TIU Power

I don't see any problem as to why you can't use fixed 1 for all. the DCS signal present would have no effect on a conventional motor. Just as the output of the zw going up and down shouldn't have any adverse affect. No need to change anything,  nor even to use another leg of the ZW or the TIU. (although you certainly could)

Breaker is an essential part of the deal though. Especially when testing other unknown trains.

Personally, I'd use an adapter thru the AUX port.  For one thing, if you break the circuit to FIXED 1 to control a loco on it, you'll affect anything running on DCS on the other circuits.  Also, turning electronics on and off has never been deemed conducive to its health.

Chris, you are correct on not trusting the ZW breaker.   

Thanks for the advice. I did in deed go with an AUX power wall wort. At this point, I have everything wired up and ready to test. And now I've run into a problem. When I apply track power (18v), the bumpers on either end of the track flash briefly every 5-10 seconds or so. (I did not time the interval.) A DCS engine placed on the track is not found by the remote. I did check the engine on my regular layout, and the remote found it right away, so it is not the engine. I put a lighted passenger car on the track, and nada. So the track is not getting power. I checked the TUI (power off) and both the red and black in/outs have continuity. So it is not the TIU. And I am running through Fixed 1, just to keep things simple. That leaves the PSX1 circuit breaker. I have not used one of these before, but it seems pretty straight forward to wire. The 4 block wire post is the input. With the 4 block nearest you, the 2 posts on the left are power in. The 2 on the right are to go to another PSX unit, if it is needed. The 2 block posts on the opposite end are output. Just match red to red and black to black input/output. When I apply track power, 2 LEDS come on steady and the third flashes very briefly, just like the bumper lights. The jumper is on posts 2-3. Did I miss something, or do I have a bad breaker? Any ideas?

Chris

LVHR

Chris,

That leaves the PSX1 circuit breaker.

If you remove the PSX1, does the problem go away? If so, it would appear that either you've wired the PSX1 incorrectly or it's defective.

With the bumper lights going on and off it sounds like you have a short and the PSX-AC is doing it's job. As I recall the PSX-AC defaults to automatic reset unless you add a momentary N.C. switch to a couple of it's pins. So the PSX is tripping and then resetting itself and tripping again because no one fixed the short.

The PSX-AC is an excellent breaker with many extra features. I have been using them for a few years now and would be glad to try and help you if you need it. The PSX instructions are pretty good though and explain all the settings and jumpers etc. pretty well.

Ok, I found some documentation this morning that does indeed support what you have been saying: There is a short somewhere. With that in mind, I disconnected the TIU at the PSX1 output. No wires coming out, nada. I also disconnected and then re-seated the wires on the input side, taking care to insure there were not loose strands to cause a problem. Power on to the ZW, and voltage up: still indicating a short! Just to be sure, I unscrewed the unit from the shelf and looked over the connections carefully. Nothing unusual. Powered up one more time, no difference. Time to call the company. I hope there is a reset function. Otherwise they will be sending me another unit.

Chris

LVHR

Have you connected the transformer directly to the track, without the PSX in the circuit, to be sure there isn't a short in the track?

If I am reading this correctly, you have the ZW connected directly to the PSX inputs and nothing connected to the PSX outputs and something is still shorted? If I have it wrong here, the info below may not be the problem here, but may still be good to know for future reference.

There is a transorb (D11 on the PSX per instructions) on the PSX that limits voltage to 20 volts. They say to remove it if you want to use more than 20 volts, and they go on to say the transorb can also fail and to look for a burnt appearance if it's failed. If this fails shorted it may be something to check. They say that if it fails to just remove it. I believe this is a just a TVS, in which case you could replace it with another TVS at the transformer or at the track. The MTH TIU also has a TVS built in to each channel.

About all I know about the older postwar ZWs is what they look like. Never used or owned one so I don't know much about them, like voltage, etc.

Not sure where you got the PSX-ACs, but I think Tony's Train Exchange is pretty knowledgeable about them. Someone there may have even designed them if I remember correctly. Good place to call for information.

Please let us know your findings, I am interested in what the problem was and what caused it if that was determined. 

I called the manufacturer (DCC Specialties) this morning and had a very pleasant conversation with Lou. He knew almost right away what the issue was. It turns out that DCC makes more than one version of this unit. Some are specifically DC and some are specifically AC, and they are not necessarily interchangeable. The unit I was provided with is a DC version, and it will not work in an AC environment. It acted exactly as it was supposed to do when exposed to AC. Fortunately, the unit is robust enough that no harm was done to it. So now I'm in the process of tracking down the AC version. BTW, I hooked everything up tonight w/o the CB, and everything worked as designed. I just need to get that layer of protection installed for the electronics.

Chris

LVHR

Ahhh yes this forum problems will get solved..thanks for sharing your results

Glad you got it figured out and thanks for reporting back with your findings. I hadn't considered the possibility that you might have had the DC version? That would certainly change things. Charles Ro carries them and so does Tony's Train Exchange. I don't know of any other dealers. DCC Specialties probably explained this, but be sure you specify the PSX-AC. If you want screw terminals for connecting all the wires to your PSX-AC, Tony's has them in kits with the correct sets of screw terminals to fit the boards.

My replacement board arrived the other day, so I thought I would post a picture of the differences. I've circled the main points to check when purchasing one of these. Presuming you are the usual 3 railer around here, meaning AC environment, look for the instructions to say "AC" on them. The paper should be white, not manila. The board itself should have a very prominent heat sink across 2 of the electrical chips. the other chip should be marked "AC".

Chris

LVHR

Looks like you should be back in business. These are great breakers and I think they are probably about as good as you can get, IMO. You should be very well protected now. Good luck with them.