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"Banked Curves" is called superelevation.
 
I superelevated the curves using 1/16 x 1/4" basswood strips. Not immediately apparent, but you can see the cars tilt as they go around the curves. The superelevation starts on straight sections about 18" before the first curved section and continues to about 18" after the last curved section. The 1/16" basswood gives you a prototypical 3". The maximum for real track is about 6", so you could use 1/8" if you wanted to. It would be more difficult to bend, however.
 
Originally Posted by Gerald Marafioti:

There were several mentions of ''banking curves'', could someone give me some more details about how to go about this & if possible post some pictures, I may want to give this a try it sounds like it would add more visual appeal to the layout.

Micromark Basswood strips 

Gorilla Glue

Irwin Spring Clamps

 

I work short sections at a time. On the outside of the curve, apply very small dabs of Gorilla glue on a few ties at a time. Use the spring clamps to clamp the basswood in place. Let the glue dry. Apply more glue and bend/clamp the wood. Repeat. Glue/Clamp/Dry until the piece is done.

 

I have more curves to do, but it will be a while before I can work on them. I'll post some pics when I get around to it.

 

Gilly

Last edited by Gilly@N&W
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Have them(072); easy to do (gradually shim the outside with thin wood or cardboard,

between the roadbed and the track, ballast covers the shims) - not too high or sharply increasing; careful if you can only see the curve from the inside - hard to judge your handiwork (been there), and no superelevation is better than bad superelevation.

 

Prototypical; cheap thrills. 

Last edited by D500
Originally Posted by sinclair:

What about on a double main, do you have to have a grade on the outside before the bank so that they are on the same plane, or do you bank them independently so the tracks are on different planes?

Superelevation is independant by-track. So, on a double mainline you do end up with the tops of the rails in two different planes.

 

Gilly

 

Boilermaker/Clem, very nice pictures. Thank you for posting them.

Last edited by Gilly@N&W

I use N scale foam roadbed, half full width, under the outer rail.  The slope on the N Scale roadbed matches the slope on the underlying Homasote main road bed.  What everyone else said about easements in both height and curvature is important. Also what Gilly said about Super Elevation being track by track is correct. You end up with a sawtooth pattern:

 

 

 

 

2205 BU

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  • 2205 BU
Originally Posted by AGHRMatt:

..be careful to ease into and out of the super-elevation. Long-wheelbase rigid-frame steam (Northern/Texas) might take offense to a sudden shift in track elevation, especially on sharper curves.

I use 37" sections of Gargraves leading and exiting superelevated curves. At the far end (w/o superelevation), I put two screws through the ties. The superelevation starts @ 18.5". I place one screw there at the inside of the curve. This allows a very subtle transition from "flat" to superelevated over 18.5".

 

Gilly 

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