NOW WHAT DO I DO?

sonny;

You got it, chop the wire and insert fuse.

Or, get more wire and take one wire Brick to fuse pin 1, Then other wire is Fuse pin 2 to TIU

Russell has it right. And Sonny, never feel bad about asking a question.

someone translate the  ++++++++ and _____________.-jim

Sonny, if your asking - I can guarantee someone else is wondering as well.

Paul

Here's a good explanation from the website of toytrains1. This is what I used before I got a transformer with a fast breaker.

http://www.toytrains1.com/DCS_Tips.htm

Peter

Sonny,

    I recommend the Scott 10 Amp resettable breakers instead of the fuses, as time goes on you will find out the resettable breakers make the layout a lot easier to work with.  The fuses are a good starting point however.   Have a good time with your DCS layout.

PCRR/Dave

Notice the Scott 10 Amp breaker banks in front of my transformers, even the Z4K.

Sonny

The 180 PoHo has a great rapid-acting breaker. No need for a fuse or another breaker.

The PH180 breaker will trip every time before any 10A thermal breaker, Dewey is correct.  It's the best breaker on any transformer that I've seen.  On a sudden overload, it'll trip far faster than a 6A thermal breaker as well.

Good to know... I've got 4.

What about the 135W PoHo that I'm running with my Powermaster?

Thanks,

- Mario

The PH135 has a very ordinary thermal circuit breaker, and it isn't nearly as quick as the PH180.

where do I get these 6 Amp breakers at?

Take your pick from this Selection of 6A Circuit Breakers, lots of choices.

Guns,

   The 6 ampers are great but I have never had any problem with the 10 Amp breakers, probably should go lighter, but until I have some kind of problem I will leave it alone.

PCRR/Dave

With these external breakers I think you need to assess the amp loads you run. I gradually knocked my breakers down to 5 amps. I don't get any unnecessary trips with the 5s, but they do trip fast (faster than the 10s I started with because they are closer to the loads I typically run). 

Roger

Since these are thermal breakers, I find that the 6A ones have plenty of margin for most uses.  If you have steady-state draw in excess of 6A, then they're a problem.

I have a 2A thermal breaker on my workbench power supply, and I've seen the ammeter up at around 4A for a second or more and it didn't trip.  I like the lower value for the workbench as it's not uncommon to have a problem locomotive that draws excessive current, I want it to trip on the spot to avoid any further damage.

John,

I noticed the same thing with my 5s. I was working on some PW F3s last week that I had purchased and was comparing their amp draws. Then I decided to add some stuff to the consist to see what would happen. I got to just over 6 and my 5 amp breakers didn't trip. Of course, if I had a derail, the button would have popped right away. I probably should have added a couple more things to find out exactly what the trip point is. Next time

Roger

Roger, the opening of the breaker or a fuse is a combination of current and time.  If you go to the Bussman fuse web site, you can find tables of blow times at various overcurrents. 

Roger1,

   Remember all you are trying to due is safe guard your gear, as long as you do not have a problem doing that all is good, I do not want to needlessly keep resetting my breakers all the time if they are to light for the actual running I do, on the other hand I do not want to damage anything either.  Actually the 7 Amp breakers are probably even better, and some time I just might invest in them.

PCRR/Dave

The thing about the maximum value of the breakers is the delays.  Most folks won't be pushing the 10A limit all the time, probably only seldom surges for startup or grades.