help many of us to not only make those custom fitters, but we could also use those cut sections as cheaper and better-fitting transition pieces to O tubular!
And this forums comes through again! Great suggestion on making custom, or repairing in my case, fastrack pieces!
This thread is an oldie, but goodie!
I came across it when I did a Bing search on cutting Fastrack.
Layout planning was driving me crazy, coming up with combinations to get 6" lengths, lol.
Much easier to know that I can cut Fastrack for my new carpet layout, much the same way I use to cut Gargraves for my old (now gone) permanent layout.
I'll likely start my own thread about using O-84 and O-96 Fastrack for a 10' x 16' carpet layout.
Jim
