removing body shell from lionel u boat

LOOK UP THE PARTS MANUAL ON THE LIONEL LLC WEBSITE.

Check for screws under the rear of each truck, you may have to swivel them to see them. I do not own one of these but there are usually  additional screws on Lionel diesels between the truck and fuel tank holding the shell on. I'm not sure what type of rubbing your hearing but often times the tach sensor is too close to the flywheel ring causing a rubbing or squeaking noise.

Thanks for the replies...it is a large rubbing sound on the front motor with each movement of the flywheel it seems...I removed the trucks and there does not seem to be any additional screws to remove.  The shell seems to hang on over the vicinity of the speaker...but rigidly like there may be additional screws somewhere.  You really don't notice the sound with the engine sounds on...but my other diesels are so smooth and quiet with engine sounds silenced that I worry about problems later on...it is pretty noticeable with the sounds off.

There could be screws hiding beneath the fuel tank as well, you could try removing the tank and see. If its any consolation turnaround time on Lionel repairs is down to about a week should that become your last resort.

Yeah, I just got back two engines from repairs, one brand new, in very timely fashion...just did not want to do it again.  Oh well, I received three new engines and two were fine...the new CN gp-9 is awesome!  I guess 2 out of 3 is not too bad?

Yea if I remember right 2 screws under the fuel tank. If it has the bell near the fuel tank that will have to be glued back on. Then the engine has those spring things for the lights to the shell. That is if it is made like the U30 from about ten years back.

If you figure this out, I'd like to know where they are too.   One of the things that amazes me about this one is no rear marker lights, I think I'll add some.

The lionel service dept. says removing the shell will void the warranty...shell is easily broken...so I am returning it today.  This loco has good sounds and actions...but there are no marker lights on rear, although there is a place for them.  It also had some paint issues...shiny blemish on top of shell, different from the overall matte black finish...and rough finish on the cab shades...minor issues really but they are there.  I was maybe going to get the other cab number...but now will just hold off with this one.  It makes you wonder if things like this are reasons for blow-out sales!  I am so happy with the good things coming from lionel that I just deal with these things!

I'm guessing they just made too many and it didn't sell like they figured.  It is obviously a lower-end model from the lack of "frills".

I have an older U30 that is apart.  There are 2 screws under the fuel tank that secure the cab to the frame.  The parts list for the new one with it's photo seems very similar.  The bell presses in and out of a grommet, no glue required. 

I suspect you have some part of the cab light harness wiring and/or it's mounting tape rubbing the motor flywheel. 

Thanks Steims, I tried removing the fuel tank, but after removing the 4 screws, the tank was still holding on some way.  I sent it back to lionel...but I wish I could have done something myself.  Now I opened another can of worms with my "to grease" or "not to grease" thread!

Bummer, I was hoping you'd figure out the U-Boat shell so I wouldn't have to figure it out.

Has anyone actually removed the shell from one of these? I've toyed with picking up a U-33 for a project I have in mind and am curious to know whether the shell is cast as a solid piece or whether, like some Lionel diesels I've seen, the "shell" actually is made from separate pieces for the nose, hood and cab?

My project would involve alterations to the nose, and I'm wondering how difficult it would be to remove the stock nose.

Thanks,

RM

In my case, they are separate pieces very difficult to remove, and easily cracked.  So back to lionel it went.

The Chessie U30C I have apart appears to be built up from separate pieces.  It comes off and goes on as one unit but you can see the construction is from separate pieces molded from different colors.  The cab looks separate as well as the nose from the main body.  A new cab is $180 so be careful with you modification/customization.

I bought my whole second U-Boat from Charles Ro for $275, so replacing the shell would be 2/3 of the total price!

I removed mine tonight (its the horn that holds it on) just the 4 screws and the horn..

I removed mine cause the number board was off and laying in the shell also made a bad noise from the motor now fixed they didnt tighen the screws....

Gunrunner what lights are you talking about in the back? my number boards and back up lights work on mine...

There are 2 hidden screws under the air tanks that you won't see until the air tanks are off.

Never mind, there is not a separate air tank on this model. I must be thinking of a different model.

Well theres studs in the shell for under the tank...Not installed(no screws) ..will be now ..That explains why the shell is comming apart... Gunrunner never mind i see what your saying .. Good luck with that it will be hard to do

I do love the blinking light and red front lights when in reverse ...Overall there was alot of problems.. No screws under the tank numberboard and loose motor.. I know i should of sent it back but i thought is was just a numberboard when i started..

For 270 bucks though i am gonna run it till it breaks lol

Actually, the hardest part seems to be figuring out how to take the shell off!   I can tap in to the headlights for the rear markers, and since there's a spot for them, drilling them out and putting LED's in should be a snap.  There is something besides the four screws holding it on.

If you had the shell off, what's the secret?

Mine split in half without even trying to take it apart. I just picked the engine up and it split. When I sent it back, they said they had no replacements, and are issuing a refund for it.

Just a caution.... if it breaks, you may not be able to get another.

The four screws ..The bell is just pressed on .. I gently removed it ..Now someone said theres screws under the gas tank ..There wasnt on mine.. But now there is cause it holds the shell on now..

Mine was comming apart to it was cause there was no screws under the gastank..

I think they were not on by mistake.. Cause theres no way the 4 screws will hold that shell together if you pick it up by the shell .. So gunrunner check to see if yours are screwed on .. you just have to remove the gastank to see..Gently remove the bell plus the four screws..And the 2 under the gastank if yours has them.. IF IT DOESNT  I WOULD PUT THEM IN... Runs great now video  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...x=1&feature=plcp

The U30 I have from about ten years ago had two screws under the fuel tank. No grommet for the bell or maybe I lost it long time ago. Had to glue the bell back on.

I'll have to check one of mine.

I just got my u-boat back from lionel and it runs great.  Very timely turnaround...it seems that I have 50% success with new locos...but when they do work they are so-o- neat and that with their good service I am satisfied...just such a hassle to mail back.  I just got the frisco sd-40...beautiful loco...they must not have made many of them...hard to find now...anyone else get one?

We just obtained the Santa Fe U28CG from about 10 years ago and its making a noise from the front motor as well. I'm trying to remove the shell and encountering the same difficulties mentioned here. Have found all four screws but two of them under the tank are very small and don't seem to holding on the cab.  I still can't get it off!

Ours appears to have taken a hit in shipping so I'm not sure what I'll find underneath.

She certainly has a pretty face!

From how the shell acts with the four screws removed, I'm sure there are a couple somewhere in the middle.  The shell also seems to be in two pieces.

Success!  The shell came off with some gentle persuasion. ( 9 years has somewhat fused the cab to the frame). I believe our had 6 screws total holding it together - 2 at each end and just one pair under the fuel tank.

I found the problem with the motor noise however, which was that the flywheel appeared to have a crack in the lower disk and the upper and lower discs had separated. A few drops of super glue and she's running fine now. There is still some slight 'mechanical' noise when rolling but I can live with that.

The rear coupler was broken off so I removed the pilot and undid the T bar. Couldn't see how to disconnect the wires - any suggestions please?

I second the previous suggestion, it'll be a lot easier to simply splice the wires.  Polarity isn't important, so there's no possibility of connecting them wrong.

Reading through the thread, it looks like different vintages of U30's are being discussed.  I bought one of the new U33s a few months ago and finally had time during the holidays to run it.  Right away the fan was pretty loud and after a short time the cab light flashed the fan error code.  Took the four screws out to remove the shell, but something is still holding it.  Checked all discussed previously including trying to remove the bell (put a lot of force on it,  but it didn't budge (don't want to break it with too much force if this isn't what is holding it together).  Has anyone been successful in removing the shell on one of these?  Appreciate any guidance you can provide.

Thanks, I'll try a little more force, otherwise back to Lionel.