MTH Premier Superliner cars and Ground throws don't play well together

I would like to know how one might solve this too, Chris.  You might want to make the title of your post more specific.  Do any other brands of Superliners (or long passenger cars) have this issue?  It might not be just an MTH thing.  Following!

Time to go underground via remote control ala Tortoise type machine or manual linkage using bell crank linkage.  Another way is to extend the throw rod and the machine supporting ties farther away from the track.   

Extend the ties and add an extension to the ground throw.

Or if distance is not far, put a cable pull on the side of the table(check micro-mark)

Ted, I changed the title based on your suggestion. Thank you!

Looking at old pictures of the modular layout, I think I simply got lucky. The ground throws in the yard were all on the divergant side, which means the cars should have hit them, or maybe not.  The switches were GG 100 series with straight diverging rails , not curved O-72s. That may have made a difference, as the new layout mostly uses Ross Custom 0-72s with curved diverging rails. The other possibility is that I simply never ran the train through the diverging route. Unfortunately, that's not a possibility with this layout.

I will take a closer look at which switches are likely to see these cars on the new layout, and where the control mechanism is located. Don's suggestion of extending the ties and adding an extension to the linkage may work. If that is not possible, I'll investigate installing a control mechanism underneath. That will be interesting, as I have about 2 -2 1/2" between the top of the ties and the underside of the layout.

Chris

LVHR

I have all Tortoise switch machines. But in one yard that’s a narrow shelf and everything’s in reach. I opted to go with ground throws. Never had an issue till the wife came home from York with a Triplex. The steps wouldn’t clear the ground throws.
Ross turnouts have long ties so this is easily done. With Gargraves. You would just need whatever thickness shim to mount the throw on. In the pic. you can see the original holes. A bent piece of music wire is all that’s needed.

@lehighline posted:

I have a set of the original MTH Premier Amtrak Superliner cars, which I have run without issue on the Lehigh Valley HiRailers modules for many years. My new layout is different, in that both main lines have Ross Custom O-72 switches where the main lines follow the curve. I decided to run these cars as they have not seen track time since before COVID. To my surprise, the cars came to an aburpt hault while I pushed them through the curved portion of the switch. It turns out the overhanging skirt is hitting the ground throw! I tried a similar switch that has a DZ-1000 machine on it. The car made it through, but only because the skirt passed between the 2 screws holding the DZ-1000 to the switch. Relocating the ground throws and switch machines to the straight side fixes the issue, but is not an option due to other things getting in the way.

I have the same problem with a switch entering my yard with the Lionel Legacy diesels with the Kinematic couplers.  The pilot hangs out and snags the ground throw!  I'll be changing the yard entry when I remove the double slip switches, so I'm going to fix that at the same time.  FWIW, my MTH Premier Amtrak Superliner make it by just fine, they clear the top of the ground throw.

As you can see the plow is on a collision course with the ground throw.

I think the ground throws also look more realistic when extended farther out from the track too.

If I stay with the ground throws, I think I'll have to remount them all the way on the end of the switch ties.

BTW, the only way I see to use the DZ-1000 machines is to relocate them to the straight side of the switch. Otherwise, I'm looking at going to the underside of the layout.

Chris

LVHR

I'd like to relocate my ground throws, but I don't see any longer actuator arms.  How are you planning on extending the actuator?

GRJ, Look at Dave C's post above. I think that should work.

Chris

LVHR

I owe people an update on this issue.

I have 5 switches with ground throws. I have been able to move the throws to the straight side of the switch, which solves the problem. However, for one of these the fix is only temporary, as scenery goes where the throw is. That one will be removed and I'll install a DZ-1000 on top, or go underneath with a Rix-Rak or something similar.

For the DZ-1000s, I was able to leave all of them in place. Instead, I found a small flathead wood screw that fits where the roundhead goes. I had to carefully countersink the hole just enough that the screw is recessed. I needed to replace only the screw next to the track.

John, I think the best solution for you is to move the throw away from the track and facricate an extension arm. The other easy option is to install a powered switch machine with a flathead screw.

Chris

LVHR

@Dave_C posted:

I have all Tortoise switch machines. But in one yard that’s a narrow shelf and everything’s in reach. I opted to go with ground throws. Never had an issue till the wife came home from York with a Triplex. The steps wouldn’t clear the ground throws.
Ross turnouts have long ties so this is easily done. With Gargraves. You would just need whatever thickness shim to mount the throw on. In the pic. you can see the original holes. A bent piece of music wire is all that’s needed.

I went to ground throws to dodge wiring and soldering. Much to my surprise, my larger engines bump the throws in 096/072 curved switches 😮.   Soooo I moved the throws to the inside of the curve. Engines clear the throw. Great !!! BUT Now the Undersides of some 21” passenger cars bump the throw. 😳   🫢😵‍💫🫣 🤪🤪🤪

This Looks like a next step for me ….. and hopefully a good solution. Further away from the rails is what is needed.
Are right angle bends enough or do you recommend a “U” shaped bend (stability ? to keep it engaged ?).  Wire diameter ? Tight ?
Guidance / suggestions appreciated.
Thanks !!! 😉

@TrainBub posted:

This Looks like a next step for me ….. and hopefully a good solution. Further away from the rails is what is needed.
Are right angle bends enough or do you recommend a “U” shaped bend (stability ? to keep it engaged ?).  Wire diameter ? Tight ?
Guidance / suggestions appreciated.
Thanks !!! 😉

I'd actually bend them a bit different.

These won't pop out, you just thread them in, with the ground throw loose, then screw it down in position, the rod is there to stay.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'd actually bend them a bit different.

These won't pop out, you just thread them in, with the ground throw loose, then screw it down in position, the rod is there to stay.

I like this A Lot !!!!    
THANKS  John !!! 😜

We look forward to success stories.