A Source for Headlight Lenses?

i use to cut all my lenses from glass slide cover glass.  never had a problem.

Bob, I would love to know how you cut circles. I just mastered straight cuts :-) Dan

Ditto

When I subscribed to CTT there was an ad every month for "optical quality focused replacement lenses", or some such.  If that would suit your purpose, perhaps a current subscriber could chime in.

I have also been looking for some for my SW1. It had a flat lens also. Would like to hear more about how to cut one also.

You may try diamond core bits. They come in various diameters for granite,glass and other hard materials. Do a Google search to find them. You can use thin pvc or pet sheet plastic and use a piece of brass tubing that is sharpened and notched which you place in a drill press to cut out your little discs.

Frank

I recall a company called MV Lenses. I purchased some lenses from them some years ago. They were O Scale as well. Try Walthers under HO.

MV are concave, he needs flat. I use a lot of MV and have a good source. Walthers is out of most.

If you have a standard size opening, try an optical flat:

 

http://www.edmundoptics.com/op...t-glass-windows/3525

A cheap and easy way to make lenes:

To make lenses simply take clear styrene, any thickness you wish, and put masking tape on both sides so that you may draw on the tape.  Place a dot at center where you're going to cut lens.  Now draw a line through the dot equal to the lens diameter with the dot as the center of the line. On each end of the line, now place a mark perpendicular to the lines to show the outside diameter of the circle.  Continue drawing the lines through the dot with perpendicular marks on each end of each line as you rotate the lines.  Now with exacto knife, cut the perpendicular lines and your result will be a multigon.  Using a small file, round each of the edges so that it forms a circle.  The more lines you make the easier to cut the circle. Remove tape and glue lens to locomotive.   Stephen  

PSC has a flat glass- not a lense for this type of detail. It goes with steam engine headlights but I can't see any issue if using it for an F unit.

I made a primitive punch using a scrap block of aluminum and a cheap drill bit the same diameter as the desired lens.

 

Grind the shank (non-business end) of the drill so that it has a sharp corner and sits at a slight angle. Clamp the block of aluminum securely to the table of a drill press and drill a hole through the block. Do not unclamp the block.

 

Turn the drill around in the chuck so that the modified end is pointed down. Unless the drill is bent it will now be perfectly aligned with the drilled hole. Slip a sheet of 0.005" clear plastic window material on the top of the die and punch a few.

 

The edges will probably have a little bit of roughness which can be minimized with a file, and a black gasket simulated by running a black Sharpie brand marker around the edge.

 

Note that on this P&D F3 shell I first reamed out the openings to eliminate almost all of the inside shoulder that formerly held the cast plastic insert in place. The upper and lower headlight openings are different diameters on this model.

 

The upper Gyralite and lower headlights were scratch-built using aluminum, reground MV lenses, and 3mm LEDs.

 

 

Hope this was sufficiently clear.

Bob everything I'm trying to do with F units was inspired by you.  The treatment you gave that A&O F unit is nothing short of spectacular.  You set the standard!

I've used this method for many years though I take the drill and sand it to a smooth radius using carbide wet paper and then polish the end.  I also use mild steel rather than aluminum for the die to get a sharper edge. I wanted curved lenses. Bob's method should give a nice flat lens.

 

Pete

i took some pix of the way i do circles out of glass.

IF, anybody has any interest in my method i have extra glass, cutters (limited supply) and cutting pads available.  i can post pix if interested.

Bob, I would a cutter and the pad. Send email to me or my railfonts.com address. Thanks, Dan

oops sorry should have added price....$25.00 free postage

Bob Anson - could you contact me at k27bry@yahoo.com ?

          Thanks,

          Bryan Davies

Marker -

I finally found the reamer I made to open up the upper headlight on the P&D shell. A simple piece of K&S brass was milled with 4 sharp points to enlarge the upper opening while leaving a very subtle shelf to hold the flat outer "glass" in place. I wanted to do this carefully to avoid cracking the plastic shell in case a drill bit grabbed.

 

 

When the LED lights were installed I exposed a "night" shot of the locomotive with headlights and overhead reading lights on. The number boards are track powered so that another DCC function would be available for sound.

 

 

The "dashboard" and speed recorder can also be illuminated.

 

 

I'd like to see how you do this, I'm currently trying to figure out how to mount two LED's in a headlight for a MARS light.  I have the MARS light working great, just can't get it into a standard model headlight.

Bob

 

Following your instructions (sanding, etc), this was my first attempt at the gauge lighting.  Taking that picture was a whole issue in itself, but you are quite the photographer!

 

I'm going to print gauges on clear plastic for my second attempt.

 

 

 

 

 

We'll see how it comes out.

 

You brought up one of the things I wanted to know:

 

The number boards are track powered

 

I have worked out most of my lighting controls but I don't know if the number boards should be lit on a trailing A unit.  The way Atlas has the dummy A's wired, I would guess not.

 

Any help?

 

 

One more comment - I just went to the A&O website and clicked the forum.  It has been about a year since I visited the site. All I can say is the A&O guys do some of the best stuff I have ever seen.  All those reading this owe it to themselves to take a look at: http://www.aorailroad.com/phpB...f=3&p=1166#p1166

 

There is a lot of great info and ideas there.

Marker -

 

Thanks for the kind words. And your F-unit looks great.

I have worked out most of my lighting controls but I don't know if the number boards should be lit on a trailing A unit.  The way Atlas has the dummy A's wired, I would guess not.

 

Any help?

Great question!

 

Looking through my photo collection I see some modern trains with more than one set of number board lights illuminated. If I'm correct the current GCOR only calls for the number boards of the unit under which the train operates to be illuminated. A friend remembers all units with lighted number boards on the PRR/PC when he was growing up. If I get any more information I'll pass it along.

 

Meanwhile, since I prefer the appearance during night operations, I think I will continue to illuminate them all on these 1960's-era units.

Thanks Bob, not needing to control the lighting for the number board is very helpful.

OK, so I bought Bob's scribe and pad. One my first try using his suggestions I have a 6" scale round lens. I just used a washer as a guide

 

So now it's on to make templates for other cutouts.

 

I found several size PUNCHES on eBay.

Then you can cut into various thicknesses

Hello Bob,

 

Can you post how I can reach you. Apparently I can't email you directly from this site. I'd like to order one of your kits it they are still available. I need to replace some steam engine door glass and make some diesel headlights.

 

Thanks,

 

Butch

 

I found these by Googling round microscope slip covers.  If you need 5mm or 8mm you're set,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

Round Cover Slips – German Glass

These coverglass which are made from German glass can be used for growing and culturing cells that normally have poor adhesion to plastic or regular glass surfaces. The 5mm size will fit inside the 96 well plates and still have enough room to pick up from the bottom of the well with forceps. The 8 mm size fits inside the 24 well plates. Available with #1.5 (0.16 – 0.19 mm) thickness. Packaged in convenience size: 100 per box

Catalog #	Dia.	Thickness	Pieces/box	Pack	Price
72296-05	5 mm	#1.5 Thickness	100	box	48.00	Add to Cart
72296-08	8 mm	#1.5 Thickness	100	box	28.00	Add to Cart

 

Peter

Thanks Peter,

 

Until Yours and Johns post I didn't realize round slide covers of this size were available commercially. The nice thing about the company you mentioned is they have 8mm diameter which I think will be close to E & F unit headlight openings. Haven't had a chance to measure one of my Covered Wagons yet but looking at a ruler 8mm seems to be just about right, while the 5mm should work great for GP's and SD's. 

 

Thanks for posting!

 

Butch

If someone buys 100 of these, maybe they'll show up for sale in smaller lots.   I don't think I want 100 of them, but five I'd be interested in.

 

Yeah, 100 is a lifetime supply but at $28 per 100 I'm willing to miss all the fun of cutting my own. And, I suppose a fellow could sell smaller quantities online if he wanted too or share them with friends. I just think it's a great option if you don't want to roll your own.  

 

Butch

The 5mm ones are $48/100.

 

Yes, they are, but I was only interested in the 8mm size.  But, cutting a perfect 5mm circle would be tough to do and I guess that's why they charge more for the smaller lens. Dan did a really nice job on his. I ordered one of Bob's kits so I'll try it. Definitely need to sell a couple of the smaller ones to your buddies. 

 

Butch 

Butch, I took a flier and found it.  I seem to remember back to the 50's that my Gilbert microscope set had round slip covers!?

 

Peter